KFGS KitchenAid - Instructions

I numbered every part. ex: 1 L., for first part removed left side. I used a magic marker to circle the holes and wrote the number of screws used on the part, set the srews in a separete place, so that I new where these screws went to. The cleanup was pretty time consuming, but I was able to keep my stove, when every repairman I called to ... Read more fix my stove told me I was better off buying a new stove. ($600.00 stove 2 years old)Please Note: The insulation blanket needed for the entire stove is two pieces, the sides and top are one part # and the bottom and back, are another part #. I did not know this. I just purchased the top and sides. I got lucky, the back and bottom were still in good shape. So I guess I should have read the description of the part more carefully to see what it covers, before I ordered it. It took two people two hours to do the work, it was really nice to have an extra set of eyes, to remember what direction pieces of metal from the stove went. I would do it all over in a heart beat instead of buying a new stove.

After reading many forums found that this error happens when trying to clean the oven and there is a failure in the latch motor to lock the oven door. It was suggested 1st to just tunr the breaker off to the over wait and then turn it back on to see if the error would clear by itself. If not then you'll have to do what I did and buy a n ... Read more ew Latch Motor and replace it. Fairly easy to do:
) Move oven to get to the back panel
) Disconnect oven from power
) Remove the 8 screws to get the back panel off
) REmove the Latch motor screws (2) and remove the motor after twisting to get the latch rod off
) Put in new latch motor by 1st putting the latch rod in the motor assembly
) Screw the new motor in place
) Replace back panel
) Power on Oven
DONE!

Socket Lite come with clips attached to the outside
of the housing. After you unhook the 3 lead wires
that are attached to the unit. All you have to do is push in on the clips and release the unit. Then you
snap in the new unit. Attach the 3 wire leads, put a
oven bulb in the socket end, and the install the light cove ... Read more r

Removed oven from wall unit and took the back off. Removed the old socket assembly by depressing the ears and forcing unit into the oven. The electrical wires were easily removed since they are spade connections and slip off. They also are different sizes so that there is no chance of erroneously putting them back in an incorrect order. ... Read more The new unit simply slips in from the front and snaps into place. The most difficult part of the entire process is removing the old unit. A little "friendly persuasion" is required to get the old unit out.

I turned off the breaker (I'm a little nervous even unplugging a 220 plug). I first removed the cover from the back of the stove to get to the wiring/socket. Removed the two wires from the leads - they just pull off by hand but use a needlenose pilers if it is stuck. One is larger so no need to try to remember which one goes where. I re ... Read more moved the glass cover and bulb from inside the oven. I read another post on this site that said there were clips that you had to press to get the old socket out which helped. That part was a little tricky as the insulation around the socket makes it hard to see and the opening is really tight. I finally found the clips and pressed one then got that side out enough to hold the clip back then pressed the other clip and I was able to push it right out. I did not have the strength to press both clips with enough pressure but if you do, that would probably be easier. From inside the oven, I pushed the new socket through the hole - there was a little notch in the opening that had to match up with the socket. I had to push pretty firmly until I felt both clips snap in place. Replaced the wires, turned on the power, screwed in the bulb and cover and I had light!

switched out latch asy,rear

This product comes in a bottle with a brush like Liquid Paper. It goes on incredibly easy. A second coat might be needed. I wanted to prevent rust from setting in so I covered the scratches and dings. The paint is a little brighter since my washer is 10 years old but it still looks great.

Turned the breaker off. Removed the racks, pulled the oven out and removed the back. Disconnected and unscrewed the old sensor from the back, connected and screwed in the new one. Returned the racks and slid the oven back in.

The only remotely challenging part was disconnecting the old sensor. I had to figure out where to pres ... Read more s with the flat screwdriver to get it to release.

I had found a good YouTube video and didn't use the app.

Used cooktop creme, oven cleaner and Mr. Clean sponges. After many days of working on the surface, we were able to remove 99% of the sauce.

After removing the back of the stove, the old light socket was fairly easy to remove. The new socket slipped in place and the wires reattached and now the oven has a light again. A very simple process--especially for someone who's not an expert in repairing appliances.

Purchased 2 piece broiler pan from this site

Turn off gas and unplug cooktop. Lift off the 3 grills. Lift off the cast iron and aluminum burner parts. Lift off the five control knobs, noting that the middle knob has a thicker stem.Find star bit that fits the machine screws around each burner. Start removing with the bit in a nut driver. If you have to use a 1/4 inch socket for some, ... Read more try not to break or strip the screws or the bit. Apply heat with a propane torch if stuck hard. After that, lift stainless tray off. Lift out foil pad. Mine was the center burner igniter. Using two wrenches each side, disconnect gas lines from each side. Phillips head to disconnect plate from burner. The igniter is held in place with spring and clip. Unplug igniter wire from electronic box. I used a hemostat so as not to lose the spring clip .Spring can be removed at the plug end of the wire. A big allen key fits the one inch wide middle burner part - remove it. Now pull the old igniter out through the top of the burner. Use a small round file to make the igniter hole smoother and maybe slightly larger. Thread new igniter through hole, plug end first. Spring and clip on bottom are hard to get. Try not to lose the clip- It can spring off into space.Plug igniter wire into electronic box. I used an anti-seize compound on all threaded parts. Go carefully in reverse order . Plug in cooktop and turn on gas. test new igniter. Good luck

I didn't. Don't know how to get to light bulb to change it for this specific model

Pulled the old knob off, pushed the new one on.

I thought the problem was with one ignitor that had the ceramic piece fall off. After I replaced the ignitor, the hard part was freeing the burner from the Torx screws - drilled both screws out, all five burners started clicking and kept on clicking even when the burners were lit. I needed to get at the electrical of the cooktop, so I nee ... Read more ded to take the other four burners off. Six of the eight screws loosened, with the two that didn't I drilled them out. I made sure the circuit was off and unplugged the burner too. Finally I was able to look at the wiring. I checked for burn marks, made sure all the connections were good, checked the grounding wires, and then attached the burners with ignitors. I turned the power back on, plugged it in, and all the burners kept right on sparking. I had been checking on Youtube and talked to a friend, everything pointed to needing a new Spark Module. So I ordered the Spark Module and just had to wait for it to arrive. Once it came, I had done the hard part of getting all the burners off. So, after loosening four hex-head screws, I was able to replace the old Spark Module with the new. I was careful to take a picture of the wiring and burners, as well as the wires coming into the Spark Module to make sure I put everything back the way it was. Finally, I moved one line at a time from the old one to the new one. Took the back clip off and put it on the new one. Then I secured the new Spark Module with the four hex-head screws, fed the wires through the holes in the top of the cooktop by holding it at an angle and working my way from left to right (all while lowering the cooktop), lined up the gas line pipes, and reattached the burners. Turned the power on, plugged it in and it worked! All five burners ignited and worked just like they should. What started out as a simple cleaning of the ignitors, turned into quite a job. Thanks to the ease of PartSelect ordering and reading through these installation instructions I was able to fix my cooktop.