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KFDD500ESS00 KitchenAid Range - Instructions
Search repair tips from other customers using simple keywords like "replace", "fit", "remove", "inspect". DIY doesn't mean you have to do it alone!
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Socket Light had a bad thread
44 of 65 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Edmund from Emporium, PA
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
Socket Lite come with clips attached to the outside
of the housing. After you unhook the 3 lead wires
that are attached to the unit. All you have to do is push in on the clips and release the unit. Then you
snap in the new unit. Attach the 3 wire leads, put a
oven bulb in the socket end, and the install the light cove ... Read more r
of the housing. After you unhook the 3 lead wires
that are attached to the unit. All you have to do is push in on the clips and release the unit. Then you
snap in the new unit. Attach the 3 wire leads, put a
oven bulb in the socket end, and the install the light cove ... Read more r
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Inside brass liner in socket came out when bulb was removed. Apparently had welded itself to the base of the bulb
21 of 26 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Lewis from Chapin, SC
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Removed oven from wall unit and took the back off. Removed the old socket assembly by depressing the ears and forcing unit into the oven. The electrical wires were easily removed since they are spade connections and slip off. They also are different sizes so that there is no chance of erroneously putting them back in an incorrect order.
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The new unit simply slips in from the front and snaps into place. The most difficult part of the entire process is removing the old unit. A little "friendly persuasion" is required to get the old unit out.
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Oven light not working
18 of 26 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Carol from Allison Park, PA
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
I turned off the breaker (I'm a little nervous even unplugging a 220 plug). I first removed the cover from the back of the stove to get to the wiring/socket. Removed the two wires from the leads - they just pull off by hand but use a needlenose pilers if it is stuck. One is larger so no need to try to remember which one goes where. I re
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moved the glass cover and bulb from inside the oven. I read another post on this site that said there were clips that you had to press to get the old socket out which helped. That part was a little tricky as the insulation around the socket makes it hard to see and the opening is really tight. I finally found the clips and pressed one then got that side out enough to hold the clip back then pressed the other clip and I was able to push it right out. I did not have the strength to press both clips with enough pressure but if you do, that would probably be easier. From inside the oven, I pushed the new socket through the hole - there was a little notch in the opening that had to match up with the socket. I had to push pretty firmly until I felt both clips snap in place. Replaced the wires, turned on the power, screwed in the bulb and cover and I had light!
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Scratches in Surface
83 of 227 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Michelle from Richardson, TX
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
This product comes in a bottle with a brush like Liquid Paper. It goes on incredibly easy. A second coat might be needed. I wanted to prevent rust from setting in so I covered the scratches and dings. The paint is a little brighter since my washer is 10 years old but it still looks great.
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Oven light would not work--faulty socket
10 of 12 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Delores from Warren, MN
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers, Socket set
After removing the back of the stove, the old light socket was fairly easy to remove. The new socket slipped in place and the wires reattached and now the oven has a light again. A very simple process--especially for someone who's not an expert in repairing appliances.
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Purchased home but stove had no broiler pan.
16 of 33 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Raymond from BLOOMINGTON, MN
- Very Easy
- Less than 15 mins
Purchased 2 piece broiler pan from this site
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light bulb in water ice freezer door went bad
8 of 14 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Carl from RIVERSIDE, CA
- Very Difficult
- More than 2 hours
-
Screw drivers
I didn't. Don't know how to get to light bulb to change it for this specific model
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Chrome on knob had developed sharp edges (cut finger)
5 of 6 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Henry from NANTUCKET, MA
- Very Easy
- Less than 15 mins
Pulled the old knob off, pushed the new one on.
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Loose terminal caused block to overheat and break
6 of 10 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Dana from Black Mountain, NC
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Removed all terminals and block mounting screws. Repaired one burnt terminal and reassembled. Replacement part was an exact fit and reassembly whnet very well.
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Broken levelling leg
5 of 8 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Linda from Oneida, NY
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
Took the old levelling leg out and screw the new one in.
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oven wouldn't heat and showed a error message of function not available
5 of 8 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Eugene from Pampa, TX
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver
pull oven, remove back pannel and unplug and remove high limit switch. Repair was the reverse of removal.
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Oven lamp socket had broken center electric tab - failed.
3 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Stan from FLAT ROCK, NC
- A Bit Difficult
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
1993 model oven, built in wall model, so didn't to remove oven for the normal rear access to replace the lamp socket. As someone else posted, replacement can be done from inside the oven -- BUT the socket removal was more complex than just 'twisting it out.' But below worked! (1) Turned off oven power at circuit breaker panel. To facilit
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ate working in the oven compartment, removed oven door (2 screws on back of door), raised the over door almost closed, put 2 large nails through the hinge holes when they lined up. Lifted the door out (heavy ~20-25 lbs) and put aside. (2) Put work light inside oven. (3) unscrew glass socket lens and the bulb). (3) Using inspection mirror, studied the inside of the socket to determine that its lock tab type and locations -> were on left and right sides of the socket. These tabs needed to be bent in, but they were each held out by a small circumferential length of think metal, a tab about 3/16" x 3/8". These small tabs could be moved/positioned by just finger friction, with a little start with a screwdriver tip on their edge! I got an end positioned to put sharp screwdriver under that end, then pried it (bent it) inward a short distance. Enough to use needle-nosed pliers to pull it completely out - came fairly easily. Repeated on other side of socket. (4) Then, with pliers, bent each of the 4 locking tabs inward a short distance, Used sharp tool to get one socket edge lifted a small amount; then use mini-pry bar and screwdriver to gently pry around the socket in steps, working evenly around its edge. At about 3/8", it was free. Lifted it inward gently so as not to damage the insulation of the 2 wires attached to its rear. Noted the direction of the wire tabs was straight up (keep same orientation on new socket). (5) Needle-nosed pliers on each connector to gently work the connectors off their socket tabs. Note one tab is larger than the other. Keep the wires inside the oven compartment. Don't damage the insulation. (6) Pushed the wire connectors onto their respective new socket tabs. Aligned socket with the tabs upward, and inserted it, careful to nurse the wires back into the oven wall hole; press socket into the hole, pushing it in evenly and firmly until flush. (7) Pushed in the new type bulb that came with new Socket. Turned on power, and light came on. (8) screwed on new glass cover. (9) Lifted oven back onto the hinge prongs. (easier with two people to get the prongs aligned and into their door slots.) Worked door left and right to get it to lower down fully. Removed nails, lowered door, and put its 2 screws back on. (10) Poured a glass of wine.
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Part (knob) made of cast metal, but plastic sleeve inside had broken.
4 of 6 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Richard from SUN LAKES, AZ
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Pliers
Used needle nose pliers to remove flat spring steel piece which holds
knob onto spindle. Pushed replacement knob onto spindle - perfect fit.
knob onto spindle. Pushed replacement knob onto spindle - perfect fit.
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Oven stopped heating
4 of 7 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Christopher from Royal Oak, MI
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
I had a service guy come in and he told me the repair would be $550.00. I asked for a part list and did it myself. You guys saved me hundreds of dollars.
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Replacing the bulb in the freezer side
5 of 11 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Yafa (and David) from Bothell, WA
- Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Nutdriver
Removed the ice brucket,
Removed the light shield by releasing one screw using a nutdriver.
Replacing the bulb and reinstalled the light shield.
Your web site is one of the best and most helpfull service sites I ever used. Just wish that in the future you will ship parts overseas.
Removed the light shield by releasing one screw using a nutdriver.
Replacing the bulb and reinstalled the light shield.
Your web site is one of the best and most helpfull service sites I ever used. Just wish that in the future you will ship parts overseas.
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