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KHWS0 KitchenAid Washer - Instructions

All Instructions for the KHWS0
121 - 135 of 318

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I find water in the drum after a few days of non use
3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Anthony from Brooklyn, NY
  • Very Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
Removed the three screws in the back took off the top and swamped out the part. I recommend that the inlet valve is checked periodically by removing the hoses to see if there's any build up on the filter.
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Washer leaking
3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Carolyn L. from CLAYTON, NY
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
Followed internet instructions
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Bellow pierced
4 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Alexander from Miami, FL
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
1. Remove bottom panel (3 screws below). 2. Remove top panel (3 screws back). 3. Remove detergent dispenser (remove T screw in front.) 4. Carefully remove control panel is plastic so be careful not to break it. 5. Pull broken bellow from front and spring loaded clamp will come lose. 6. Push away bellow. 7. Remove cables from door lock. 8. Remove front panel screws (4 - 2 on top and 2 in bottom). 9. Unscrew bellow's clamp with flat screw driver or not driver. 10. Remove worn bellow. 11. Bellow has notch on top (Use as reference to replace. 11. Clean all surfaces. 12. Install new bellow to drum. 13. Screw clamp over of bellow not too tight. Don't want to break the seat. 14. Replace all in the reverse order and for the front of the bellow refer to my previous article (story) on front latch replacement.
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Washer wouldn't drain
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jeff from Barrington, RI
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
Easily. 4 Screws. 2 Clamps.
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Washer had a 'thunk' sound during washing. I removed the back and saw the broken shock.
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jeffrey from Bothell, WA
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
1. After ordering I watched the video on the page for the part, the guy showed exactly what to do.
2. The day the part was to arrive I leaned the washer back and opened the lower front, based on the video on the page for the part, and removed the old shock absorber.
3. Part arrived, and I put in the new shock.
4. I ran a li ght load in the washer and it worked.
5. I put the washer back together and put in place.
6. I have since run a full load and it has worked well.

Note: In case I messed up the shock I was putting in, I bought 2 but did not need the 2nd one. I have kept it, just in case my 20 year old Whirlpool might need another one in the future.
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Tub would get out of balance on the spin cycle
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Kirk from P C BEACH, FL
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers
UNPLUG WASHER ,SLIDE WASHER OUT FROM THE WALL. TAKE THE BACK OFF ,THEN TAKE PANET OFF IN THE FRONT. TWIST OLD SHOCKS ON THE TOP FIRST THEN TWIST BOTTOMS AND THE SHOCK WILL CUM OUT. PUT NEW SHOCK IN BOTTOM FIRST TWIST TILL YOU HEAR OR FEEL THE SHOCK SEAT ITSELF THEN INSTALL ON THE BOTOOM OF THE TUB.
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Replacing the heat sensor following an F-24 Error Notice.
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • william from VIRGINIA BCH, VA
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers
I followed your repair video explicitly, simple fix. However, one should
be careful when disconnecting the two prong electrical connector from
the heat sensor. the two black wires can pull free easily. In that case, the
rear of the female plastic wired connector must be extracted to allow the two black wires to be "pushed" into the narrow slot which displaces the
wire insulation and allows for a good electrical connection. If a punch tool is not available a pair of needle nose pliers works. Also, observe
the orientation slots on both the male andfemale connectors - they
connect one way only! I set the washer on it's face while effecting this
repair to better see what I was doing (eyesight not as good as it used to be). Thanks for the timely support!
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Water slowly filling the wash drum and spilling out front of machine
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Frank from WEST WINDSOR, NJ
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers
Water was slowly filling the wash tub and spilling out front of machine. Cause was the water inlet valve solenoid was not fully closing.

Turn off water to the machine
Unplug machine
Pull machine away from the wall
Remove the water inlet hoses.
At the back-top of the machine remove the three screws holding t he top on.
Lift up top from the rear and remove it.
Disconnect the hose connected to the water inlet valve.
On the outside of the back panel remove the screw holding the water inlet valve.
Remove the water inlet valve.
Reverse the process to install the new valve

NOTE: in my case the hold in the back panel did not line up with the hole in the new water inlet valve. I drilled another hole.
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Replace tub to pimp hose.
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Bob from LORAIN, OH
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
Factory hose clamps were awkward to maneuver. I used automotive radiator hose clamps instead. They worked great.
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Bellow leaking water
3 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Eric from Vacaville, CA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
Removed the outer spring with pliers. Pushed the bellow into the drum. Loosened the clamp on the bellow with a stub nose screwdriver. Removed the bellow. lined bellow up with soap fiting. Reversed procedure to reinstall.
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Water leaking in to tub when off
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • James from CHERRY VALLEY, IL
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
Replaced faulty part
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Error codes SUD and Fo2
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Gregory from LEXINGTON, SC
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
Remove three screws on bottom panel lift up and remove panel.The water pump in right in front. One screw holds it in place and the input and output hoses are on the back side.The hose clamps are a little hard to take off I found that before taking the one screw off the pump remove these two lines.Putting the pump back in secure the pump w ith the one screw. The output line is easy the intake line can be a bit of a more work to get it on because the rubber is so thin.Getting this hose and clamp was tough. Most of all use a wet vac to remove water in washer and vac out the line to drain doing this will be water free during replacing water pump.Run a cycle to make sure the lins do not leak. The other is the people that has posted this replacement are very good
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Water filling up in drum when not in use
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Don from Oceana, WV
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers
Took top off with nut driver, disconnected 2 wires , removed one screw holding inlet value. Then I reversed the procedure putting new one on. Maybe 20 min. Of course unplug power and turn off water supplies before starting the job.
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Failing inlet valve allowed water accumulation when off
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Robert from SCOTTSDALE, AZ
  • Very Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
Easiest repair on 2003 front loading washer. This unit cleverly uses star tool machine screws with a hex head so you can pick your favorite tool. Turn off the water supply. Remove the hot and cold hoses at the inlet valve, draining any water into a small bucket. Have a towel for dribbles. *This is a good time to examine the hoses and repl ace them if they are anything other than perfect. Burst or leaking hoses is the #1 cause of water damage in homes.* Three screws releases the top cover which slides 1/2 inch back and lifts off easily. Remove one screw securing the inlet valve (same size screw as the others). Pull the old inlet valve away from the rear panel for easier access. Remove the 4 wires from the solenoids (they pull straight off but maybe need a little finesse), and re-attach to the new inlet valve. Using pliers, release the hose clamp on the old valve sliding it down a couple of inches, then move the hose to the new valve and reposition the hose clamp. Toss the old inlet valve in the trash, screw the new one in place, replace the top panel, reattach and hand-tighten your hoses, turn on the water, look for any leaks, and go have a three martini lunch with the money and time you saved.
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Water constantly leaking into the washer
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Timothy from LAS VEGAS, NV
  • Very Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
Simple repair. #20 Torx, pair of pliers and 10 minutes to complete the job. Part was exact fit. Turned off the water supply, removed the three screws at the back, slid the top to the back and lifted it off to reveal the valve. Removed the screw holding the valve in place, slid the valve to the right and pulled the valve out to the ins ide. Used pliers to move the hose retainer off the valve, removed the hose, unplugged the wires, and reversed the procedure to install the new valve.
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All Instructions for the KHWS0
121 - 135 of 318