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KFCS22EVMS5 KitchenAid Refrigerator - Instructions

All Instructions for the KFCS22EVMS5
61 - 75 of 735

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Refrigerator wouldn't cool
10 of 15 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Fidel from Forest, MS
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
First I removed the six screws from the cover. I then disconnected the two wires and pulled the small motor out with its base and removed two screws that hold it in place. I then changed the old one for the new one and set it back in its place. I then set the cover back and turned it on. I was happy again.
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replacing thermostat did not help
10 of 15 people found this instruction helpful.
  • John from Rocky River, OH
  • Difficult
  • More than 2 hours
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Icecubes came out half-way, and refrooze. I figured out, that the melter does not work (HEATER in the icemaker) Voltage measured 105V no load. Studied the Internet, and folloved an advice: shorted the back wire and the blackwire with white stripes.these go to relay contacts. It seems, that the relay contacts are no good on Infrared receiv er boaed. I turn off manually the icemaker, when needed
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didn't eject icecubes
9 of 12 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Ronald from Marion, IL
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
R & R Icemaker Assembly. Took out 3 screws and unpluged Icemaker & replaced with new part. very easy and the service from PartSelect was fantastic.
Very Satisfied,
Ron Martin
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The Icee ejector arm stopped turning due to icecube jam.
9 of 12 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Leonard from South Euclid, OH
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Not being a professional repair tech, I looked at this sites provided schematics of the ice-maker. I assumed due to the problem I had which parts to order. the parts arrived within 3 days and after I took the icemaker apart I quickly realized I ordered the wrong parts. I called and asked what to do. since I did not open the packaging for the "wrong" parts I was able to make a return. I then called back because I discoverd the part I really needed wasn't shown in the sketch. I was told that I needed to order a new motor and it would have the part I needed. I ordered the part and within 3 days it arrived. Once I had the new part I was able to quickly install. Now I have a icemaker that works better than new since ,now it does not seem to jam either.

To make the repair:
First remove the 1/4" nut head screw on the under side of the ice maker.
Remove the shroud covering the electrical connection.
Slide out the maker and depress the locking clip.
Disconect the electrical wires.
Pull off the motor cover (no screws).
Remove the three philips head screws from the motor housing. Gently remove the motor.
Next loosen the screws and pull the "black motor-mounting harness" untill enough clearance to remove the ejector arm and deflector tray. The new kit will have a new ejector arm and deflector tray.
Insallation is the reverse.
The schematics were very helpfull.
It was very simple and I saved a $150 service fee to have someone else do it for me.
PS. When I called I was able to speak to real live Americans who were able to help me, were pleasant, polite, and professional, AND they did not treat me like I was stupid because I am not a professional repair man. I will definately use this service again. and recommend to all my DIY friends!!
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Ice maker leaked water
10 of 15 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Robert from Pennsylvania Furnace, PA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
Overall, replacing the ice maker wasn't too bad but it wasn't nearly as easy for me as it seems to have been for some. In my case, the fridge was an Amana and the ice maker was mounted in such a way that disconnecting the power connector was difficult. The ice maker had to be completely dismounted before any access to the power connector was even possible. The short power cables made it very difficult to get the ice maker into a position where I had a good view of the power connector enabling me to see how to release it. The only other challenge was the cup that the water line goes into. The replacement ice maker did not come with the right cup - the instructions said to replace the provided one with the old one. No instructions for this procedure were provided and it looked to me like it might involve significant disassembly, something I wanted to avoid for fear of breaking a plastic part on the new ice maker (something I had already done when disassembling the old ice maker). So instead of replacing the cup, I modified the new one to match the old one. This involved removing a cutout on one side and covering a hole on the other. Installation of the new ice maker went fine and the water leak problem was fixed.
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Mold Ice Heating Element Broken
7 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
  • timothy from indio, CA
  • Easy
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
Looking at the ice maker it is pretty cut & dried as to how to remove the unit. I took out the ice tray and just started removing all the mounting screws. The same for the mold ice tray & heating element. I was just sad that you did not have just the heating element separate from the mold ice tray.
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The Freezer defrosted and everything on the top and the bottom spoiled
10 of 16 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jorge from Miami, FL
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
i had used your web site before and i read several problems that your readers had. i went to the back of the unit, removed the bottom cover and right there the i found the run capacitor and i chaged it. since i had only ordered this part to save money i went back and ordered the Start Device which when i took it off it was completely burn ed. the replacement part came labeled with 2 different compressor #, so i picked the one that i had and unpluged each wire. the part may differ from the one that it's in the unit but it worked when i pluged everything back on. it also helps to take a picture of everything before removing the wires in case you have to leave it and come back later. i hope to use this refrigerator another 10 years. thank you all for your help.
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Would Not Make Ice.
8 of 10 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Zach from Danville, IN
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver
After lots of internet exploring and diagnosis, the icemaker comes right out, and with three screws out and in, the job is all but done. Don't pay anyone for this repair!!!!!
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no water when under sink water filter installed
11 of 19 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Emi from Arlington, VA
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
I called the installer of my filter unit and he told me that often, thhe fridge filter is the problem. Like magic it worked
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The filter was clogged.
10 of 16 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Debbie from Bluffton, SC
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
Replaced filter and the water started to flow like the Nile River and the ice maker came back to life.
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Ice maker leaked into ice reservoir
7 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
  • joe from hilliard, OH
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
The ice mold has a coating on it. Over time the coating deteriorates. If your ice maker leaks water into the ice reservoir inspect the mold to see if the coating is compromised. If so, replace with new.

Remove the ice maker assembly. 3 small hex screws. Unplug power cord. Disassemble ice maker assembly. Remove ice mold/h eater. Replace with new. Reassemble.
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The plastic pin on the end cap holding the lid to the "Deli Center" drawer broke when the refrigerator door closed with the drawer open.
8 of 10 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jim from PLANO, TX
  • Very Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
1) Remove Deli Center drawer and lid 2) Remove the two Crisper Drawers above the Deli Center 3) Remove the glass shelf above the Crisper Drawers. 4) Remove the front and brackets that held the glass shelf. 5) Remove the broken end cap by sliding it upward off the brackets that hold it to the side of the refrigerator, 6) Slide on new end cap. Replace the other parts in reverse order of removal. You will probably want to clean the parts you have removed before reinstalling. Easy- peasy.
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replace freezer door gasket
8 of 10 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Russell from ROCK HILL, SC
  • Very Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
first pressed in two bottom corners then used fingers to press in bottom section,pressed in two top corners then pressed in both sides using fingers followed by pressing in top section using fingers.VERY EASY !
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leaking water onto floor
7 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Mark from ALTO, MI
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
replaced the poorly designed "duck bill" drain with this P trap. Very simple repair done by accessing through the back of the refrigerator. The video on this website walked me right through the repair. It did however fail to mention that the ice has to be removed from the inside. I had to remove the drawer face and pull outs. Then the ice maker and back panel are removed. I used a heat gun and screwdriver to chip and melt the ice build up. If one had the luxury of having another refrigerator to move food in to you could just unplug the unit until the ice melts.
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Black flecks in ice
6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Anthony from Billings, MT
  • A Bit Difficult
  • More than 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
The lining of the ice mold (Whirlpool) started flecking off (black flecks in the ice cubes), so I decided to replace the mold.
Loosen the two 1/4 inch upper nuts and remove the lower nut to remove the ice maker from the freezer. The hardest part was getting it unplugged. I used a small blade screwdriver to release the catch on the c onnector and pull it out.
Remove the ice maker front cover. If you have a skinny enough phillips screw driver, there are two deep set screws through two holes on the lower portion of the control module (otherwise, remove the three screws on the controller, unlatch the shut-off arm from the control module, and separate the controller to access the mold screws). Unhook the shut-off wire from the end of the tray. Unscrew the two screws holding the mold and remove the mold.
Remove the plastic hardware from the old mold and install on the new mold.
Attach the new mold on to the control module.
WARNING WARNING WARNING!!! The mold I bought already had the alumilastic on it for the contact point to the thermostat. When I installed it and tightened the screws, the alumilastic was dried out, didn't squash down, and dented the bi-metal thermostat on the controller, ruining it. I had to buy a new thermostat. Be sure to check that the alumilastic is pliable. If not, take it off and buy some fresh to put on there.
Re-install the ice maker. It took a while to get the first batch of ice because the ice maker was at room temperature and I had the freezer door open for several minutes. So the freezer had to get cold and the ice maker had to chill down. Once everything got cold, it started making ice again.
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All Instructions for the KFCS22EVMS5
61 - 75 of 735