LGH1642DS0 Electrolux Washer Dryer Combo - Instructions

This was one of the simpliest repairs I have ever done taking less than 5 minutes to complete. On the inner door I removed the two screws that hold the plastic catch in place. I then removed the broken catch and put the new catch in place. Finally I replaced the two screws that hold the catch in place and it was done.

1. Unplug unit.
2. Unscrew 2 nuts holding top in place in rear of unit using phillips head screwdriver.
3.Slide top back and remove.
4. Open door of washer and unscrew 2 screws holding in door lock unit.
5.Pull out unit from the top and install new unit reconnecting the 3 wire connections.

1. Unplug dryer from outlet
2. Using Lg. flat screwdriver, pry under the front edge of the top and release two spring tabs
3. Lift up top and tilt back out of your way
4. Unscrew two phillips scews on inside of front panel
5. Lift up and out the front panel. Two spring clips at bottom.
6. Rlease tension on drum be ... Read more lt at the motor. Access panel at rear of dryer.
7.Unscrew 3 screws from inside, center rear of drum.
8. Remove drum through the front of the dryer. You may have to spread the sides apart a little bit for it to fit
9. Lift up on the rear drum bearing to remove it from the bearing retainer. ( U shaped plastic socket)
10. unsrew 2 screws and remove the bearing retainer, ground ball. Ball retainer is on outside of dryer.
11. Vacuum everything--duct, blower, lint trap, ect.
12. Intall new bearing retainer and grounding ball, an assistant is helpful at this time, one to hold ball retainer on rear of dryer, one to screw it in from the inside
13. reassemble remainder of parts in reverse order.

removed 2 screws and removed top access cover. removed 2 screws and removed front access cover. removed 4 retaining pins (one with nammer and punch because it was stuck) connected lower ends of new shocks with plastic pins, extended each shock to slip fit and connected upper ends to wash tub mounts. Reinstalled panels. I wish I could sa ... Read more y that it all went well from there but......when the shocks broke, apparently the hit the motor took was enough to cause an electronic failure of the speed cycle control chip. Now Im waiting for that part.

well, i started at the top and worked my way down. by taking the top off, it gave me more room to get the dryer tub out. took the two screw`s out of the vented plate on the back of the machine to undo the belt. this is a stackable washer-dryer combo, so next i took off the white plate on front between washer & dryer. took off the control ... Read more panel, unpluged it, then took dryer door front off. then removed the two screw`s that hold that bracket on ,in the back of dryer, pulled the drum out & replaced the belt, but before replacing anything i took the shopvac to it , there was alot of lint in there.when replacing the Grounding Ball Clip & Grounding Ball, i took a one inch by two inch magnet and used it to hold the Grounding Ball & Clip in place so i could get the two screws started in the Drum Support Bearing & Bearing Bracket. after installing that i put the shaft in place & lined the dryer tub up with the 3 screw hole`s ,and boom, bang, pow...nothing to it. it`s easy...parts came very fast....Thx PartsSelect.com...i`ve told all my friend`s about PartsSelect

Door lock takes a beating due to flimsy washer door which does not align well and subsequently gets slammed each time which causes lock to malfunction telling the washer that it is not locked. Due to safety the washer will not go into the spin mode. Remove top lid (2 screws) open washer door and loosed the 2 screws holding the lock assemb ... Read more ly in place. Reach down into the washer and unsnap the 3 wire harnesses. Reverse to reinstall. Very easy.

Turned out drum brackets were corroded, so drum and shell-rear/brg and gasket needed replacing

1. Disconnect power and water lines
2. Remove rear and top panels
3. Remove control knobs, Assembly, soap dispenser, and Assembly cons frame/trim
4. Remove all screws from control panel mounting bracket (panel-cont ... Read more mtg wing bend), disconnect easy wires to get to so you can flip it on it's edge when the time comes - no need to remove completely
5. Disconnect hoses running to shell-rear/brg
6. Remove the motor (motor-Sole) and belt
7. Place foam pad and/or jack with pad on it underneath shell (it's gonna be very heavy when you remove it - two men or a jack required)
8. Lift and remove the two spring/sleeves that support the shell.
9. Remove two level-shocks below shell or at a minimum remove one of the pins on each
10. Remove Spring boot from bellow
11. Lower and remove entire shell
12. Remove the weight, upper back from the rear shell and the counterweights from the front shell (can leave front weights if you want to, but probably easier to work with without them on. Note: be careful, these all crack/chip very easily)
13. Remove the screws that hold the rear shell to the front shell
14. Remove the pulley screw and pulley (may take a little wiggling or tapping with rubber mallet to loosen)
15. Separate the rear shell from front shell.
16. Remove the drum from the rear shell (may also require some wiggkling/tapping with rubber mallet)

Note: I did this from memory, so probably missed some steps - just use your parts manual to ensure you know what you're looking at and it will help you through the process.

Good luck. I figure I saved about $700 to $1200 since the estimated repair costs were so high, I would have simply had to buy a new washer.

After turning off water, disconnecting power, and sucking water out of the tub and drain hose with a shop vac, I removed the front kick panel (took out two sheet metal screws). Then I removed two mounting screws from the pump assembly, and disconnected two hose clamps (inlet and outlet hoses) with a pair of pliers. Very simple, very easy ... Read more . The pain in the fanny came when I tried to reattach the hoses. The hose clamps apparently require either a special tool or a technique I'm not familiar with. I finally tossed them and purchased two standard screw and band hose clamps which made the final connections a breeze. The surprise came when I found that the motor had seized because of a pair of tweezers that had somehow worked into the motor impeller. Free of tweezers and coins, the new motor works great! To quote another one of your contributors: wife happy!

The top of the dryer was easily removed by prying the front up with a screwdriver then tipping it back and off of the mounting brackets. Then the front of the dryer was removed by unscrewing a single screw on each side that held the front to the side panels then pulling the front away from the dryer. Once the front was off, the coils we ... Read more re easily accessible on the bottom left side. A metal bracket held the coils on and was somewhat tough to get the two screws removed on it as they were stuck, but once they were removed the coils easily came out and I was able to replace them in minutes. The whole job took 15-20 minutes and I now have a dryer that heats through the entire drying cycle.

Using a screw driver I removed the spring loaded band from around the rubber boot inside the door. You only need to remove the band and then pull the boot from the bottom around to the side. You do not need to fully remove boot. Unscrew locking mechanism. Slide out to be able to see connections. Remove connections. Replace mechanism, r ... Read more eattaching connections into appropriate spots. Replace mechanism and rescrew in. Replace rubber boot by pulling gently out and working rubber V of boot under the metal slot. Once the boot is replaced, replace the metal band making sure the spring is at the bottom of the boot. Wahlah!!! Washer is working perfectly.

First I removed the top panel held by four screws at rear of panel, pulling the panel foward and up. Then disconnected the power and water connections. Then I removed the two screws holding the flow valve to the washer rear panel,pulled the valve foward ,removed the two electric connectors, pinched the water clamp with pliers and remo ... Read more ved the water connection to the valve. Then replaced with the new valve followed the above steps in reverse order, finishing up by re placing the water connections and power. Then checked fo proper replacenent and leaks before replacing top panel.

Remove power
Remove water connections
Pull out washer to have sufficient room to access the back and the top.
Removed the top panel (4 screws at top- back)
Removed the back panel (a lot of screws)
Removed small metal retainer strip on top edge over broken spring
Removed broken spring, hung top of new one.
... Read more />Pulled up tub to as I stretched out the spring to mount spring to tub
From the back, unplug and remove 2 crews holding the electronic motor control unit from lower left

For both shocks:
This was the most "difficult" part - locate the 2 plastic retainer pins holding the shock, locate the tooth (or tab) holding the pin in place and push the tab in (I had to use some leverage - its stiff plastic covered in grease - a spare screwdriver handle helps to push the tab down).

After pins are removed, shock just pulls out (weight of the tub handled by the suspension springs).

Replace with new shocks (1 pack has a pair), replace pins.

Reinstall motor control unit.

Reassemble frame. reattach water supply lines.

I had to plug in the washer, activate a cycle, then unplug/plug in the washer again.

It helps to have a screwdriver attachment for a variable speed drill to handle all of the screws.

All told - about 45 minutes, most of this spent on removing the pins.

For the glide, I want to advise people that to replace the entire glide you need to order two front drum glide parts as each is only half.

First, unplug the dryer. Then, open the top so that you can get access to the work area. On each side of the inside front, there is a screw that connects the front panel to the side panels ... Read more . Unscrew those screws and pull the front panel until it disconnects from the side panels. Be careful as there are wires that are secured to the bottom of the top inside lip of the front panel. One set of wires goes to the light bulb in the dryer door. You don't need to disconnect the wires, but be sure you don't damage the wires by pulling the front panel too far away from the dryer.

Once you have the front panel out of the way, you can see the front drum glide. In my case, one half was loose as the plastic plugs that pop into recesses to hold the glide in place had broken off. Remove the damaged glide section and replace it with the new section, popping the plastic plugs into the recesses. Don't be afraid to slap the glide to lock the plugs in place.

For the felt, I cut the part of the old felt that was pulling away from the front panel. I then used a flat-head screwdriver and wire brush to remove as much of the old adhesive as I could. Then, using the high-heat adhesive that came with the new felt, I put a generous amount on the front panel where the felt needed to go. I used a toothpick to spread the adhesive to get maximum area coverage. I let it set for a minute or two, and then placed the new felt. I used small clamps to keep the felt in place until the adhesive had time to bond. I only kept the clamps in place for 10 minutes.

Once I removed the clamps, I let the felt continue to adhere to the front panel for 24 hours before reassembling the dryer. Again, be careful of the wires connected to the front panel as it appears very easy for them to be pinched or cut when putting the front panel back in place.

When the dryer was reassembled, I plugged it back in and have had no more troubles.

The striker is really easy to replace. Remove 2 #3 phillips screws, replace the striker part, and tighten the screws.

It got more complicated when too many striker tips broke off inside the latch assembly and prevented the tip of the new striker from going inside. To get at the latch assembly, I had to remove the big rubber g ... Read more asket that connects the drum to the frame of the machine. I removed this at the drum end. Big mistake! It took two of us to get the gasket back onto the drum, and I had to take the frame end of the gasket off anyway. That end is a lot easier to put back on. Anyway, I finally got to the latch assembly, which attaches to the machine with two screws. It has 3 connectors and the housing is a grey plastic clamshell that latches in 3 places. It came apart and parts came out. Jamming the latches open and very gently prying the clamshell open may let you escape the small parts barrage. Once I got everything back together, it all worked.

Unfortunately, the story doesn't end there. This machine has broken 4 strikers. They break during the wash cycle. Taking a cue from a previous DIY description on this site, I took the hinge apart. It looks like there is a part missing, because there isn't anything that keeps the door aligned with the rest of the machine. The door drops down as low as it can go on the hinge pin and the plastic of the door frame rides directly on the arm of the hinge part. I've shimmed it up about 3/16" temporarily, and it seems to work, but I can't escape the idea that I shouldn't have to do this...

I removed the broken door catch, which consisted of removing two screws, making it a snap to do, all you needed was a screw driver, and replaced it with the new one using the same screws, This took about 5 mins. to do and was very simple. Turning the machine into a working washer again. : )
After looking all over for the part,and no ... Read more t finding it I was thrilled when you carried the part. Even though the machine is old, it works great. Thank you for the selection of all the parts you carry and how you make it so easy for us to find what we need. , and having it in stock, which was mailed right away, so I could replace the catch and have the washer back in use in less than a week. Thank you