KGST307F KitchenAid Range - Instructions

I tried taking the sensor out, but the plastic coupling behind the oven wall had melted and the melted piece was larger than the opening in the oven wall. I had to use a mini-screwdriver to chip away at the melted coupling before it would fit through the opening. That took forever...but it finally worked and the repair went quickly (15 ... Read more minutes) after that.

There were two screws holding the igniter in place but one was stripped and had to be cut off with the Dremel tool. Then it was a matter of removing 3 screws from the back of the oven and disconnecting the two wires to the igniter. The description for the igniter implies that there will be screws but I supplied my own to finish the job.

Been looking for grate pads for 10 years and finally found you site and part # WPL 814323.
Wasn't sure that they would fit but couldn't even find new grates so decide to try them --Fit perfect.
Kitchen aide stove top gas with round grates. Used the drill to clean out the holes with broken pads still embedded.With clean holes the ... Read more new pads just screwed in like the originals. Thank you very much

had to take the stove out to get the back off to replace the part.

cleaned out pad area with an awl. then the pads just slide in.

Remove the cover housing the ignitor. Unscrew the 4 screws to get to the ignitor. Remove two screws to remove the ignitor. Those two screws might be ceased up and will need some excessive force if heads get stripped. Use a needle nose vise grip to remove if you run into this. Once removed, open cover at back of oven. Disconnect the two le ... Read more ads for the ignitor which one will go to the gas control valve and the other will be up towards the top left. Pull ignitor out. Installation is reverse of removal.

Removed broken glass cover and bulb, cleaned old gasket off with damp cloth and replaced with new bulb, glass cover and gasket. No tools needed.

Removed all terminals and block mounting screws. Repaired one burnt terminal and reassembled. Replacement part was an exact fit and reassembly whnet very well.

Replaced the oven igniter. The most difficult part for me was getting the stove out to gain access to the back. Used sheet metal to guide the rear legs up onto the tile. Used string to guide the wiring to the rear connectors. The rest was easy and it worked.

Repair was very straightforward. Based on information gathered from an earlier post about the same repair I simply removed all screws from the oven door. These were all located on the bottom edge of the door itself. Upon removal of the screws the door separated and exposed the "core" where I then had access to the hinges which were hel ... Read more d in by one screw each. I removed the broken hinge, replaced it with the new hinge, pieced the door back together, put back all the screws, and the repair was complete.

Very easy, unscrew the old one remove the back panel tie a string to the wires pull though the front of the oven remove the string tie it to the new ingiter and pull the wires back though the oven back wall and hook up the wires and screw it back into place.

The instructions already posted are good; the only twist on the problem I had is that I have the model with no broiler. So that caused a bit of confusion on my part, but what I needed is the lower igniter, (part #PS11747123) illustrated on the schematic diagram, with two separate leads, not a single plug. After I figured that out it was a ... Read more walk in the park. And...just to be accurate...I discovered that the factory had patched in wire extenders on each lead with wire nuts. Evidently the original igniter leads used when the stove was manufactured were too short to reach through the back wall, so they had to extend them. If that is your case also, just remove the extender wire with the cap nuts, the new igniter leads are plenty long enough to reach through the back wall of the oven and clip on to the terminals of the gas valve.

1993 model oven, built in wall model, so didn't to remove oven for the normal rear access to replace the lamp socket. As someone else posted, replacement can be done from inside the oven -- BUT the socket removal was more complex than just 'twisting it out.' But below worked! (1) Turned off oven power at circuit breaker panel. To facilit ... Read more ate working in the oven compartment, removed oven door (2 screws on back of door), raised the over door almost closed, put 2 large nails through the hinge holes when they lined up. Lifted the door out (heavy ~20-25 lbs) and put aside. (2) Put work light inside oven. (3) unscrew glass socket lens and the bulb). (3) Using inspection mirror, studied the inside of the socket to determine that its lock tab type and locations -> were on left and right sides of the socket. These tabs needed to be bent in, but they were each held out by a small circumferential length of think metal, a tab about 3/16" x 3/8". These small tabs could be moved/positioned by just finger friction, with a little start with a screwdriver tip on their edge! I got an end positioned to put sharp screwdriver under that end, then pried it (bent it) inward a short distance. Enough to use needle-nosed pliers to pull it completely out - came fairly easily. Repeated on other side of socket. (4) Then, with pliers, bent each of the 4 locking tabs inward a short distance, Used sharp tool to get one socket edge lifted a small amount; then use mini-pry bar and screwdriver to gently pry around the socket in steps, working evenly around its edge. At about 3/8", it was free. Lifted it inward gently so as not to damage the insulation of the 2 wires attached to its rear. Noted the direction of the wire tabs was straight up (keep same orientation on new socket). (5) Needle-nosed pliers on each connector to gently work the connectors off their socket tabs. Note one tab is larger than the other. Keep the wires inside the oven compartment. Don't damage the insulation. (6) Pushed the wire connectors onto their respective new socket tabs. Aligned socket with the tabs upward, and inserted it, careful to nurse the wires back into the oven wall hole; press socket into the hole, pushing it in evenly and firmly until flush. (7) Pushed in the new type bulb that came with new Socket. Turned on power, and light came on. (8) screwed on new glass cover. (9) Lifted oven back onto the hinge prongs. (easier with two people to get the prongs aligned and into their door slots.) Worked door left and right to get it to lower down fully. Removed nails, lowered door, and put its 2 screws back on. (10) Poured a glass of wine.

Your online video was a great help.

Unscrewed about 10 screws to disassemble the door to get at the hinge then screw new hinge in. Was inspired by the woman who said she did it while watching a child. I saved $200 in the repair fee I was quoted