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KRFC302EPA03 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

All Instructions for the KRFC302EPA03
1 - 15 of 206

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Water leaking from bottom of refrigerator onto floor
108 of 123 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jack from DINUBA, CA
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
The video on website is very good and explains everything in detail. Just follow the directions. This is EASY!!!!
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refrigerator not cold but freezer was cold
65 of 81 people found this instruction helpful.
  • jarrett from PALM DESERT, CA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
removed ice maker and wire shelf. removed back panel screws and tilted forward. removed 2 screws holding motor bracket. swapped fan blade and reassembled
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while closing the door, the light switch fouled, resulting in the switch breaking
66 of 118 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Kevin from Beckley, WV
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
I used a flat screwdriver and released the lock tab on the bottom of the light switch, and pried the switch out, being careful to not damage the plastic around the mounting place of the switch, unplugged wiring from old switch, plugged in the new one and pushed the new switch into place. Job finished light switch now working.
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Drip pan in the back bottom was cracked during shipping and leaked
41 of 50 people found this instruction helpful.
  • David from Traverse City, MI
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
We had periodic leaks from under the Unit from new, could never figure out where it was coming from. Finally as it began to cause damage to surrounding cabinets, we took the back off and found the multiple cracks in the drip pan. Someone had hand trucked it from the wrong side! It was difficult to figure out the fan removal (it sits in th e pan) but push the top forward and pull the bottom back and the fan came out. Then the pan was simple to remove / replace, by reversing the removal procedure, the fan was re installed.
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Annoying sound from the fan control motor
37 of 46 people found this instruction helpful.
  • James from Longmont, CO
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Removed the grill and control cover in the top middle of the main compartment, removed the control, unplugged it and put in the new one. The thing that took the longest was figuring out that this was the part that needed replacing. The fridge is less than two years old and about 6 months ago the control started making these odd noises. No w it's quiet. Ah peace!
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Door switch module wore out
40 of 55 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Fred from Oceanport, NJ
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers
Pull out old module...
Remove 2 wires...
Tape to inside wall [don't want them to fall down into side panel]..

Order new switch..

Fed Ex pkg came on 2nd day..

Install wires on switch...
Press into opening...
Check door light on..[OK]
.. Done
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Had to replace a hose connector at the base of my refrig/frreezer
47 of 81 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Leo from Salem, SC
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
Perhaps a helpful hint:

When aI received the hose adapter/connector, I inserted the 2 hose ends only to have water drip from the connection.
I used a utility knife to remove an inch from each side, then reinserted the hoses. That made the differnce. Dry as a bone.

LG
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Refrigerator would ice up around the condenser and through out the air vents. Stopping all air flow in the refrigerator. If you defrosted the refrigerator it would work for about 24 hours then ice up again.
29 of 31 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Richard from STATEN ISLAND, NY
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Unplugged and empty refrigerator, completely defrosted refrigerator using a hair dryer to speed up the defrosting, put a lot of towels on the floor to soak up the water when the ice melts. Removed all refrigerator racks and drawers, then remove the white plastic and styrofoam condenser cover. You will then see the thermistor, cut the two small wires connecting the thermistor to the harness leave yourself as mush wire as possible. Splice in the new thermistor and put the refrigerator back together.
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The evap motor failed (no air movement inside of refrierater
29 of 36 people found this instruction helpful.
  • John from Flagstaff, AZ
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
Removed screws from cover tested for power to motor found power was on to motor but motor did not work. I went to your web site was able to locate part in about 5 minutes . Even with over night shipping the part came to about $50,00, far cheaper tha a service call would have been.

Thanks John Paulsell
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large full jar fell on lid and broke plexiglass insert
33 of 48 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Michael from Bettendorf, IA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
snapped old part out , snapped new part in -as easy as that -shipment of part took 2 days - no problems and no issues. whole repair took just a few minutes-very satisfied, very happy .
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Compressor would not run. My daughter was told that compressor was bad and needed to be replaced. Cost would be $550 labor plus parts. I could hear a clicking sound I believe was made by the starter relay. I ordered the parts from part select and had them in three days.
18 of 20 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Ken from HOLLAND, MI
  • Very Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
I took the screws out of back panel and slid water line and panel off to the right side while I removed the capacitor and starter relay. Relay was probably the only problem, but I replaced capacitor too while I was doing the repair. Finished removal and replacement in about 20 minutes. While I had panel off I cleaned coils that I coul d see from behind and then did the same on front side. Cost was $136 for both parts. I could have done it for $71 if I did not replace the capacitor too. Saved my daughter from being taken advantage of.
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Refrigerator wouldn't get cold enough.
20 of 26 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Ty from Wentzville, MO
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Freezer would get cold at bottom and some of the refrigerator. Took of freezer back panel and located freezer fan. Took a meter and saw power was getting to it, but not working. Removed fan and replaced with new on, working like a charm. Cold air was not circulating enough throughout the unit because fan was not working. It was not t he thermostat or adapter control.
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Freezer icing up .
17 of 19 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Rich from Lansing, IL
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Wrench (Adjustable)
Watched Partselect video of P-trap installation.Removed water line & back cover& disconnected wires to water solenoid .Removed old drain tube & old problematic rubber funnel. Used contact cleaner to clean rubber residue from drain line and used a little silicone to aide reassembly. Job went well thanks to video.
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Reassembling the multiple parts
17 of 20 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Robert from LA MESA, CA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
Obviously remove the glass shelf and supports plus all three drawers first. Being as there are no screws or visible means by which the Pantry Drawer End Cap is attached and being as the part entails removal of the vent slider from the back, there presents a problem. The backside of the end cap has hooks that clip into the side of the re frigerator wall. Use caution in raising the end cap up to release the clips. It does help using the screwdriver beneath the end cap and some movement with hands but it will come up along with the backside attachment. That isn’t the problem.
The difficulty is in (1) noting and remembering how the assembly came off and apart. (2) Putting the moving parts inside of the end cap like they came out and (3) replacing the back and side at the same time. The back assembly has a clip that inserts to the left. It is important to insert that first. The side portion inserts by placing above the slots and pushing in (to the right) and down at the same time. It all comes together and you will wonder how you did it.
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Original bracket foot brake screw hole was stripped and foot brake would not extend
16 of 20 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Daniel from BOCA RATON, FL
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
The repair seemed simple, I just needed to remove the old bracket -- 4 screws -- and slip the new one on.

The tricky bit is that the roller bracket holds the weight of the fridge. So in order to make sure that the fridge did not fall over, and to keep the installation point off the ground so that I could align the screw holes, I needed to shim up the side of the fridge that I was working on.

To tap in the shims, I used a hammer and a spare chunk of wood. I ultimately used 3 shims, and kept tapping until the roller wheel could roll freely. Then I knew that the fridge was high enough. After that, it was pretty easy to remove the 4 screws, align the new bracket, and replace the screws. After that, in order to get the shims out I could just extend the foot brake as it was designed, and that lifted the fridge enough for me to easily slide out the shims. After that I just had to level out the fridge by adjusting the two feet.
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All Instructions for the KRFC302EPA03
1 - 15 of 206