KRB18HA3W3 (9D35A) Admiral Refrigerator - Instructions

I knew the chances of all the freon leaking out was unlikely so I looked at the wiring to the compressor and there was a capacitor and a starter/overload so i figured I would start there. I went on line and found the parts at this site and they were less than the minimum service call charge for a service tech so I figured what the heck let's give her a shot so I did give it a shot. I ordered the parts and they were there in less time than a service tech could come out and i installed the parts and guess what for 90.00 in parts and 15 minutes in time I repaired my refrigerator. Thanks guys, It took less time to order the parts than it did to make the repair so thanks, your website rocks and is very well designed so my hat is off to you guys!

I removed control knobs and a couple of screws and forced the assembly down enough to remove the old thermostat, and insert the new one. Lucky me it was a identical replacement item. Job took about an hour.

changed the starter connected to the compressor

The doors had many hex screws. Using the correct socket size was critical. Empty the door shelves first. The screws had to come out because the new seal had slot holes for them to go between. Take off half of the screws from the top and sides and partially remove the old seal. Attach the new seal and do the same with the bottom half. With the new seal on the lower door it at first looks like a poor seal. Gently press the door and hold it for about 5 min. Then the seal is ok. The door can then can be open and shut gently with a good seal. With a good set of sockets the work can go faster than the time given.

Removed the rubber cover over the actuator switch. Used a screwdriver to remove the switch, disconnected the wires. I then removed the switch from the mounting bracket using a small philips head screw driver. Installed the new switch on the mounting bracket then installed the switch onto the freezer door. The only difficult part was installing the rubber cover. Now I just need to repair the damage to my hardwood floors and carpet from all the water.

I had to cut off the old yoke since the threads had stripped and it would not come off. Once I did that all I had to do was to remove 4 screws on the auger motor and replace it with the new auger motor. Then I put the yoke on the new auger motor shaft and then put the unit back in the freezer. Work time was less than 15 minutes with no problems.

Part selects cataglog for parts selection was very easy to use and the online service and delivery was great.
When I got the part, it was not apparent on how to remove the auger so that I could insert the new connector. There were about about 8 visible screws, with star drive heads that I fortunately had a screwdriver that fit, and I could not tell if I had to remove all of them or only a couple.
I ended up removing all, but still could not separate the dispenser portion which held the front of the auger from the back of the ice bin. I finally figured out that the dispenser door trip lever had to be disconnected and I almost lost it when I removed the metal clip that attached it to the outside of the ice bin when the spring loaded lever tried to unwind. I managed to hold it in place, separate the dispenser holding the auger from the rest of the ice bin and replace the connector. I them got the pieces back in place and was able to refasten the spring loaded lever and then replace the screws.
If the spring loaded lever had unloaded, it would have been tricky to try to replicate the amount of turns (load) on the spring tension.

i had used your web site before and i read several problems that your readers had. i went to the back of the unit, removed the bottom cover and right there the i found the run capacitor and i chaged it. since i had only ordered this part to save money i went back and ordered the Start Device which when i took it off it was completely burned. the replacement part came labeled with 2 different compressor #, so i picked the one that i had and unpluged each wire. the part may differ from the one that it's in the unit but it worked when i pluged everything back on. it also helps to take a picture of everything before removing the wires in case you have to leave it and come back later. i hope to use this refrigerator another 10 years. thank you all for your help.

r#1 removed upper hinge bracket, removed icebox door, unscrewed middle hinge bracket, removed main door, extracted broken plastic bushings, pushed in new bushings, reversed process while adjusting doors. works fine now.

#2 compared door seal with new one from partselect. Turned out that new seal is not magnetic. Had to return. Door still has bad seal.

Due to some deformity of the gasket, it didn't seal all the way around. The instructions suggested using a heat light to warm the gasket with the door open. That didn't work too well so I closed the door and used a heat gun lightly in the areas it didn't seal. That worked great to soften the gasket so the magnet in the gasket could pull it gasket tight to the refrigerator. I let it cool with the door closed and it now seals perfectly.

Most importantly make sure you get the wrinkles out of the gasket, a step we did not follow exactly, so we ended up having to work the seal a lot more to make it fit properly which of course made the repair take longer than needed. Other than that no problems here

order a new try and install

Removed the rubber gasket and checked the switch. The switch displayed signs of scorching and the plastic was very brittle. Removed the switch which was held in by a small bracket and one screw. Replaced switch on bracket and remounted the switch. It took longer to reinstall the rubber gasket that to diagnoise and repair the switch. This was a very easy repair and the time from the part order to receiving it was two days. I'm very pleased with the part availability and quick shipping.

No tool required! Pulled out tray, emptied ice into large bowl for reuse. Pushed in and pulled from inside the coil springed auger until could get old plastic ring off and put new one on. Useing care not to apply too much pressure to ice dispensing end so as not to break housing. Have to turn auger assembly at an angle to compress enough and get old ring off. Needs a little physical strenth & care not to force plastic housing to breaking point. Worked great reused saved ice. Took less than 10 minutes

Our 20+ year old Maytag refrigerator suddenly started dispensing water one day without anyone near the refrigerator. Thankfully, my wife was nearby; my son temporarily solved the problem by shutting off water to the house. The ice dispenser unit has a "Lock" switch which turns off power to the ice & water dispenser. With the switch in the "lock" position, we were able to continue using the refrigerator (and turn the water back on) until I was able to get a replacement part.

The biggest hurdle that I encountered was removing the trim; I spent perhaps an hour and a half trying to figure it out. In the end it turned out to be easy and would have been perhaps half an hour job total had I known the trick. So... to remove the trim on a Maytag RSW2400, you remove a single Phillips head screw on the bottom of the trim. The trim then slides to the left and can be removed.

The next mistake I made was removing the entire dispenser unit. Instead, if you look closely, there are screws which may be used to disassemble part of it, leaving the ice/water dispenser housing mounted to the refrigerator door. This provides access to the ice/water actuator switch. Perform this disassembly and access to the switch becomes obvious.

The switch is held in place with a single Phillips screw. Make sure that you've disconnected the power to the fridge well before this point because, AFAICT, 120VAC flows through this switch! The switch that I replaced didn't appear to be in bad shape and, once removed, the switch seemed to work correctly when I tested it with an ohmmeter. I replaced it anyway.

Reassembly was straightforward and easy. Better still, ice and water are now dispensed correctly again.