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KUDP01DLBL0 KitchenAid Dishwasher - Instructions

All Instructions for the KUDP01DLBL0
16 - 30 of 1107

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Dishwasher leaked under right front corner. Discovered that overflow(float switch) was either sticking allowing fill to overflow or rubber gasket was deteriorated allowing water to leak through mounting hole.
67 of 76 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Robert from Rochester, NY
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Wrench (Adjustable)
Removed mushroom shaped float cover by simply pulling up. Cover simply slide down into switch which is mounted through the floor of the tub. Using an adjustable wrench loosened and removed plastic fastening nut allowing removal of switch assembly from below. Disconnected two wires from switch and attached replacement assembly, reinserted in mounting hole, reattached nut from top, reinserted float cap and job done! The only tricky part is that the switch needs to be mounted inside assembly, wires connected and snapped shut before reinserting. Not difficult once you figure it out, Also need to make sure rubber washer is inserted on the overflow tube before reinstalling. Keep track as you remove and simply reverse the order. Tried to obtain part locally and was told it would be 6-10 days before delivery. Order from Part select arrived in 2 days.
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Lost dishwasher brackets
78 of 118 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Judith from Essex, MA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
I called an experienced plumber, who balanced and installed my new dishwasher properly, using the brackets I ordered from Parts Select, after an INEXPERIENCED plumber had tossed the factory-provided mounting brackets out with the shipping carton. Relief!
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Dishwasher not responding.
59 of 64 people found this instruction helpful.
  • William from North Providence, RI
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
First I checked the power supply and noticed the breaker was not tripped. Confirmed the unit was getting power. I then downloaded a parts breakdown from the Kitchen Aid website and noticed there was a fuse mounted in the control section. Using my digital multimeter I confirmed there was no continuity through the fuse. I then ordered the p art, installed it and washed a load of dishes:-)
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The door handle broke inside so that it was all loose and was difficult to close.
62 of 82 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Nigel from Boca Raton, FL
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Recoved the screws which secured the handle assembly (approx 8). Removed the old parts and screwed home the new parts and replaced the assembly. Worked perfectly.

The hardest thing for me was to decipher the model number as they use '1s' and 'Is' and you can't tell them apart.

Also the part diagrams should have each part number listed to make it easier. Took me longer to work out what to order than do the repair.
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Silverware basket damaged.
54 of 59 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Stephanie from Huntington, IN
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
Mine was an easy fix, lift out old and insert new. I just want to comment on the excellent service I received. I ordered on one day and my product arrived the next! Amazing! Thank you,PartSelect!
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Door seal on dishwasher frame was brittle and deteriorated
52 of 56 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Tracy from Jupiter, FL
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
Didn't have to remove any screws, etc. Just had to pull the old gasket out of a grove in the top and sides of the frame, clean up the particles caused by the deterioration of the old gasket, and install the new gasket. Have to be careful to start at the top center of the frame exactly in the midpoint of the gasket and carefully push the g asket into the grove with your hands. Try not to stretch the gasket. There will be about 2 inches of extra gasket laying on the bottom on each side of the dishwasher, and that is OK.
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Upper rack was not getting clean/lower rack was hit or miss
50 of 53 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Rebecca from Crawford, TX
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
First let me tell you I am not a "handyman". I am a 50 year old housewife who was determined not to shell out $$$ if I could help it. I researched on the internet what could be the problem...it was more than likely the chopper assembly. I found a youtube video that showed how to get to the chopper assembly. So I removed the racks by dislodging the end clips. Next I took the bottom tub sprayer off by holding the middle with my fingers and turning the blade counter clockwise. Next, I unscrewed the line that ran in the back and up to the top sprayer (I only removed the one screw so I could slide it to the right slightly so I could remove it from the connector at the bottom and it revealed four screws that needed to come out of the mesh cover. After removing that there is one more screw that comes out of the shroud that covers the chopper assembly. I cleaned the area removed the chopper assembly (totally gunked up) and replaced it with the new one I purchased here...(lightening fast shipping btw!!...Yea! for PartsSelect.com....you guys rock!) I checked for gunk in the rubber valve assembly, super easy to remove/replace. Vacuumed standing water with my shop vac to get any errant noodles and food bits and reassembled all of the housing and lines in reverse order. Before I ran my dishwasher I put some clean water in the bottom...just poured about 32 oz in. Whether you need to or not....I don't know but figured it wouldn't hurt. IT WORKED LIKE A CHAMP! Super clean dishes again!! I felt so empowered and the whole thing cost me less than 20 bucks! Listen ladies....and men....this is super easy....If I can do it....any one can!
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Upper Wash Arm fell out
49 of 50 people found this instruction helpful.
  • David from Orchard Park, NY
  • Really Easy
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
Repair is a piece of cake, much to my relief. The difficult part, if you can call it that, is that when you go to put the small piece in the top that will ultimately hold the Upper Wash Arm in place - don't drop it. Drop it and you are screwed. It goes into the sump area, and you have to disassemble the whole bloody thing to retrieve i t, which isn't maybe the easiest thing in the world to figure out. My recommendation would be to 1) remove the top dish rack so you've got a clear shot at it, and 2) cover the sump area with something, anything, that will prevent little bitty pieces that you drop from falling into that sump. Prevent this. Learn from a chump how not to be one yourself.
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Drain hose was leaking.
52 of 68 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jason from Lugoff, SC
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers
Switched circuit breaker off.
Removed kick panel.
Removed the dishwasher from counter.
Disconnected drain hose from the pee trap.
Disconnected drain hose from pump.
Installed new drain hose.
Reinstalled dishwasher in counter.
Connected hose at the pee trap.
Turned power back on. test for leaks by r unning a cycle.
Reinstalled kick panel.
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dishwasher quit halfway thru a wash cycle
48 of 57 people found this instruction helpful.
  • mike from lockport, NY
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Nutdriver
first I noticed that the dishwasher wasn't making any noise. Then I saw that there were no lights on the control panel. I opened the door and found water dripping off everything... I closed the door and tried hitting every button I could see, nothing happened. I checked the breaker, it was ok, and since I did all the wiring myself, I knew that was ok too. So I pulled off the upper panel of the front door and got out the electrical schematic that came with the washer.
first stop, the TCO, the thermal cutoff, it's like an inline fuse. I got 120 volts going in and nothing coming out. Did an ohm check and it was open.
Found it locally and replaced it. Now I've power to the control panel but the washer still doesn't work
because the micro switch in the handle is broken and that turns out to be the original problem...
the stupid plastic handle broke the micro-switch which shorted the TCO...
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No water out the spray arms; first thing you'll notice is the top rack not getting clean.
43 of 46 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Brian from Inola, OK
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Took racks out, loosen screw on top and back then twist feed tube to right and whole assembly can be removed. Now you should be able to see some torx screws; remove those and then remove the piece they were holding down, from there you'll see another screw, remove it and the piece and so on until there are no more screws. Now there is the food chopper cover that needs to be removed; mine was stuck there. You should notice some ribs underneath that allow the water to be sucked in while keeping really big pieces out; I got a pair of channel-locks, opened them all the way and was able to slip one of the pieces under the cover and pull straight up, once off you will see the chopper covvered in food. I cleaned mine off and it looked good, but when I put it back and stuck my finger down teh discharge tube and turned the pump, the chpper did not turn. when I put the new one in and did the same test it did turn. If the chopper is still fits in the slot, it can be cleaned and put back and work for several washes while the part is shipped. I went ahead and changed the check valve since I had it opened which is just to the right of the chopper(all you can see is a little slit and some black rubber). Use some needle nose and pull it out. I would not do this unless you plan on changing it, I pulled mine out to look at it and when I put it back so I could order the parts the dishwasher never drained properly. When you compare a new one with an old one you will see what I mean, you can drop a new one right in but the old one you will have to force in (gets water logged over time and expands). This job is very easy and a lot cheaper than a new DW...and your wife will be impressed, so do not be intimidated.
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Dispenser worked intermittently
44 of 53 people found this instruction helpful.
  • ROY from PHILPOT, KY
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
First, I brought in my electric screwdriver and torx bit set. The screws holding the door are torx type. I removed the screws holding the door cover allowing access to the (6) hex head screws holding the dispenser in place. Raising the plastic flap covering the dispenser I removed the (2) electrical plugs from the solenoid. Using my el ec/screwdriver and a 3/16" socket I quickly removed the old dispenser.
I cleaned the gasket area with some 409 and a paper towel and slid the new dispenser into place. I used a 3/16" nutdriver to tighten the screws. I tightened the screws in a cross pattern in (3) stages so as not to squeeze the gasket out of position. Screw slowly and the screws will bottom out when the proper gasket tension has been achieved, don’t over tighten.
I closed the door and ran the dishwasher in rinse cycle checking for leaks. After a couple of minutes and no leaks I pushed the cancel and drain button. I folded the plastic cover back down over the dispenser and reinstalled the outer door cover tightening all screws with my electric screwdriver and torx bit. I opened the door and filled the rinse dispenser.
We've used the dishwasher several times since the repair and the dispenser has worked fine.
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Pump Motor fwd bearing worn out
40 of 43 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Thomas from Massapequa, NY
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
My dishwasher motor was getting very noisy lately and finally died altogether. (the fwd bearing and seals had worn out. There was a small pile of what looked like white sand under the motor from the wear) I removed the dishwasher from the counter after turning off the power at the breaker box. I then turned the dishwasher on its side. The pump motor is removed by first removing the electrical connector, then loosening the retaining bolt and twisting the motor counterclockwise about a quarter turn. The gasket required a little force to become unseated from the housing but not to bad. Wiggle and pull! Be sure to take a look at the alignment at this point to facilitate reinstallation.To install the new motor, align the mark on the impeller(small delta) with the mark on the motor. Insert Motor into housing and turn clockwise one quarter turn till retaining bolt hole is aligned. Install retaining bolt. Be sure to note the position of the stainless steel screen where you insert the motor. Place it back in position before installing the pump if it is disturbed. I lubed the oring with vaseline prior to install also. The new oring was diffrent and did not feel very tight when i installed , but there were no leaks and the dishwasher is running like new. Partselect had the part at my door the next day with no upgrade in shipping charges and I will use them in the future. This forum helped me choose them and made the task easier to do. Hope this helps you as well.
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Dishwasher heating element wouldn't heat
41 of 48 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Luis from Laguna Hills, CA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
Replacing the heating element was very easy. Simply required 1) disconnecting water and power, 2) unfastening the dishwasher from the cabinet, 3) removing the big, white plastic bolts from the back, underside of the dishwasher, 4) disconnecting the electrical leads, 5) dropping in the new element from the inside of the washing chamber, 6) reconnecting the bolts and leads.

Replacing the electronic control unit was more difficult. The first challenge was figuring out where the old box was installed. There are no instructions to indicate that it is in the front door assembly. The replacement required 1) removing the 8 (or 10) torx screws from the door 2) removing the 2 torx screws that attached the front door cover 3) disconnecting the 5+ connections to the electrical control box, 4) removing the electrical control box, 5) replacing everything in reverse.

Some of the electrical connections were a little challenging to disconnect (a small set of needle nose pliers helped here). Removing the electrical control box was also a little tricky to do without damaging the plastic tabs.

In all, the electrical control box replacement took me about 60 minutes because I had to figure it out from scratch.

i hope this helps others because, in all, I am very happy that I chose to do this repair myself instead of paying for the service call.
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The Door Just Falls Down
53 of 85 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Neil from Winchester, VA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
After unscrewing the dishwasher, I pulled out the washer, I saw that the springs were attached just by strings that were broken... I just used the strings from an old lanyard, retied everything, and did not need the springs! works well!
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All Instructions for the KUDP01DLBL0
16 - 30 of 1107