This is a 120 volt defrost timer manufactured for refrigerators. The defrost timer manages the automatic defrost systemin the unit. It acts like a clock by switching between activating the cooling cycle and the defrost heater to maintain the set thermostat temperature, preventing the unit from being too warm or cold. The defrost timer may...Read more need to be replaced if the fridge will not maintain its temperature or has frost buildup. Depending on the model, it could be located on the rear panel or ceiling of the fresh food compartment. Be sure to disconnect power to the refrigerator before replacing this part.
This door gasket, also known as a door seal, is sourced from the original equipment manufacturer for use in refrigerators and freezers. It is a flexible rubber strip that runs along the edge of the appliance door. It creates an airtight seal between the door and cabinet to prevent cold air from escaping, and warm air from entering the ref...Read morerigerator, to ensure that the temperature in the appliance remains constant. Over time, the door gasket can lose its elasticity or tear. In this case, you will likely notice frost build-up, increased noise, and inconsistent temperatures. Peel the faulty gasket off the refrigerator frame and remove any debris or residue on the surface. Carefully place the new seal along the edge of the door and press it firmly into place. Secure it with the appropriate fasteners and close the door to verify that there are no gaps between the door and cabinet.
This part helps maintain a constant temperature within the appliance. The temperature control thermostat regulates the temperature inside the refrigerator. It turns on and shuts off the compressor as needed to maintain the set temperature.
This evaporator fan blade is a genuine OEM part that is sourced directly from the manufacturer. The evaporator fan blade circulates air through the refrigerator to control the amount of cold air goes that goes to internal compartments of the unit. It may need to be replaced if the fridge is noisy or not cold enough. This part is made of p...Read morelastic and is sold individually. It will be necessary to disconnect power to the refrigerator and empty the freezer compartment of the refrigerator. The tools needed to complete this repair are a 1/4 inch nut driver and a pair of needle nose pliers.
This evaporator fan motor is 115V. If you notice that your freezer is noisy or is too warm, you may need to replace the evaporator fan motor. This package comes with the evaporator fan motor itself, as well as a wire harness. The evaporator fan motor is in the back of the freezer, so you will need to remove your freezer shelves and the ba...Read moreck panel before you can access it. The function of the evaporator fan motor is to circulate air over the coils. The coils convert the heat into cool air, which is then circulated. Be sure to remove the power source from the freezer before you begin this repair.
Sold individually.
This is a genuine part. The handle mounting shoulder screw (no.10 ab) is made for use with many refrigerators. The metal screw helps to fasten the handle assembly to the outer door panel. The handle mounting shoulder screw is sold individually. For the repair, you will need a pair of pliers.
This is an LED light for a variety of refrigerator models. This 3.8W LED light is used to shine and adequately light the contents of your refrigerator when you open its door. If your current light is significantly dimmer than normal, or simply not working anymore, it will need to be replaced. To replace this bulb, unplug your fridge momen...Read moretarily, and then simply unthread the old one and screw in the new one. This bulb is sold individually and does not come with any other parts.
This part could be found underneath a fridge, dryer, or freezer. The original foot may be cracked, broken, or perhaps missing altogether. If you notice the appliance is uneven to the floor or wobbling, it may indicate that the levelling foot needs to be replaced. You will need pliers and a block of wood to perform this task. There will be...Read more one adjustable foot found in the package. Lift the dryer and place the wood to keep it propped up. You may need to use the pliers to remove the old foot. Screw the new foot into place using your hand. Once the new leveling foot is in place, lift the appliance and remove the block. Test the machine out to ensure it is now sitting level.
This genuine OEM hinge mounting screw is designed for use in Frigidaire and Electrolux refrigerators, providing a secure and reliable way to fasten door hinges to the cabinet. Built with a durable hex washer head and standard threading, it helps restore proper door alignment and maintain a tight seal to prevent cold air loss. Ideal for re...Read moreplacing worn, stripped, or corroded hardware, this heavy-duty screw ensures long-lasting stability and dependable everyday performance.
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Greg - For model number LFUH17F2NW0
January 5, 2023
Nine year old Frigidaire upright freezer two months ago started running a lot and inside temperature was -20F with the thermostat set at #2. Two weeks ago reset thermostat to .5 ( almost off) and temperature went to -10F. Now the unit runs most of the time. Presently it runs for 20 twenty minutes or so, shuts down for 15 secs., turns back on with a fan on, 10 secs later I hear a click sound and hear the compressor go on. At this point interior fan is on as well as the compressor. It currently runs this way and I am concerned it is running too much. The freezer is located in my garage with a room temperature at 75F as I live in central Florida. Thanks for any help.
Hello Greg, Thank you for the question. This could be an indication the Defrost Thermostat located on the Defrost heater is faulty and may need to be tested. The best way to do this is to remove the thermostat from the refrigerator so you can control the temperature of the sensor. You can let the sensor warm up to room temperature. With the sensor warmed up to room temperature the sensor should read approximately 6.2K Ohms at 68°F. With the thermistor submerged is a glass full of ice water, the sensor should be very close to 32°F which should read approximately 16.3K Ohms. If the values that you are getting are far off from these readings, then the sensor is bad and should be replaced. We hope this helps!
What causes water to come out of the bottom of the freezer
Hi Astor, thank you for reaching out. According to our research, we suggest you check the defrost drain tube which might be clogged due to ice buildup on the drain tube, which then melts, causing an overflow of water into the bottom of the freezer. You need to check the defrost heater, part number PS10060305, and the defrost aluminium heater strap, part number PS473194, and position the aluminium heating strap into the drain tube to fix this issue. We hope this solves your problem!
My upright freezer builds up frost inside of door.anything to do before replacing door seal?
Hello Susan, thank you for your question. We have researched your model and found that the issue is probably with the Door Gasket, part number PS11770644. If that does not take care of the issue, then the problem is most likely to be related to the Defrost Timer, part number PS12585793. If you need help placing an order for it, please feel free to give us a call. We look forward to hearing from you!
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Ice and frost were forming in a frost free freezer
78 of 101 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
Louise from Ocala, FL
Easy
1- 2 hours
The old gasket was obviously gapping, partially from age and partially from damage during a move. To make the repair, I loosened the screws that are under the gasket and hold it in, but did not remove them. Once all were loose, I removed the old gasket, then starting at the top, ran a thin bead of food grade RTV under the portion of the
... Read more door that captures the gasket. I put the sealant on that edge only, then carefully worked one of the short edges of the gasket under the plastic and tightened all but the corner screws. I then ran the RTV down the inside of the hinge side of the door and repeated the process, this time tightening the top screw and the hinge side screw at the top, but leaving the bottom most screw loose. I repeated the process on the opening side of the door. The bottom was the hardest because the gasket seemed just a little long and it was hard to get the RTV up and behind the door portion, but after a couple tried I got a good bead of sealant then slid the gasket under the door capture and tightened all the remaining screws. After closing the door, it was obvious that there were places were it did not seal well. I used some cardboard strips, cut from the box the gasket came in, to place inside the freezer, between the hard plastic of the door and the inside of the gasket where it laps over the screws. This helped a lot, but there were still a couple small areas, so I used more cardboard, from the outside, between the main portion of the gasket and the rim of the gasket. This eliminated all the gaps. I let this sit overnight and this morning removed all the cardboard for a great sealing freezer.
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freezer would run then thaw then freeze. tap on the control knob, it would start running again
48 of 59 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
WILLIAM from URBANA, OH
Easy
15 - 30 mins
Screw drivers
Easy fix. I unplugged the freezer, unload items in freezer. took out shelves and baskets, Pulled off the control knob then removed all screws. removed inside panel, replaced part exactly as I took out old part. Put the panel back on, put everything back in place. Plugged freezer back in and turned the knob to 3. Let freezer run for a day
... Read more to see if I ordered the correct part. Problem is fixed. Thank you, PartSelect for making it so easy to find, order the correct part and for all the customers input to make the repair easy.
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Temp alarm sounding and food on top shelves partially thawed
43 of 52 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
Wayne from Forest Hill, MD
Easy
Less than 15 mins
Screw drivers
After silencing the alarm, it seemed to be running as normal without any unusual noises, but food was starting to thaw from the top shelf on down and condensation was dripping from the roof. We were able to place most of the food in 2 large ice chests and then the rest in the freezer compartments of 2 fridges we have in the house. I the
... Read moren turned down the temp dial to the coldest setting and let it run for an hour or so; no change.
After researching on the internet, it sounded like our symptoms could be pointing to a defrost timer issue. I pulled the freezer away from the wall, located the timer and used a large screwdriver to slowly advance it. While doing this, at one point I could hear the compressor kick in. I pushed the quick freeze button and let it run for a while. When I checked it in a few hours, the alarm light had gone out and water that I had placed inside was frozen. We took a chance and put the food we placed in the ice chests back in the freezer. Everything was fine several hours later.
I ordered a new defrost timer, it arrived in a couple of days, and replaced the old one with it in a matter of minutes by disconnecting the wire harness from the old timer, removing the 2 screws holding it onto the bracket, screwing the new timer to the bracket, reconnecting the wires harness, and done. It's been a week or so and no problems.
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