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KUDE7 KitchenAid Dishwasher - Instructions

All Instructions for the KUDE7
16 - 30 of 1008

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Rinse Aid Cap was not secured and during dishwaher run the cap sat on the heating coil and melted.
58 of 61 people found this instruction helpful.
  • James from Brandon, FL
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
This is simple, we don't know exactly how, but when we used the dishwasher the cap must not have been twisted correctly, and after the dishwasher shut down we discovered the cap was on the heating coil and melted. I know that it was easy to fix, but the reason I ordered it from PartsSelect was their price was much lower than Kitchen Aids, (the maker), Lowes (where we bought it), and other sites we searched for the part.
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Failed diagonistics test for OWI sensor
67 of 92 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Mark from Lancaster, NY
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Pulled the dishwasher out from the counter, on the lower right hand side, about mid way back there is a bundle of all yellow wires, follow that to the sensor which mounts into the bottom of the wash tub. The sensor is easily removed by grasping it by hand and turn it about a half turn (can't remember which direction). It then just pulls out. Disconnect the wire bundle by pushing on the retaining clip and the install is the reverse.
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Started as noise when running, but NOT when filling
55 of 58 people found this instruction helpful.
  • David from Chester, NJ
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench set
I initially thought the pump assembly was dying (or was damaged by a piece of glass or something that had gotten into the pump. I priced the parts and decided I wasn't sure the unit was worth it. But the dishwasher was also not cleaning well, and was leave soap on the dishes. Turned out the water inlet valve was intermittently failing to open. Using the troubleshooting guide (both downloadable and inside the bottom panel) was no help. I just checked and saw that there was power going to the valve when it did not open: diagnosis made. Step 1: turn off water to dishwasher. Step two: remove bottom panel. Step 3, place towels under dishwasher. Step 4, disconnect water line from elbow screwed into inlet valve. Step 5: remove inlet valve screw with nut driver and slide valve sideways and back to remove. Step 6: slide clamp on hose to dishwasher away from valve using pliers. Some work involve with sliding hose off the valve (careful, the hose is accordioned plastic) Step 7: remove elbow from inlet valve (this required a visegrip to hold the narrow nut surface on the valve and a wrench to turn the elbow). Step 8: apply Teflon tape to elbow and screw into new inlet valve. Step 9: install hose to dishwasher and return clamp to hold hose in place. Step 10: reinstall valve by placing tongues into grooves and sliding to the left, reinstall screw. Step 11: tighten elbow with wrench, now that valve is held in place. Step 12: reinstall water line. Step 13: turn on supply line and check for leaks
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dishwasher cut off during drying cycle
53 of 57 people found this instruction helpful.
  • pauline from gloucester, VA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
After replacing the thermal fuse 5 times i noticed the new packaging came with a terminal block on then fuse harness. PLEASE USE THIS. It is a must, it supposedly is acting as some type of heat sink or something for added protection. Used the unit on all cycles now and works great. Just follow fuse instructions precisely. Hope it helps.
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Door seal on dishwasher frame was brittle and deteriorated
52 of 56 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Tracy from Jupiter, FL
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
Didn't have to remove any screws, etc. Just had to pull the old gasket out of a grove in the top and sides of the frame, clean up the particles caused by the deterioration of the old gasket, and install the new gasket. Have to be careful to start at the top center of the frame exactly in the midpoint of the gasket and carefully push the g asket into the grove with your hands. Try not to stretch the gasket. There will be about 2 inches of extra gasket laying on the bottom on each side of the dishwasher, and that is OK.
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Dishwasher dispenser did not open
52 of 56 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jonathan from Keizer, OR
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Socket set
Before starting the repair, I turned off electrical power to the dishwasher at the circuit breaker.

Instructions for removing the door cover panel were included in my dishwasher installation manual. The instructions were in a section for adding a custom door panel. For my dishwasher, this only required removing six screws usi ng a Torx (star shaped) driver, size T15. I found it possible to support the door cover by myself with a knee under one side and one hand wrapped around the opposite side, but another person would be helpful.

The electrical connector to the dispenser has a small tab to lock it in place. I gently pried the tab back a *little* and pulled out the connector.

There are six screws holding the dispenser in place. In this case, they were 5mm hex head screws. The screws hold a metal bracket in place and a vinyl flap is sandwiched between the bracket and the inner door panel. The vinyl flap has three holes, with two of the screws passing through the left and right holes, and the middle hold goes over a plastic tab on the dispenser.

After removing the bracket and vinyl flap, I found that there were two metal tabs holding the dispenser in place. These tabs are part of the door sheet metal. Gently prying them back a *little* released the dispenser (which would have fallen out if I hadn’t kept a hand on it).

I pushed the new dispenser through the opening until it clicked into place with the metal door tabs holding it. Then I put the vinyl flap in place with the middle hole over the plastic tab on top of the dispenser, and put the metal bracket over that and attached with the hex head screws.

Next, I reconnected the electrical wire to the dispenser, installed the door cover panel, turned on power at the circuit breaker, and tried a wash cycle. The new dispenser works great!
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Water leaking underneath dishwasher
51 of 59 people found this instruction helpful.
  • John from Springfield, OH
  • Easy
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Wrench (Adjustable)
The leak was dripping from the diverter motor. After removing dishwasher the diverter motor was found to be corroded. The shaft grommet looked good. A new diverter motor was installed and dishwasher connected. After running it awhile the leak reappeared. It seemed the only possible thing left was the shaft grommet. Of course the grommet c omes as part of the belly assembly. After searching for a better and cheaper solution I ordered a Whirlpool WPW10195677 grommet and it solved the leak.
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Borke the spinner off with dishes that were too tall. (Oops!)
47 of 48 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Stephen from Leavenworth, KS
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
1. Put a towel over the bottom of the machine. (In case you drop the screw... duh!)

2. Remove the top screw.

3. Replace the snap pin (pointy end DOWN.)

4. Snap the spinner in place.

5. Replace the screw. (Or go to the hardware store to replace the screw you dropped into the bottom of the dishwasher. Dashitall!)
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My filters had completely clogged up with hard deposits and food left on the dishes after running the dishwasher.
53 of 68 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Kathy from TECUMSEH, MO
  • Very Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
My filters had completely clogged up and had not cleaned my filters at all which was a no-no.I had lots of food left on the dishes after running my dishwasher, so I took bothp filters out and replaced them no tools required. I won’t be using powdered or liquid detergent for my dishwasher anymore only pods and promise to clean my filters once a month, so hopefully that’ll help keep them clean. Very easy replacement even for an old woman.
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Door leaking from corner.
49 of 56 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Don from GRAPEVINE, TX
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
First, I replaced the bottom door seal. You will need magnetic nut drivers because of the location of the 3/16 screws that hold the seal in place. you also need a 1/4 in nut driver to remove plastic cover that covers up the 5 3/16 screws. Last you need a small star driver to remove the door screws. Note 4 of the door screws, the 4 on top of the door are much longer than the side screws. With all this said, this seal was not my problem. I then replaced the large black rubber seal around the tub. Be sure if you do this you fold the seal in half and start in the middle of the top of the opening so you have the exact amount of seal left over on both sides. Also when you remove the old seal, clean the area it was removed from with a damp cloth. Turns out, That was not my problem either. So now I will move to the next step to see where the water is coming from but maybe this information will help someone with a simple door leak.
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existing silverware basket got holes in the bottom allowing silverware to fall through
42 of 47 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Mitchell from Lake Forest, IL
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
I'm really handy, but this one was a no-brainer. Lift the damaged silverware basket out of the dishwasher and place the brand new one back in its place. It took more time relishing the new basket and how brand new it looked then the actual repair took.
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Leaking water near front of Dishwasher
42 of 48 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jeffory from McDonough, GA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
This was an easy repair. The leak was around the solenoid of the inlet valve and thus the assembly needed replacement. Turn off the water. Take the screws that secure it to the cabinet out. Pull the dishwasher out where you can tip it on its side. (you might get someone to help you hold it tipped. Disconnect the water line (copper) and th e inlet hose (just clipped on)and the electric connection.
Take one screw out that holds the valve assembly in place and remove the valve assembly.
Put the new assembly in as the reverse procedure. Make sure to use plumbing tape on the threads to the copper water connection so that you wont have a drip leak when its tightened.
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The Door Just Falls Down
53 of 85 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Neil from Winchester, VA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
After unscrewing the dishwasher, I pulled out the washer, I saw that the springs were attached just by strings that were broken... I just used the strings from an old lanyard, retied everything, and did not need the springs! works well!
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Power to dish washer, but no power to any LED's or power buttons.
41 of 50 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Tracy from Westerville, OH
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Very easy to install the new B Metal Fuse. Removed torx head screws holding the outer door panel on the dish washer. Removed the fuse and two wires connected to the fuse. Inserted the new fuse in the holder and plugged the two wire connectors back
on. Installed the outer door panel back on, turned the breaker back and the machine po wered back up. Very easy install and saved a service call. Total repair cost $24
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Diverter valve was leaking.
40 of 49 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Dennis from PORTAGE, MI
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
After shutting off electricity, lay dishwasher on it's side (use a towel to absorb any water) then just use nut driver to remove faulty valve.
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All Instructions for the KUDE7
16 - 30 of 1008