KGRS2 KitchenAid Range - Instructions
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stove will not start no spark or gas
49 of 102 people
found this instruction helpful.
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HERBERT from ISELIN, NJ
- A Bit Difficult
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
part did not fix the problem, may be gas regulater ,well if you are changing this part,not to bad .remove the knobs bottom screws and two side screws front cover flips up and off ,the ignition control is in front of you right side ,remove the one screw that is looking at and everything slides out .i turned off the gas and elec and removed
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the gas line and carefully laid the stove on it back.made it easier ,good luck
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Kept getting F3 errors
21 of 23 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Daniel from Long Beach, CA
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
My oven stopped working and the display read F3 error. I looked up the code and found that it was probably the thermostat sensor. I ordered the part from partselect.com and when it arrived I went to install it but I ran into a somewhat scary issue. I found that I had to pull my oven out of the wall in order to replace the sensor.
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After a minor nervous breakdown, I decided to go for it and found that it was much easier than I had imagined. Changing the sensor involves taking out the two screws that hold the sensor in place (inside of the oven), pulling it out to the point you can reach the connector, plugging in the new sensor and screwing it back in place. However, if you have an oven like my model, you have to pull out the whole oven from the wall in order to reach the plug on the sensor. This sounds like a lot of trouble but for me it was very easy. The oven is held in place with screws around the front side. Most are easily accessed and you don't have to take out any critical/complicated pieces of the oven. My screw gun made short issue of the problem and I found that the oven was out of the wall within minutes. I could then easily unscrew a small back cover, change the sensor and then screw the oven back into the wall. Being very careful, the whole operation took about 20 minutes. I recommend that you get help from a friend just because the oven is bulky. It is not heavy, an average sized male can handle the weight but it’s easier with a friend. Also, be careful that the gas hose which feeds the oven is long enough (and not tangled) for you to move the oven out of its space. Obviously, be careful about gas leaks.
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After a minor nervous breakdown, I decided to go for it and found that it was much easier than I had imagined. Changing the sensor involves taking out the two screws that hold the sensor in place (inside of the oven), pulling it out to the point you can reach the connector, plugging in the new sensor and screwing it back in place. However, if you have an oven like my model, you have to pull out the whole oven from the wall in order to reach the plug on the sensor. This sounds like a lot of trouble but for me it was very easy. The oven is held in place with screws around the front side. Most are easily accessed and you don't have to take out any critical/complicated pieces of the oven. My screw gun made short issue of the problem and I found that the oven was out of the wall within minutes. I could then easily unscrew a small back cover, change the sensor and then screw the oven back into the wall. Being very careful, the whole operation took about 20 minutes. I recommend that you get help from a friend just because the oven is bulky. It is not heavy, an average sized male can handle the weight but it’s easier with a friend. Also, be careful that the gas hose which feeds the oven is long enough (and not tangled) for you to move the oven out of its space. Obviously, be careful about gas leaks.
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Oven would not light -- gas smell
22 of 27 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Mark from Rockwall, TX
- A Bit Difficult
- 1- 2 hours
-
Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
Remove racks and pull out stove from wall. Remove back cover from stove. Unscrew and unplug sensor. Rethread new sensor wire through hole and plug in new sensor and rescrew plate that holds in place.
We had complications because of how the stove was installed, which delayed the "fix" time considerably.
Also instal ... Read more led ignitor. It was determined that both were bad. Gas would come on but not light. When oven would light, it would not re-light periodically to keep the temperature up, causing gas smell. This added time to repair of an additional 1 hour, and required removal of bottom drawer.
We had complications because of how the stove was installed, which delayed the "fix" time considerably.
Also instal ... Read more led ignitor. It was determined that both were bad. Gas would come on but not light. When oven would light, it would not re-light periodically to keep the temperature up, causing gas smell. This added time to repair of an additional 1 hour, and required removal of bottom drawer.
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Inside brass liner in socket came out when bulb was removed. Apparently had welded itself to the base of the bulb
21 of 26 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Lewis from Chapin, SC
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Removed oven from wall unit and took the back off. Removed the old socket assembly by depressing the ears and forcing unit into the oven. The electrical wires were easily removed since they are spade connections and slip off. They also are different sizes so that there is no chance of erroneously putting them back in an incorrect order.
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The new unit simply slips in from the front and snaps into place. The most difficult part of the entire process is removing the old unit. A little "friendly persuasion" is required to get the old unit out.
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Oven wouldnt ignite
20 of 23 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Rodney from Menomonee Falls, WI
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver
Turned gas and electricity off first. Pulled out the bottom pan so I could access the igniter. Removed two screws holding the igniter next to the burner tube, unplugged the igniter from the back of the stove and then pulled the plug threw into the oven. Mounted new igniter and then pulled the plug threw and plugged it back in. Reinstalled
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bottom pan and I was done in 15 - 20 minutes. VERY EASY TO DO...
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Gas oven would not heat no flame. Broiler heated.
18 of 19 people
found this instruction helpful.
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David from Port Orchard, WA
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
Unplug oven. Remove oven door. Two latches on hinges must be rotated towards the door to release and then remove. Remove two thumb screws that hold drip pan in place and remove from oven. The ignitor is then exposed. Remove the two screws that hold the ignitor onto the burner asymbley. Pull wires/connection plug through hole in back of ov
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en. I used needle nose pliers to guide electrical plug through hole. Disconnect old ignitor and plug in new. Simply pull apart. There is a guide key that will ensure you install plug correctly. Reasymble in reverse order. Hardest part for me was getting the door back one.
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Oven would not maintain set temperature. Oven flame would take a long time to re-ignite causing oven to cool down more than 100 degrees before re-igniting.
18 of 20 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Jack from Millington, NJ
- Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Nutdriver
Step1: Remove oven door. Open oven door about 3-4 inches and pull up with 2 hands.
Step2: Turn oven light ON so you can see.
Step3: Remove bottom tray by pulling on the 2 rear clips and lift tray up and out of the oven.
Step4: Using a nut driver remove the 2 nuts holding the ignitor in place. If nuts are ... Read more rusted from heat spray a tiny bit of WD-40 on them and totally wipe off any excess when finished removing the nuts.
Step5:Pull wire from old ignitor through the insulation and unplug it from its connection.
Step6: Plug in new ignitor and push it back through the insulation and fasten it back in position with the 2 nuts.
Step7: Re-install bottom tray and door and CONGRATULATIONS cause you just saved yourself about $150! by DIY And you never again will be eating semi-raw chicken or better yet, take the money you just saved and treat yourself and your family to a sushi dinner.
I would like to thank Partselect.com for their quick delivery and very reasonable price on the Ignitor I purchased.
Regards.
Step2: Turn oven light ON so you can see.
Step3: Remove bottom tray by pulling on the 2 rear clips and lift tray up and out of the oven.
Step4: Using a nut driver remove the 2 nuts holding the ignitor in place. If nuts are ... Read more rusted from heat spray a tiny bit of WD-40 on them and totally wipe off any excess when finished removing the nuts.
Step5:Pull wire from old ignitor through the insulation and unplug it from its connection.
Step6: Plug in new ignitor and push it back through the insulation and fasten it back in position with the 2 nuts.
Step7: Re-install bottom tray and door and CONGRATULATIONS cause you just saved yourself about $150! by DIY And you never again will be eating semi-raw chicken or better yet, take the money you just saved and treat yourself and your family to a sushi dinner.
I would like to thank Partselect.com for their quick delivery and very reasonable price on the Ignitor I purchased.
Regards.
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oven temperature not correct
16 of 16 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Wayne from Hopedale, IL
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
Pulled the oven away from wall to access rear of oven. Disconnect electric plug from duplex outlet, turn off gas supply ball valve. Removed two screws that retain sensor on inside of oven. Disconnected two prong sensor connector at rear of oven. Tied a length of string to sensor connector wires. Pulled old sensor out through front of oven
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. Use the string to tie onto new sensor connector wires and pull new sensor into place from rear of oven. Retain sensor with two screws. At back of oven, used connector jumper supplied with part package to make connection to existing connector.
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Oven light not working
18 of 26 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Carol from Allison Park, PA
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
I turned off the breaker (I'm a little nervous even unplugging a 220 plug). I first removed the cover from the back of the stove to get to the wiring/socket. Removed the two wires from the leads - they just pull off by hand but use a needlenose pilers if it is stuck. One is larger so no need to try to remember which one goes where. I re
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moved the glass cover and bulb from inside the oven. I read another post on this site that said there were clips that you had to press to get the old socket out which helped. That part was a little tricky as the insulation around the socket makes it hard to see and the opening is really tight. I finally found the clips and pressed one then got that side out enough to hold the clip back then pressed the other clip and I was able to push it right out. I did not have the strength to press both clips with enough pressure but if you do, that would probably be easier. From inside the oven, I pushed the new socket through the hole - there was a little notch in the opening that had to match up with the socket. I had to push pretty firmly until I felt both clips snap in place. Replaced the wires, turned on the power, screwed in the bulb and cover and I had light!
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Overshooting temperatures upon changing settings
15 of 17 people
found this instruction helpful.
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James from Palmdale, CA
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
Look in the oven. On the upper left corner is the sensor. Remove two screws. Gently pull the wire and connector through the hole and insulation. Disconnect old sensor, replace new. Gently push the connection through, then finish pulling through from behind the stove. Replace the screws inside the oven. Done.
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Oven would not light; dings in the porcelin top
14 of 15 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Richard from Fanwood, NJ
- A Bit Difficult
- 1- 2 hours
-
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
The bottom burner would not stay lit. I determined that it was as a result of the ignitor's voltage droping. The thing still glowed red but apparently the voltage drops and closes the gas valve. So, I switched the broiler one with the bottom one to see if it would work. It did. Then I bought the new ignitor and put it in where I had t
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aken the broiler ignitor out. You have to take care to put the insulation back and shove the connector well into the hole so that there is no possibllity of it melting. I also replaced the oven top. I had bought that part a couple of years ago because I had dropped some things on it and it was chipped. When I got the top I thought it would be somewhat intuitive as to how to replace it. But, it wasn't. So,it stayed in its box. When I had the other problem I decided to tackle the top too. First turn off the gas and unplug the oven. You have to pry the top off with a screw driver. Then, you disconnect wires which run to the ignitor for each burner. You also have to disconnect the gas lines running to each dial. Now, you take the top off. To get the burners off the top you have to take a pair of channel locks and open them wide, wrap a rag around the burner and turn them like screws. Under the top there is an assembly that holds the gas lines in place. that has to be removed from under each buner. These assemblies are not interchangeable!!! One is left and the other is right. You then reverse everything. Put the burners in by screwing them down. Its hard but if you put a rag over them you can strike them with a rubber mallet. Screw the gas line assemblies into the bottom of the top. Then hook up the wires and then the gas lines. Then, you pop the top back in. There are those pressure clamps that hold the top down. I made a mistake with the gas line assemblies and switched them. So, when I tested the repair I realized I had the front dial controlling the rear burners and vice versa. Some day I take it all apart and fix it again!
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Oven Did Not Heat Up !!!!!!!!
16 of 21 people
found this instruction helpful.
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MICHAEL from VAN NUYS, CA
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
I realized where the ignitor was and I turned off the circuit breaker took the v plate off with a little tie nut unscrewed the 2 small nuts and small plate to hold wires in and pulled the pig tail wire out and unplugged it and then took new one and installed it in reverse order done in 7 minutes thanks michael
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burner valve assembly failed--no oven
13 of 16 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Michael from Los Angeles, CA
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
Shut off gas valve & disconnect flex pipe at both ends. Remove adapter at stove end of flex pipe and re-use. Unplug from wall, turn range around and prop rear up off ground a few inches. Undo both gas pipes going up from burner valve assembly. Remove screws--one on tab toward front; green ground screw and one above it on right; two on lef
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t side; one on panel covering wires going up from burner valve assembly. Undo both electrical plugs. Remove 2 screws at rear of bottom oven pan & take it out. Remove two screws at rear end of burner pipe and 1 at front end. Pull rear end of pipe gently away from burner valve assembly--this end just slips over brass nozzle w/small hole that points up at an angle. Take out burner valve assembly. Reverse to re-assemble. Magnetized screw-or nut driver makes job quick and easy. Be careful when replacing burner pipe that it fits over nozzle on burner valve assembly before tightening screws that hold pipe down. Use yellow tape to seal threads only at end of adapter that screws into burner valve assembly.
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hard to get old one out
31 of 71 people
found this instruction helpful.
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robert from chatham, VA
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
easy to put in
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oven would't go on
12 of 14 people
found this instruction helpful.
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James from Fords, NJ
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. I then conected the new element and replaced te two screws. Turned on the oven & works fine.
Very Easy!
Very Easy!
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