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KUDR0 KitchenAid Dishwasher - Instructions

All Instructions for the KUDR0
31 - 45 of 1559

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Failed diagonistics test for OWI sensor
67 of 92 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Mark from Lancaster, NY
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Pulled the dishwasher out from the counter, on the lower right hand side, about mid way back there is a bundle of all yellow wires, follow that to the sensor which mounts into the bottom of the wash tub. The sensor is easily removed by grasping it by hand and turn it about a half turn (can't remember which direction). It then just pulls out. Disconnect the wire bundle by pushing on the retaining clip and the install is the reverse.
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Started as noise when running, but NOT when filling
55 of 58 people found this instruction helpful.
  • David from Chester, NJ
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench set
I initially thought the pump assembly was dying (or was damaged by a piece of glass or something that had gotten into the pump. I priced the parts and decided I wasn't sure the unit was worth it. But the dishwasher was also not cleaning well, and was leave soap on the dishes. Turned out the water inlet valve was intermittently failing to open. Using the troubleshooting guide (both downloadable and inside the bottom panel) was no help. I just checked and saw that there was power going to the valve when it did not open: diagnosis made. Step 1: turn off water to dishwasher. Step two: remove bottom panel. Step 3, place towels under dishwasher. Step 4, disconnect water line from elbow screwed into inlet valve. Step 5: remove inlet valve screw with nut driver and slide valve sideways and back to remove. Step 6: slide clamp on hose to dishwasher away from valve using pliers. Some work involve with sliding hose off the valve (careful, the hose is accordioned plastic) Step 7: remove elbow from inlet valve (this required a visegrip to hold the narrow nut surface on the valve and a wrench to turn the elbow). Step 8: apply Teflon tape to elbow and screw into new inlet valve. Step 9: install hose to dishwasher and return clamp to hold hose in place. Step 10: reinstall valve by placing tongues into grooves and sliding to the left, reinstall screw. Step 11: tighten elbow with wrench, now that valve is held in place. Step 12: reinstall water line. Step 13: turn on supply line and check for leaks
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dishwasher cut off during drying cycle
53 of 57 people found this instruction helpful.
  • pauline from gloucester, VA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
After replacing the thermal fuse 5 times i noticed the new packaging came with a terminal block on then fuse harness. PLEASE USE THIS. It is a must, it supposedly is acting as some type of heat sink or something for added protection. Used the unit on all cycles now and works great. Just follow fuse instructions precisely. Hope it helps.
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Door seal on dishwasher frame was brittle and deteriorated
52 of 56 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Tracy from Jupiter, FL
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
Didn't have to remove any screws, etc. Just had to pull the old gasket out of a grove in the top and sides of the frame, clean up the particles caused by the deterioration of the old gasket, and install the new gasket. Have to be careful to start at the top center of the frame exactly in the midpoint of the gasket and carefully push the g asket into the grove with your hands. Try not to stretch the gasket. There will be about 2 inches of extra gasket laying on the bottom on each side of the dishwasher, and that is OK.
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Upper rack was not getting clean/lower rack was hit or miss
50 of 53 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Rebecca from Crawford, TX
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
First let me tell you I am not a "handyman". I am a 50 year old housewife who was determined not to shell out $$$ if I could help it. I researched on the internet what could be the problem...it was more than likely the chopper assembly. I found a youtube video that showed how to get to the chopper assembly. So I removed the racks by dislodging the end clips. Next I took the bottom tub sprayer off by holding the middle with my fingers and turning the blade counter clockwise. Next, I unscrewed the line that ran in the back and up to the top sprayer (I only removed the one screw so I could slide it to the right slightly so I could remove it from the connector at the bottom and it revealed four screws that needed to come out of the mesh cover. After removing that there is one more screw that comes out of the shroud that covers the chopper assembly. I cleaned the area removed the chopper assembly (totally gunked up) and replaced it with the new one I purchased here...(lightening fast shipping btw!!...Yea! for PartsSelect.com....you guys rock!) I checked for gunk in the rubber valve assembly, super easy to remove/replace. Vacuumed standing water with my shop vac to get any errant noodles and food bits and reassembled all of the housing and lines in reverse order. Before I ran my dishwasher I put some clean water in the bottom...just poured about 32 oz in. Whether you need to or not....I don't know but figured it wouldn't hurt. IT WORKED LIKE A CHAMP! Super clean dishes again!! I felt so empowered and the whole thing cost me less than 20 bucks! Listen ladies....and men....this is super easy....If I can do it....any one can!
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Upper Wash Arm fell out
49 of 50 people found this instruction helpful.
  • David from Orchard Park, NY
  • Really Easy
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
Repair is a piece of cake, much to my relief. The difficult part, if you can call it that, is that when you go to put the small piece in the top that will ultimately hold the Upper Wash Arm in place - don't drop it. Drop it and you are screwed. It goes into the sump area, and you have to disassemble the whole bloody thing to retrieve i t, which isn't maybe the easiest thing in the world to figure out. My recommendation would be to 1) remove the top dish rack so you've got a clear shot at it, and 2) cover the sump area with something, anything, that will prevent little bitty pieces that you drop from falling into that sump. Prevent this. Learn from a chump how not to be one yourself.
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Borke the spinner off with dishes that were too tall. (Oops!)
47 of 48 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Stephen from Leavenworth, KS
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
1. Put a towel over the bottom of the machine. (In case you drop the screw... duh!)

2. Remove the top screw.

3. Replace the snap pin (pointy end DOWN.)

4. Snap the spinner in place.

5. Replace the screw. (Or go to the hardware store to replace the screw you dropped into the bottom of the dishwasher. Dashitall!)
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The nylon cord broke on one side of the door.
47 of 52 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Hank from Salado, TX
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers
Ordered the parts on your site since I could find a parts schematic that really helped. I had to move the unit out and replace the spring on one side. We replaced both nylon cords since the other was showing a little wear. Received the parts quickly and made the repair the same day.
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dishwasher quit halfway thru a wash cycle
49 of 58 people found this instruction helpful.
  • mike from lockport, NY
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Nutdriver
first I noticed that the dishwasher wasn't making any noise. Then I saw that there were no lights on the control panel. I opened the door and found water dripping off everything... I closed the door and tried hitting every button I could see, nothing happened. I checked the breaker, it was ok, and since I did all the wiring myself, I knew that was ok too. So I pulled off the upper panel of the front door and got out the electrical schematic that came with the washer.
first stop, the TCO, the thermal cutoff, it's like an inline fuse. I got 120 volts going in and nothing coming out. Did an ohm check and it was open.
Found it locally and replaced it. Now I've power to the control panel but the washer still doesn't work
because the micro switch in the handle is broken and that turns out to be the original problem...
the stupid plastic handle broke the micro-switch which shorted the TCO...
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Drain hose was leaking.
52 of 68 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jason from Lugoff, SC
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers
Switched circuit breaker off.
Removed kick panel.
Removed the dishwasher from counter.
Disconnected drain hose from the pee trap.
Disconnected drain hose from pump.
Installed new drain hose.
Reinstalled dishwasher in counter.
Connected hose at the pee trap.
Turned power back on. test for leaks by r unning a cycle.
Reinstalled kick panel.
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Water would not drain, upper rack position couldn't be changed
57 of 85 people found this instruction helpful.
  • John from Mountain View, CA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
Pulled out dishwasher after checking the air gap, etc. Washer would marginally pump out water and could hear motor running on drain cycle. Usual mess from water draining out of hoses.

Ohmed drain motor at 24ohms, should be 16.3 ohms from repair manual. Noted check valve, a rubber flapper, was canted out from sealing surface.

New motor ohms at 24 ohms, installed new motor prophylactilly. Installed new flapper valve through the sump. Washer checked okay for drain cycle.

Feed tube assembly was ordered as upper rack flapper valve was worn into open on upper position due to normal use. Feed tube spinner was small, so the rubber flapper was scavenged from the new assembly and used on the old feed tube assembly.
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No water out the spray arms; first thing you'll notice is the top rack not getting clean.
43 of 46 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Brian from Inola, OK
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Took racks out, loosen screw on top and back then twist feed tube to right and whole assembly can be removed. Now you should be able to see some torx screws; remove those and then remove the piece they were holding down, from there you'll see another screw, remove it and the piece and so on until there are no more screws. Now there is the food chopper cover that needs to be removed; mine was stuck there. You should notice some ribs underneath that allow the water to be sucked in while keeping really big pieces out; I got a pair of channel-locks, opened them all the way and was able to slip one of the pieces under the cover and pull straight up, once off you will see the chopper covvered in food. I cleaned mine off and it looked good, but when I put it back and stuck my finger down teh discharge tube and turned the pump, the chpper did not turn. when I put the new one in and did the same test it did turn. If the chopper is still fits in the slot, it can be cleaned and put back and work for several washes while the part is shipped. I went ahead and changed the check valve since I had it opened which is just to the right of the chopper(all you can see is a little slit and some black rubber). Use some needle nose and pull it out. I would not do this unless you plan on changing it, I pulled mine out to look at it and when I put it back so I could order the parts the dishwasher never drained properly. When you compare a new one with an old one you will see what I mean, you can drop a new one right in but the old one you will have to force in (gets water logged over time and expands). This job is very easy and a lot cheaper than a new DW...and your wife will be impressed, so do not be intimidated.
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dishwasher leaked from left side of door
40 of 41 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Russell from Bellevue, WA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
As I pulled out the old rubber gasket I noticed there was a flat side and a curved side, this is how the new one must go. When I put in the new gasket in I just made sure the flat side (faced out) and it really was very simple. It just fits inside a grove, very easy to install. I compared the to parts (old and new) they were exactly the same shape and length.
I was very impressed with the web site navigation and layout. I was able to zoom in on pictures of the part and there were exact measurements of dimensions.
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existing silverware basket got holes in the bottom allowing silverware to fall through
42 of 47 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Mitchell from Lake Forest, IL
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
I'm really handy, but this one was a no-brainer. Lift the damaged silverware basket out of the dishwasher and place the brand new one back in its place. It took more time relishing the new basket and how brand new it looked then the actual repair took.
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Dispenser worked intermittently
44 of 53 people found this instruction helpful.
  • ROY from PHILPOT, KY
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
First, I brought in my electric screwdriver and torx bit set. The screws holding the door are torx type. I removed the screws holding the door cover allowing access to the (6) hex head screws holding the dispenser in place. Raising the plastic flap covering the dispenser I removed the (2) electrical plugs from the solenoid. Using my el ec/screwdriver and a 3/16" socket I quickly removed the old dispenser.
I cleaned the gasket area with some 409 and a paper towel and slid the new dispenser into place. I used a 3/16" nutdriver to tighten the screws. I tightened the screws in a cross pattern in (3) stages so as not to squeeze the gasket out of position. Screw slowly and the screws will bottom out when the proper gasket tension has been achieved, don’t over tighten.
I closed the door and ran the dishwasher in rinse cycle checking for leaks. After a couple of minutes and no leaks I pushed the cancel and drain button. I folded the plastic cover back down over the dispenser and reinstalled the outer door cover tightening all screws with my electric screwdriver and torx bit. I opened the door and filled the rinse dispenser.
We've used the dishwasher several times since the repair and the dispenser has worked fine.
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All Instructions for the KUDR0
31 - 45 of 1559