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MCBS523R2WW General Electric Range - Instructions

All Instructions for the MCBS523R2WW
1 - 15 of 258

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Burner bowls needed replacement
488 of 507 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Tom from North Prairie, WI
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
Very easy repair, Pulled burner coil out, removed old burner bowl. Put in new burner bowl, plugged burner coil back in... easy as 1,2,3
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Burner Bowl Needed Replaced
524 of 693 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Stephen from Knoxville, TN
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
Removed burner element and put in bowl
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Lower bake Element would not heat.
229 of 262 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Ronald from Nassau, NY
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers
First I slid the stove out and unpluged it, then removed two screws,slid out element, disconected two wires, slid new element in to place, pluged two wires in ,put into place and installed two screws, pluged stove back in, and turned on to try. Works perfect.
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The stove's bowl were burned and a mess.
219 of 438 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Martin from Tewksbury, MA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
Pulled out burner and put new bowls in. Looks like a new stove!
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Replaced old drip bowls
217 of 438 people found this instruction helpful.
  • John from Eowell, OH
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Took 5 minutes to replace the 4 bowls. Ordered the bowls one day & they arrived the next day All went perfect.
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The switches failed on both front burners.
97 of 108 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Marc from Columbia, NJ
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Remove nobs from both switches.
Pull out the range (the hardest part).
REMOVE THE POWER PLUG FROM THE WALL
Remove 7 screws with nut driver and take off upper back panel.
Remove 2 phillips screws from front, they hold the switch brackets.
The new switches don't fit in the bracket so discard the bracket keeping the screws.
Removing 1 wire at a time from the old switch transfer to the new noting the letter/number ie "H1 P1" combos they are all there just not in the same places on the new switch.
When wiring is complete, using the bracket ,screws from the front screw on the switches.
Replace the back panel with 7 screws.
In my case the old nobs did not fit the shafts of the new switches. I found some at the local hardware store. I bought 4 for $0.29 each! I expect to be replacing the other burner switches shortly.
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Broken heating element
75 of 93 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Paul from anna, TX
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers
1)Turn off power to stove
2)remove 2 bolts holding heating element
3)pull element out of the back of the oven about 8" so that the wire connects is visable
4)pull wire clips off of heating element and remove element from the oven
5)put wire clips on the new heating element
6)push new heating element back into the holes in the back of the oven
7)screw botls back into the oven holding the heating element in place
8)Turn power back on
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oven overheat would not shut off
93 of 165 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Alan from Hammondsville, OH
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
r&r thermostat
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terminal block melted
56 of 77 people found this instruction helpful.
  • jonathan from willow springs, IL
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
The existing terminal block on my Ge oven/Range had melted due to a loose wire causing sparking and starting the plastic casing of the terminal block on fire and melting it, Part select made the part easy to find and had it at my house in 2 days. All I had to do was remove six screws to take the back sheet metal cover off of the oven. U nscrew the terminal connections remove two mounting screws that held the terminal on to the oven body. This was a little trickier than it should have been because the melted plastic had reformed making it very hard to access the mounting screws. i then mounted the new piece and plugged the oven in, it took 15 minutes and was very easy. definitely saved me at-least a $100 for the service call i would have made if finding the part wasn't so convenient
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Burner was constantly at high heat
45 of 50 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Rick from Avon Park, FL
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
I removed the rear cover from the stove then removed the knob and two screws on the front panel that hold the control in place. I then took the wires off the old control one at a time and placed them on the new control. Then I placed the control in position and tightened the two screws on the front panel, replaced the knob and screwed t he back panel in place.
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when cooking on the 8" burner it would randomly go high heat.
30 of 33 people found this instruction helpful.
  • kevin from crossroads, TX
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
first slide out range from wall and unplug it. then remove the rear panel, it is about 6 or 8 1/4" screws. remove the selector knob on the front of range and then remove the two philips head screws. this is how you remove the burner controller. hold the new controller next to the od one and one by one take the wires off the old one and pu t them on the new one. re-assemble and you are good to go.
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Surface element indicator remained on.
25 of 29 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Ed from Plymouth, MA
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
The known problem: a short occured between the surface element and the INF switch. After replacing the wire between the surface element and INF switch. The surface indicator light remained on - indicating a power surge/spike. Prior to removing the old INF switch I disconnected the wires from the old switch one at a time and plugged eac h into the new switch terminals. Then I removed the knob from the front of the control panel and the 2 screws holding the old INF switch in place. Removed the old switch and replaced it with the new switch. Reinstalling the 2 screws and the knob. Surface indicator light was no longer illuminated and surface element works fine.
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Broiler burnt out.
20 of 24 people found this instruction helpful.
  • ellen from centennial, CO
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
Removed screws using nut driver. Pulled element way forward until wires came through. Pondered how to detach burned out element from wires. Chickened out, call neighbor who grasped things firmly with two hands and pulled. Old element came loose. Popped in new element. Cursed the screws that wouldn't align with holes to support element; fi nally did it. Screwed element plate in place. Put oven door back on, plugged it in and turned it on hoping that we hadn't reversed the wires. Job accomplished.
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Oven Element had burned out
18 of 20 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jeanette from Salem, IA
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
My husband did it, we unplugged the stove first then he removed the damaged element replaced it with the new plugged it back in and we were in buisness. I like that this was an acutual part for my stove(not some universal thing) and it arrived very quickly.
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Oven rack missing when I purchased the house
18 of 28 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Patricia from Houston, TX
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
I was very pleased with how quickly the new oven rack arrived and it was a perfect fit. Thanks.
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All Instructions for the MCBS523R2WW
1 - 15 of 258