KUDH KitchenAid Dishwasher - Instructions
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detergent cup would not open
23 of 31 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
Bruce from Winchendon, MA
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Shut off power to dishwasher. Removed front panel-4 screws on inside of door. Pull the wires off the switch. Remove the switch by taking out the 1/4" screws. Put wires on the new switch and replace the items you removed. Power up and test.
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Dishwasher wouldn't clean - arms not spraying
17 of 20 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Aivars from Round Lake Beach, IL
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Screw drivers, Socket set
Water was not being sprayed thru the arms. I opened the dishwasher, removed/unscrewed the spray arms and wash impeller (black plastic wheel that directs the water) and then noticed that the part below the wash impeller had broken into pieces. There was only a metal ring and it was supposed to have a spring attached to it. I replaced the r
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ing/spring below the wash impeller using the part from the Drain and Wash impeller kit. The dishwasher works great now.
It was my first mechanical fix. Use the web to diagnose, find the specs of the appliance and use common sense and you can do it yourself too.
By the way, the parts from this site arrived the next day.
It was my first mechanical fix. Use the web to diagnose, find the specs of the appliance and use common sense and you can do it yourself too.
By the way, the parts from this site arrived the next day.
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Dishwasher leaked
22 of 36 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
mark from carthage, NY
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
With a screwdriver I released the snaps that held the old seal on place, cleaned the area and then simply snapped the new seal in. The remarkable part for me however, is that I placed the order on December 21st @ 3PM (in way-upstate New York) and to my utter amazement it was delivered to me the very next day December 22nd @ 9AM; in plenty
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of time to reach my wife's deadline. Wow-Thank-You!
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22 yr's + tube split underside
15 of 15 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Marion from Penn Hills, PA
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
First I removed the pins to take out the dish rack. One pin on each side. Then I removed the old tube that slid off I then rubed a small dabe of lubercant on the new tube and connected it to each end opening. They slid on with litte force and no problem Thank for helping me to locate the correct replacement and for the fast delivery.
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rubber water tube rotted
13 of 13 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Wayne from North Woodmere, NY
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
Put some soap on the inside of the tube and slid it on. Couldn't be easier.
Other Parts Used:
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No heat. Replaced thermostat
13 of 14 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Tim from BURTONSVILLE, MD
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Screw drivers, Socket set
Was able to replace and repair without taking the dishwasher out. Thermostat is behind and to the left of the power junction box. Has 2 wires going to it. It is up against the bottom of tub. I used an angled mirror to see what I was doing. 1 small screw to detach and pull down thermostat. Be sure power is off before you start.
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Also reprogrammed defaults. Hit any button 1-2-3, 1-2-3, 1-2-3, fast and close door. Let it sit 15 min to run and re-set defaults. Now I have heat and dry dishes.
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Dishwasher would not come on - broken Door Switch Actuator
15 of 23 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Steve from Dublin, CA
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
In diagnosing the problem, I pretty much took the entire door apart before observing that the door switch actuator was broken off ... I went online, logged onto PartSelect, found the appropriate diagram (which on their site is quite easy to do) and ordered the part online.
It arrived far quicker than I would ever have imagined ... Read more possible and I had it installed within 2 minutes of the time I opened the package.
MrsS is VERY happy now that her dishwasher is 'back on the road'
It was a very small and inexpensive part, but PartSelect treated us as well as if we'd spent hundreds of dollars ... we could not be happier.
It arrived far quicker than I would ever have imagined ... Read more possible and I had it installed within 2 minutes of the time I opened the package.
MrsS is VERY happy now that her dishwasher is 'back on the road'
It was a very small and inexpensive part, but PartSelect treated us as well as if we'd spent hundreds of dollars ... we could not be happier.
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Scratches in Surface
83 of 227 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Michelle from Richardson, TX
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
This product comes in a bottle with a brush like Liquid Paper. It goes on incredibly easy. A second coat might be needed. I wanted to prevent rust from setting in so I covered the scratches and dings. The paint is a little brighter since my washer is 10 years old but it still looks great.
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Original tube had started splitting --dishes not clean
11 of 11 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Ricka from Houston, TX
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
I read the repair stories. Did not remove anything but the old tube. Used hairdryer to heat one end, pushed it onto front opening; heated other end, pushed it onto back opening. Took 5 minutes. Saved estimated $196 service call, parts,labor. (NOTE--I caution against using petroleum-based products like vasoline -- cause rubber to deteriora
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te. Hairdryer is the best solution.)
Grannie in Houston TX
Grannie in Houston TX
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Water leak from center of motor unit
13 of 18 people
found this instruction helpful.
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TIM from TULALIP, WA
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Removed dishwasher, take to garage, removed lower rack to gain access to top of motor unit. Used star socket wrench to remove upper screws holding top of unit in. Disconnect wires, drain tube and counter weight. pulled motor unit out from inside dishwasher and placed on bench. Proceeded to disassemble motor. Some things were obvious, othe
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rs not so. replaced old worn out parts with new, used a little lube (Vaseline) in places to assist in getting seals back in place. Instructions were of little help need to pay close attention when tearing unit apart. Reassembled with new seals, installed motor and re-installed dishwasher...NO LEAKS!! Wife and I happy.
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Other Parts Used:
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O ring seal was streched out allowing a leak
12 of 15 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Steve from Arley, AL
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
Removed 5 or 6 screws replaced O ring,Srewed cover back on ,no more leak.
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water tube was cracked
10 of 10 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Sheldon from Dunwoody, GA
- Easy
- Less than 15 mins
I heated the ends of the tube in hot water and slipped it on the round end first. I was then able to slip the other end on. The secret to doing this repair is working fast while the rubber is still pliable.
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My dishwasher's heated dry cycle wasn't heating up
10 of 11 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Brendan from SARATOGA SPGS, NY
- A Bit Difficult
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Socket set
After pulling the dishwasher out from under the cabinet, I found it underneath near the back right side. I disconnected the old thermostat, unscrewed the clamp holding it into place, put the new thermostat in, screwed it back in and replaced the two plugs. Then I pushed the dishwasher back into place, and it initially didn't work until
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I found an online forum that was able to identify the reset command for my dishwasher (for the WDT710PAYM4, press any three buttons in a sequence of 1 2 3 1 2 3 1 2 3. After completing that all the lights lit up, and I shut the door leaving it for half an hour) Once the reset finished, the heated dry worked like it was suppose to.
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Dishwasher often didn't fill with water.
11 of 14 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
Lorrin from Longview, WA
- Very Difficult
- More than 2 hours
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Remove power, either unplug the unit or locate and turn off the circuit breaker. There is power under the dishwasher even if it is not running.
Use the nut driver to remove both lower panels to gain access to the bottom of the dishwasher.
I suspected the overflow switch and used the ohm meter to discover the resista ... Read more nce of the switch, with no water in the washer, measured anywhere from a couple of ohms to 40 ohms or more and of course it should be less than one ohm.
There was no sign of any leakage or other problem so I wanted to keep the job simple and replace only the actual micro switch.
Problem! The micro switch is mounted on the back side of the float stem kit and visibility is severely limited. About all you can see are the switch terminals and the head of the phillips screw that holds the microswitch on the rest of the float stem kit.. You'll definitely need a small mirror.
I first pulled the wires from the microswitch terminals. Then I used a small phillips screw driver to remove the screw holding the switch and the first thing that happened is the small white float lever fell out. (I didn't know that it was even there because of the poor visibility. Ugly surprise!)
I spent 1/2 hour or more studying how the lever went in and found that the cirular end of the lever fits into a circular depression in the assembly body and was HELD IN BY THE SWITCH. (Now it's really getting ugly!)
The problem then is how to get the lever back in place and have it stay there while placing the micro switch back in place. There just isn't any easy way to do that. If only the switch and lever were one piece it would have been so simple.
Aha!
I placed and aligned both the lever and the microswitch on the float assembly body that I received. Using a couple of small pieces of electricians tape I taped the microswitch and lever together so they were one piece. Then I carefully (very carefully) removed the switch/lever
"assembly" that I made and eased it into position onto back side of the dishwasher float stem assembly body. When the switch is almost in place there is just barely room to get the tip of your finger in there and seat the rounded end of the lever into the depression. After seating the lever, carefully replace and tighten the phillips screw holding the switch in place. Then remove the electricians tape.
Replace the wires on the micro switch terminals, replace the front panels, put your tools away, and by golly, you're done.
This repair is not for the faint-hearted nor for those with fat fingers or who tend to be klutsy. It took me three or four attemps and a couple of hours to get the microswitch and float lever into place. But I think it was worth it as I didn't have to remove the dishwasher, play with water lines, or remove the full float assembly thus avoiding creating other problems that might likely result in water leaks and additional repairs..
If you decide to try this repair, good luck. It can be done but it is tough.
Use the nut driver to remove both lower panels to gain access to the bottom of the dishwasher.
I suspected the overflow switch and used the ohm meter to discover the resista ... Read more nce of the switch, with no water in the washer, measured anywhere from a couple of ohms to 40 ohms or more and of course it should be less than one ohm.
There was no sign of any leakage or other problem so I wanted to keep the job simple and replace only the actual micro switch.
Problem! The micro switch is mounted on the back side of the float stem kit and visibility is severely limited. About all you can see are the switch terminals and the head of the phillips screw that holds the microswitch on the rest of the float stem kit.. You'll definitely need a small mirror.
I first pulled the wires from the microswitch terminals. Then I used a small phillips screw driver to remove the screw holding the switch and the first thing that happened is the small white float lever fell out. (I didn't know that it was even there because of the poor visibility. Ugly surprise!)
I spent 1/2 hour or more studying how the lever went in and found that the cirular end of the lever fits into a circular depression in the assembly body and was HELD IN BY THE SWITCH. (Now it's really getting ugly!)
The problem then is how to get the lever back in place and have it stay there while placing the micro switch back in place. There just isn't any easy way to do that. If only the switch and lever were one piece it would have been so simple.
Aha!
I placed and aligned both the lever and the microswitch on the float assembly body that I received. Using a couple of small pieces of electricians tape I taped the microswitch and lever together so they were one piece. Then I carefully (very carefully) removed the switch/lever
"assembly" that I made and eased it into position onto back side of the dishwasher float stem assembly body. When the switch is almost in place there is just barely room to get the tip of your finger in there and seat the rounded end of the lever into the depression. After seating the lever, carefully replace and tighten the phillips screw holding the switch in place. Then remove the electricians tape.
Replace the wires on the micro switch terminals, replace the front panels, put your tools away, and by golly, you're done.
This repair is not for the faint-hearted nor for those with fat fingers or who tend to be klutsy. It took me three or four attemps and a couple of hours to get the microswitch and float lever into place. But I think it was worth it as I didn't have to remove the dishwasher, play with water lines, or remove the full float assembly thus avoiding creating other problems that might likely result in water leaks and additional repairs..
If you decide to try this repair, good luck. It can be done but it is tough.
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Dishwasher would only partially fill with water.
11 of 14 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
DAVID from MAPLE GROVE, MN
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
First turn off the power and water. Water valve is under the sink. I removed the two lower panels with 5/16 nut driver. I disconnected the valve from the cross member, again with a 5/16 socket. I removed that cross member with the same nut driver. I disconnected the rubber hose using pliers. I unplugged the electrical connector from the v
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alve body. I held the water inlet pipe with a wrench and twisted the valve off with the adjustable pliers. I applied teflon tape to the water inlet pipe and reassembled. Works like new.
For the rubber water tube I pulled off the old tube, put some dish soap on the new tube and it slid right on.
For the rubber water tube I pulled off the old tube, put some dish soap on the new tube and it slid right on.
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Other Parts Used:
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