LSE7806AE* Maytag Washer - Instructions

The washing machine would only fill with cold water. This could be a problem with the controls, the wiring or the valve where the external hoses connect. Various tests, which only those with the proper skills & equipment should perform, revealed that the water valve hot side was not opening. UNPLUG the washing machine before doing any ... Read more work and especially before opening any access panels. NOTE: Label all fasteners & other connections you remove so you know where they should go back. WITH the Washing Machine UNPLUGGED from the wall outlet, I unscrewed the external hot & cold hoses (make sure the water is turned off first!). I unscrewed the panel that holds the valve in a recess in the back of the machine. On this machine, the panel pulls out of the back with the valve attached to it. So I pulled the panel/valve assembly out of the recess and disconnected its electrical connectors (double-check the washing machine is unplugged before doing this). I also disconnected the internal hose that leads from the valve. Finally, I detached the valve from the panel. Installation is the reverse of removal, although it is a good idea to use a new spring clip or hose clamp, whichever you have, to attach the internal hose to your new valve. Once the valve assembly is properly installed, connect your external hoses, double-checking for hot & cold sides carefully, turn the water on and check for leaks. When all that is ok, plug the washer in and test it.

I shut off the water feeds and unplugged the washing machine.

I removed the two screws on the bottom panel and lifted it off.

I then lifted the bottom corners of the front plate, pulling out and raising it at about a 45 degree angle, releasing the spring clips which held the top of the front plate to the top of the ... Read more washing machine and set it aside.

I then located and removed the screws located underneath the top, one in each, of the undersides, of the front corners.

I used duct tape to tape the washing machine lid to the top so that it would not flop open and get damaged as I lifted the top on it's hinges.

I saw, at this point that I needed to open the control panel.

I set the top back down.

On top of the control panel cabinet there are four screws, two on each side. I removed the inner screw from each side and lifted out the control panel and set it down with all it's wires intact.

You will see a hex head screw that is holding the funnel of the water injector in place, I removed it with a nut driver and then reassembled the control panel so that nothing would get damaged as I, once again lifted the top and let it rest open on it's hinges.

I used a long needle nose pliers to squeeze open the hose clamp and loosen and remove the hose so that the complete water injector assembly was free and set it aside.

At this point, I connected the hose of the new unit to it's connector and set the clamp, lowered the top, re-opened the control panel and holding the water injector funnel in place by reaching through the lid I screwed it back into place. From there it was only reversing the steps to reassemble the cabinet.

I was concerned about reinstalling the front panel on it's spring clips but found it to be no problem. I held the front panel at the angle it was in when it popped loose, with the clips resting against the lip of the top and lowered the bottom into place, it just snapped back into place.

After making sure the lines and screens are clean, and there is good water flow thru the hoses to the valves, and there is power to the valve solenoids, (which can be detected by setting to fill and pulling out on the start knob), and hearing a "click" at the valve, you can summize that the valve is weak, or partially blocked internally.< ... Read more br /> Replace the valve by unpluging the power cord to the machine. Remove the hoses. Remove the screw that attaches the valve mounting plate. Pull the plate and valve out and remove the screw that attaches the valve to the plate. Unplug the wires from the solenoides,[IMPORTANT] noting which wires go to each valve. Remove the rubber hose on top of the valve by squeezing the hose clamp with a pair of pliers, and sliding the clamp up the hose. Now you can pull the hose off. Install the new valve in the reverse order.

1. Unplug power to the washer.
2. Remove 2 screws from bottom front panel on either side. Panel then rotates out and unhooks at the top. Remove front panel
3. Remove bolts from underneath the top front on both sides using a socket.
4. Rotate the top upward to provide space to see and work.
5. From the back of the wash ... Read more er, remove 4 bolts using a socket around the drain tube at the upper left.
6. From the front, the siphon valve can be removed from the inside upper right.
7. From the front, unscrew the clamp holding the drain hose on the water pump housing at the bottom right front and remove the hose. Be prepared for water to drain from the hose. Remove hose and siphon valve together and discard.
8. Install new hose on new siphon valve and screw new clamp tight. Make sure the rubber ring is inserted properly on the new valve (See old valve for reference)
9. Holding the siphon valve in place, use a socket and re-attach the 4 bolts around the drain tube at the back of the washer.
10. From the front, insert the opposite end of the new hose to the water pump at the lower right front and screw the circle clamp tight. Note: Re-use existing clamp.
11. Rotate the top back down into normal position.
12. Plug the power back in and run a short cycle and watch for leaks.
13. If no leaks, re-attach bolts for the top with a socket.
14. Re-attach front panel with 2 screws. Done.

After first unplugging the washer and shutting off the water to the washer I slid the washer away from the wall. It was a tight cramped space and difficult to get behind it. Most of the time replacing the water inlet valve was spent getting into and out of the work area to get tools and cleaning up a few years of dirt under the washer and ... Read more water leaking from the hoses after they were removed. The valve removal and re-installation of the new one was pretty straightforward.Just a 3 screws 2 electrical connectors and three hoses. The water inlet hoses were frozen on the old valve and required a wrench to free. I also needed to replace the hose washers which fortunately I had as spares for my garden hoses. I replaced the solenoid leads directly from the old to new valve so as not to get that wrong. Removing the outlet hose clamp was tricky- I needed a fat wrench to depress all the tines and slip it off. Fortunately I was able to reuse it. After securing the mounting screws and tightening the inlet hoses with a wrench just until I met some resistance, I turned the power and water back on and prayed there were no leaks. None- back in business.

Cleaned up a wet utility room floor!

Unplugged power cord to the machine and turned off hot and cold water at the stop valves.
Removed the top machine screw that holds the metal panel with the valve attached (on the rear of the machine where hoses attach), removed it from the machine with valve and hoses attached.
D ... Read more isconnected both water hoses at the old valve, together with the 1/2" hose to the machine. Mark hot and cold positions.
Moved the electrical contacts one-by-one to the new valve.
Changed the old valve for the new valve (one screw attaches to plate).
Connected the inlet hoses and 1/2" hose to the new valve, making sure hot/cold on correct positions.
Replaced plate in the machine and secured with the machine screw.

*** NO MORE WADING SINCE REPAIR *****

The trouble-shooting section on this website described the above problem and suggested that the proper course of action was to replace the water inlet valve, which I ordered and replaced. Replacement of this part was quick and easy.

Turned off water supply and disconnected hoses. Removed rear cover where water valve was located. Marked and unplugged wires to valve along with interior hose connected to valve. Unscrewed two screws holding valve to rear cover. Installed new valve with all the above procedures in reverse. Very easy repair that saved us slot of money in s ... Read more ervice call fees!

I went to a major appliance part outlet in my area...they told me that they didn't make the parts in the USA anymore. I found your website, ordered the parts, installed them in less than 15 minutes and now the washer works great. I would recommend your website to anyone... thank you

I turned off the water at the main water inlet. I then removed the hose connections to the valve inlet. I removed the one screw on the plate pulling allowing me to pull the plate out from the washer body. I then removed the wires connected to the old valve placing them on the new valve (so not to be confused). I took off the small hose cl ... Read more amp attached to the valve. I removed the valve from the plate and attached the new valve placing the a new hose lamp on the hose (wires were already attached) screwed back to the plate in the washer body connecting the water lines and turned the water on at the main valve. I did have to run to the hardware store for the small hose clamp but that was my choice to replace the one that was existing. The washer now works like it is new.

Turn off water. Disconnect hoses from washer. Remove drain hose from plumbing drain in wall. Catch water from all three hoses in plastic tub. Remove two 5/15 machinve screws holding inlet valve cover/mount plate. Remove fill hose by compressing hose clamp ends with pliers. Remove electrical connections. Reverse to install. Easy as p ... Read more ie!

Unhooked H and C water lines. Removed cover plate with control valves. Pulled power wires off solenoid valves. Remove exit water hose clamp then hose. Put new valves on in reverse process. Checked washer through cycle to see it worked all OK. Had to make new mount ro install valves.

I first removed the 2 screws at the bottom of the front panel. The front panel then pulls up and off. I then removed 2 hex head screws with a small socket, which kept the top attached to the two side panels. I then lifted the top and kept it propped up. I removed the internal drain hose from the siphon break on the inside of the back pan ... Read more el. I removed the 4 screws on the back panel that keeps the siphon break in place. I removed it and screwed in the new one. I re-attached the drain hose to the new part. I partially filled the tub and watched it drain with the lid still upright. No more leaks. The rubber seal in the siphon break had rotted.

I initially could not figure out how to open the machine so I checked the internet for a repair manual. After getting it open I found the source of the problem. The siphon break was missing the diaphragm and was spitting water when the tub was draining. I did not know what a siphon break was or did. I am non mechanically inclined. So I s ... Read more ealed the top of the siphon break with a sandwich bag and a zip tie, put in a load and went to work. I now know what the siphon break does after it ran all day filling and draining for over 8 hrs. That is when I found this site, ordered the part and received it the next day as promised. It took about 10 minutes to put the part in and close the washer back up. It has been a week now and the garage is almost dry . HA , and my wife wanted a new washer ! This part and delivery was under $25. A new machine around $800 if I am lucky. The ability for me to be smug as long as she never finds out about the sandwich bag incident, PRICELESS !

Unscrew the hoses. Remove access panel. Unclip the 4 electrical wires. Undo the hose clamp on the top of valve and remove hose. Unscrew the one screw holding the valve in place. Remove valve. Reverse for installation.