LW6001W2 Amana Washer - Instructions

Removed front panel; loosened hose clamp at pump; removed existing drain hose. Easy part.
Installed new hose at pump and tightened hose clamp. Somewhat difficult.
1. Your hose design should be solid flexible rubber hose instead of corrugated type. Had rough time snaking hose to the pump.
2. Your future designs should have r ... Read more ubber hose or hard piping to the exit hole on the back panel and terminated in a male fitting, then connect flexible hose from fitting to drain line. Similar to "hot & cold " water connections.
3. For future customers- care should be taken installing the "black" portion ; it kinked on me 2 or 3 times because you have to keep rotating the entire hose to keep the "black" portion straight.

Door switch was very easy to replace as it simply snaps in for the outside and you just clip on the two control wires that already have clips on them.

All you need for a Maytag is a snub nose Philips screw driver. The screws on the front panel are at the bottom angled down, so a regular length Phillip's won't work. Just unscrew the 2 screws, then lift the panel up and out. Careful not to pull out too far, there are 2 wires attached to the switch. The replacement switch is NOT an ... Read more exact copy of the old one. My Maytag is over 30 years old and it only had 2 prongs on the switch. The new one has 3. Don't let that throw you. It is the same size. Just attach, 1 wire to the bronze connector & the other to the silver. Push the switch into the door opening, re-attach the door. Total time 20 minutes. Saved well over $100 in a service call. Anyone with an IQ above freezing can do it.

took the drive belt to the pump off then put the belt for the drum on .then put the belt for pump back on. basickly this unit is one of the easist to work on

Per instructions I printed off online: took off door, then the front panel. Pulled out the old switch/button, connected the new switch/button, made sure the new button was working; put the panel back on then the door and DONE!

Unplugged machine from wall, disconnected supply hosesand removed drain pipe from drain. Removed pump/motor assy located in the front of the machine. Replaced pump and belt. Be carefule how you route the belt. Upon inspection before powering up I noticed I ran the belt wrong and it was rubbing on one of the pumps plastice screw housing. H ... Read more ad to disassemble, re-route belt and re-assemble. Powered machine up and it worked great.

simple as removing front panel from washer held on by two screws and the hose was right their. Took a few minutes to disconnect it from the pump and pull it out through the rear, then feed the replacement in and reverse the process. Piece of cake. Thank you.

I used your great video for pointers as to what to do. I took off the front, raised the top, vacuumed the whole thing up, that took quite a while. Took out the drum. Did more cleaning. Then took off the old retaining rings with retaining ring pliers, took off the old drum rollers and support. Replaced with new roller supports, washer, rol ... Read more ler, washer and retaining rings. Then I replaced the belt. Tested it and turned the wrong way and it came off. Replaced and tested it again and I don't know why but it came off. Replaced the belt again, tested fine. Then I replaced the felt pads and glides, they were worn. I ended up asking my husband to help hold the drum so I could get the front back on. Replaced front and door. Tried the dryer. Works great AND very, very little noise. Note: when taking the wiring off the light and the door switch, I took photo's of those places with my cell phone and had them to look at to make sure the wiring was correct.

Part received was correct (5 days ARO). Removed motor assy from unit (left wires connected). Found drive belt was also worn out & obtained a new one locally. Seperated old pump from rusted motor shaft using 2 screwdrivers. Had to use a file to lightly "polish" rust off motor shaft to install new pump. On-line parts diagram helpful i ... Read more n getting belt properly alinged to idler pully. Machine now runs smoothly, dosn't leak and sound like new. Wife happy (me too)!

I disconnected the water supply line to washer and moved washer into open area. I removed the front panel of washer to gain access to drain hose. I removed hose and reinstalled new hose. I did turn the hose holder inside the washer as it allowed the old hose to rub against the housing support of the washer causing the hose to leak. I ... Read more was glad that I read the article that someone mentioned in their repair. The new hose was somewhat difficult to maneuver through the back of the washer and through the part that held the hose; otherwise, it was rather easy. Thanks for the feed back on your web page.

Taking the hub out was a promblem because, with a puller it did not come out. It broke off while pulling out we had to drill it
out had to brake off.You need a 1 1/2 inch deep socket with a impact wrench. It was a hassel but got done. I replaced the whole seal kit and it is still leaking it leaks from the bottom of the tub. It leaks ... Read more worse when it has a heavy load I dont know what to do.Need help.

1. unplug unit 2. remove front access plate 3. disconnect tension spring on drive belt 4. remove 4 motor mount screws 5. disconnect intake and return lines from pump using a pliers to decompress compression rings and sliding lines off. 6. Manipulate motor and loosen drive belt from bottom of tub and let it hang. 7. tilt motor bottom out e ... Read more xposing pump and remove 3 screws using TREX head driver and remove pump. 8. install new pump

This job was extremely simple. First I unplugged the washer and disconnected the water supply lines. Then I removed the top of the washer control panel (2 hex screws) and then the back side of the control panel (3 Phillips screws). The front of the control panel then pivots forward towards the washer lid, giving easy access to the time ... Read more r assembly. Unfastened old timer assembly (2 hex screws). Unscrewed timer knob on the front of the control panel, and pried off the plastic disc beneath that knob, thus freeing the timer knob post so I could pull it through the front panel for removal. Last I simply unplugged the jumble of wires that go into the timer, since they all conveniently come together in one plug. Reversed all of these steps to install the new timer assembly. Total time: about 45 min.

Very easy repair. Removed the lower front panel of the washing machine (two screws) with nutdriver.

Removed hose clamp with pliers. Removed hose from machine. Replaced hose and ran thru a full cycle to check for leaks.

No leaks, back in business in under an hour. This time includes going out to garage and gather the ... Read more two tools needed for the job and cleaning up the water that came out of the hose during the removal process.

Rear panel has to be removed to access part. Removing controls top of machine, two screws lower left and right, will make back panel removal easier. Back panel hangs on 2brackets,protruding thru the panel, near the top, and 3 screws across the bottem. You will also have to remove the drain pass thru connecting the internal drain hose to t ... Read more he external drain hose. The replacement part does not have matching screw mount holes to those on the rear panel. Their is a square punch out with a tab on the replacement which can be used for the top mount screw. Use a drill and bit to round the hole. Mount replacement then drill a hole in the replacement for the the lower mount screw. 1 day service and works like new.