KSMC KitchenAid Mixer - Instructions

We have the classic Hobart-made KitchenAid mixer from the mid-1980s. The original cord sheathing was disintegrating. The replacement cord is actually a better design, but the housing needs to be filed down to slide the cord into place. The old housing channel on my mixer only allowed for something basically the cord width to fit through. ... Read more The part of the cord that now fits tight against the housing is much thicker and sturdier than the original. I started with a metal file to widen the housing channel, which was working but taking a long time. My son the electrical engineer suggested a Dremel, which was indeed faster on the thick aluminum housing. We used a small circular sanding tip to avoid damaging any adjacent workings. My son also saw that the slim strain relief collar at the top of the cord was pushing and bending the wires too much against the rest of the unit, so he took an X-acto knife and gently rolled the cutting edge along the base of the top collar until he could tear away that extra collar and let the wires lie more naturally in the space. We also managed to break the paper gasket meant to shield the motor from vented flour (in my case lots of years of cocoa powder! Time to vacuum here), but taped that back together with black electrical tape. After the adjustments were made, the cord replacement itself took about 2 minutes. If your mixer is more modern, you may not need to make any adjustments like we did. Just take a picture of how the wires attach and duplicate that with the new wires in the cord.

Repairing/replacing worm-gear (FSP part# W10112253) for a KitchenAid Stand Mixer model number K5SS. First: I am writing this story because all the videos or repair articles I’ve viewed are either misleading or incorrect in that they do not include older K5SS models. 1. These older models from the mid 1960’s or even earlier have four very ... Read more large #4 chrome plated Phillips Head Screws holding the mixer base to the motor assembly and NOT four small machine screws (one with a lock-washer) as seen on other repair videos. In addition, the stand is composed of two separate pieces with the bottom half being held together with another four identical #4 chrome plated Phillips Head Screws. The upper four holding the stand to the motor housing (I used a manual impact driver to loosen the very stubborn, #4 Phillips screws) must be removed so as to access the four smaller Phillips machine screws (no lock-washers found here, best buy at least four #10, split, before reassembly) 2. Lastly, you will need two pin punches however the recommended smaller 3/32 inch is still too large to remove the pin in the tower assembly. You will need one size smaller or a #4 pin punch instead. These older Kitchen Aid mixers were built with very tight tolerances. Please be patient and take your time removing the pins. Good Luck……. Jim

I removed the pin from the outside shaft,then removed all screw around the body of the mixer,then removed the top case out,took 3 screws out from the the gear assembly case......punched the pin out of worm gear then release the little shaft out from the case,replaced a new one....then starting go backward till completely all assembled d ... Read more on't forget lube grease to all gears and test run good very smooth.........it's ok

I followed the instructional video linked to my email order confirmation. Partselect provided one of the best how-to videos I've ever seen. With the right tools, a little patience and the video, I had an outstanding repair experience.

Connecting pin broken replaced. Tested unit works fine.

Replaced the speed control plate and phase control board and works well. Pay attention to speed control board spring and adjustment lever when reassembling.

I just thought there had to be a way to replace a component to correct the speed problem. I've never worked on a mixer before, so I thought it would be a challenge. Actually the repair was fairly easy. Make sure the unit is unplugged from AC. I removed the back motor cover with one screw and removed the end seal. I compared the parts ... Read more on the mixer with the diagram provided at the Part Select website. I then ordered the parts. When the parts arrived 3 days later, I removed the Speed Control Plate ( 3 screws) and Phase Control Bd (1 screw) as one Assy. Removed the old Governor and slipped on the new one. Assy the new Speed Control Plate and Phase Control Bd comparing wiring and screwed them back to the unit. Removed the two motor bushes by unscrewing the side black motor brush holders and inserting the new brushes. I tried powering motor and nothing happened. I thought, great, now what did I do? I found out that you must make sure the brushes actually touch the armature otherwise the motor doesn't run. The gears are worn from grinding to much deer meat and my wife says no more. I've ordered new gears and looks like that job, too, will be easy to repair. Adding these parts is alot cheaper than buying a new unit and it will run like new. Not bad for over 10 years of usage.

Used the diagram on the website and a video
Totally worked!

I removed the spring loaded brush screw on the side of my mixer and lost it the next day. I found a schematic of this part on your website and ordered the four pieces that make up the brush screw(?). They arrived in just a few days and I referred back to the schematic to put it together. I then popped it in my mixer, screwed it down, plug ... Read more ged her in and away we go! Easiest repair I’ve ever done! I’m a 70 year old retired lady and not very handy, but this was an easy fix! Thank you, PartSelect!

While kneading dough, my 27-yo stand mixer walked off the counter, and shortly thereafter the plastic bowl lift arm piece broke. After a quick internet search I ordered the part. Installation was extremely easy. 1) Using a rachet with a #3 Phillips head bit, remove the four screws holding the motor to the base. 2) Using the Roll Pin Pu ... Read more nch pop out the roll pin. 3) Loosen and remove the cotter pin with the screwdriver and pliers. 4) Remove the broken piece. 5) Attach the replacement piece to the handle and insert the roll pin, tapping into place with the Roll Pin Punch. 5) Attach the lift arm to the piece and fix with the cotter pin. 6) Reattach the motor to the base. Ready for 27 more years of stand mixing duty!

Was able to use the diagrams to figure out how to put everything back together. Would have been a nightmare without that as I took the thing apart without really paying attention to what went where. The hardest part was inserting a set pin that holds the Bowl lift arm, which fits inside the stand. in place. So new parts - $20, less th ... Read more an an hour of my time disassembling/reassembling, probably saved me $125 in repair plus a couple hours driving it to service place and picking it up. No brainer.

I removed one screw on back, once inside mixer I removed the ground screw then pulled off the black and white push on caps, then I reversed everything to get it installed, very easy

I screwed the two screws into the place of original holes and Voila! it was repaired.

Removed the two screws that hold the bowl spring in place. Removed broken spring. Replaced broken spring with replacement spring. Tightened two screws that hold it in place.

First of all I found the part in no time flat and ordered it early afternoon and it was at my door within 24 hours! My son was off work one day and I asked him if he needed a job to do and he said "sure". So I showed him the new part and where it goes and in less then 10 min it was working. awesome!