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KFGD500ESS02 KitchenAid Range - Instructions
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Chrome on knob had developed sharp edges (cut finger)
5 of 6 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Henry from NANTUCKET, MA
- Very Easy
- Less than 15 mins
Pulled the old knob off, pushed the new one on.
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Upper oven bake igniter went bad
4 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Robert from KNOXVILLE, TN
- Really Easy
- 1- 2 hours
-
Screw drivers
You Tube!!! Didn’t find my exact oven, but watching a couple of videos was extremely helpful. Replacing the igniter was basically simple, but since it was a first for me, I took my time. Probably saved $200. The part was just over $100.
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. Bottom oven would not heat
4 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Kenneth from BOWIE, MD
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Screw drivers, Socket set
Replaced Igniter, only problem was the connector was in the back of the unit. I had to take off the back of the unit. About 12 small hex screws to make connection. Other than that it was pretty easy.
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igniter bad - top oven's lower flame won't light
4 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Kathy from HOPE, AR
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Screw drivers, Socket set
unplugged from electric; turned gas off behind range & removed back panel; removed rack & door (optional) of upper oven; slid & removed drip cover; removed flame guard; carefully unscrewed igniter bracket to keep from dropping fasteners; located and unplugged old igniter from range back; removed old igniter through front of oven, go slow
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as it gets caught along the way; fed new igniter through same path; reverse steps - plug in new igniter, secure in oven, replace guard & cover & door if removed; back panel installed; gas knob turned to align with gas line; range plugged back into electric wall socket
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Broken levelling leg
5 of 8 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Linda from Oneida, NY
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
Took the old levelling leg out and screw the new one in.
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Part (knob) made of cast metal, but plastic sleeve inside had broken.
4 of 6 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Richard from SUN LAKES, AZ
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Pliers
Used needle nose pliers to remove flat spring steel piece which holds
knob onto spindle. Pushed replacement knob onto spindle - perfect fit.
knob onto spindle. Pushed replacement knob onto spindle - perfect fit.
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Oven lamp socket had broken center electric tab - failed.
3 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Stan from FLAT ROCK, NC
- A Bit Difficult
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
1993 model oven, built in wall model, so didn't to remove oven for the normal rear access to replace the lamp socket. As someone else posted, replacement can be done from inside the oven -- BUT the socket removal was more complex than just 'twisting it out.' But below worked! (1) Turned off oven power at circuit breaker panel. To facilit
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ate working in the oven compartment, removed oven door (2 screws on back of door), raised the over door almost closed, put 2 large nails through the hinge holes when they lined up. Lifted the door out (heavy ~20-25 lbs) and put aside. (2) Put work light inside oven. (3) unscrew glass socket lens and the bulb). (3) Using inspection mirror, studied the inside of the socket to determine that its lock tab type and locations -> were on left and right sides of the socket. These tabs needed to be bent in, but they were each held out by a small circumferential length of think metal, a tab about 3/16" x 3/8". These small tabs could be moved/positioned by just finger friction, with a little start with a screwdriver tip on their edge! I got an end positioned to put sharp screwdriver under that end, then pried it (bent it) inward a short distance. Enough to use needle-nosed pliers to pull it completely out - came fairly easily. Repeated on other side of socket. (4) Then, with pliers, bent each of the 4 locking tabs inward a short distance, Used sharp tool to get one socket edge lifted a small amount; then use mini-pry bar and screwdriver to gently pry around the socket in steps, working evenly around its edge. At about 3/8", it was free. Lifted it inward gently so as not to damage the insulation of the 2 wires attached to its rear. Noted the direction of the wire tabs was straight up (keep same orientation on new socket). (5) Needle-nosed pliers on each connector to gently work the connectors off their socket tabs. Note one tab is larger than the other. Keep the wires inside the oven compartment. Don't damage the insulation. (6) Pushed the wire connectors onto their respective new socket tabs. Aligned socket with the tabs upward, and inserted it, careful to nurse the wires back into the oven wall hole; press socket into the hole, pushing it in evenly and firmly until flush. (7) Pushed in the new type bulb that came with new Socket. Turned on power, and light came on. (8) screwed on new glass cover. (9) Lifted oven back onto the hinge prongs. (easier with two people to get the prongs aligned and into their door slots.) Worked door left and right to get it to lower down fully. Removed nails, lowered door, and put its 2 screws back on. (10) Poured a glass of wine.
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Oven was taking a long time to reach temperature
3 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Allison from VANCOUVER, WA
- A Bit Difficult
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Screw drivers
Removed door, oven racks, and cover at the bottom. Very easy to get to the actual ignitor. The more challenging part is getting to the back of the oven where the igniter plugs in. Once we got the oven pulled out enough to access the bottom of the back panel, we removed the back panel....just a couple screws and it slides up. Unclipping an
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d removing the old igniter was easy. It's a bit of a challenge to feed the new igniter's wires under the insulation and up over a small ledge and out a small hole that's smaller than a quarter. Small hands help. You can avoid the whole part of attaching it in the back of you clip the wires of your old igniter and new one. Then use ceramic wire nuts to connect the new igniter the the old one's wires. We decided not to do that since it was already done once that way and figured it would be good to have fresh wires clipped in at the back. Overall, fairly easy repair especially if you decide to connect the igniter with ceramic wire nuts.
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Upper oven igniter did not work.
3 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Roger from SULLIVAN, IN
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver
Turned off the gas line & unplugged the oven. Pulled oven away from the wall to access the back of the oven. Removed the back panel (screws) on the oven & the few inner oven parts covering the broken igniter. Sprayed WD 40 on the threads of screws holding the old igniter in place. Removed old igniter screws with a nutdriver & unplugge
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d it from the back of the oven. Installed the PartSelect replacement igniter & plugged it into the wiring receptacle. Reassembled the parts covering the new igniter & screwed the back panel back onto the oven. Plugged oven in, turned the gas back on & pushed the oven back into place. Tested the new igniter. Woohoo, oven works again & wife if happy!
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Bottom oven not heating
3 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Cheryl from WEST YARMOUTH, MA
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Socket set
Easy instal most of time was taking off and replacing back panel Found watching how to videos helpful
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Upper oven won't light
3 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Ronald from SPRINGFIELD, PA
- Really Easy
- 1- 2 hours
-
Nutdriver
Just removed the shield (2 wing nuts) than the burner (1 Screw). THe back needs to be removed to unplug the igniter. I than reversed the process until I got to the plug and found that I had 2 male ends. I than had to remove everything and go back to square one until I find the part with the correct end (which should be Female) I'd check t
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his before getting too deep into the repair.
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Lower igniter does not light oven
3 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Phonsab from WHITINSVILLE, MA
- Difficult
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Screw drivers
I repair it by shutting off the gas. removing the back panel of the stove . unplug the electrical sensor cord to the igniter. Then replace with new one.
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Igniters were working very slowly.
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Stephen G from KEANSBURG, NJ
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Screw drivers
This is a double oven unit. Both the upper and lower igniters are easy to get to, with just a few screws to remove. However in order to reach the quick disconnects, the back of the oven needs to be removed. So there are a bunch of screws to take off and the oven needs to be moved away from the wall. Pulling out the igniter wires and putti
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ng the new ones back in, is easy. Then put all the screws back on and move the oven back to the wall. Don't forget to disconnect the power when you do all this.
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Replacing the bulb in the freezer side
5 of 11 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Yafa (and David) from Bothell, WA
- Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Nutdriver
Removed the ice brucket,
Removed the light shield by releasing one screw using a nutdriver.
Replacing the bulb and reinstalled the light shield.
Your web site is one of the best and most helpfull service sites I ever used. Just wish that in the future you will ship parts overseas.
Removed the light shield by releasing one screw using a nutdriver.
Replacing the bulb and reinstalled the light shield.
Your web site is one of the best and most helpfull service sites I ever used. Just wish that in the future you will ship parts overseas.
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Head burner had something spilled on it which stained it and left a large dark brown spot
6 of 14 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Donald from Hudsonville, MI
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
Simply remove two screws take old one off and line up and put new one on and replace the two screws. Couldn't have been easier.
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