KFCP KitchenAid - Instructions

(1) Removed the three screws which attached the ice maker to the freezing compartmnet wall in refrigerator; (2) Disconnected the power to the old ice maker; (3) Removed the old ice maker from the freezing compartment of the refrigerator; (4) Took the white front cover off of the old ice maker; (5) Disconnected the wiring harness from ... Read more the old ice maker; (6) Removed the "ice making-stop arm" from the old ice maker; (7) Placed the items taken from old ice maker on to the new ice maker; (8) Reconnected the new ice maker to the power; (9) Placed the new ice maker in the proper position in freezing compartment of refrigerator and replaced the three screws. JOB DONE!

Lower the filter bottom housing to gain access to the filter. Unscrew the filter and install the bypass cap. Secure the lower filter housing to the top assembly.

It is simple, unscrew the old screw in the new one.

After calling a repair man and being told my appliance was to old for him to repair I discovered your website. I simply entered the model number and a picture of the part I was looking for was easily found. I ordered online and received the replacement parts 5 day's later. I simply swapped out the old locking nuts with the new ones from ... Read more your website and the repair was complete. What could have been an easy $100 repair cost a fraction of that and the trash compactor is working just fine.

Took the under housing off to see the drive gear. It had broken in half. (Exactly like one of the suggestions said). Replaced the drive gear and re-assembled. It worked great!

Thanks.

Received the union I ordered, then discovered that the tubes were different sizes, so I had the wrong part. I had read elsewhere that it was necessary to trim the two ends of the tubes with a box cutter to stop the leaks - I did this, and the leaking stopped. I was then able to go to a local hardware store and get a 5/16 to 1/4 union and ... Read more replace it. The leaking is stopped, and the water supply in the door is now working like new. No problem with partselect, but I did buy a caliper so that I can check tube diameters if I ever have a similar problem! This is a great site to find instructions - well worth the time to search!

You need to remove both humidifier drawers plus the glass shelf for the bottom of the humidifier drawers and the bar at the front as a start. If I had known this before starting it would have sped up the install time. Then, pull out the deli drawer.

To remove the end cap (either side) there is a plastic tab to push down on ju ... Read more st over halfway back and then you can slide up the front of the end cap. Once you have slid up the front of the end cap a few inches, (past the channel it is locked into), you can pull it forward. You can observe the configuration on the spare part to see how this needs to be done.

To install the new end cap, reverse this process. The trickiest part is then re-inserting the deli drawer and the lid. Getting the lid onto the two axles was a bit of a struggle as the fit is very tight. Re-installing the humidifier parts is much easier. My repair time included using the opportunity to clean all of the removed drawers and shelves. If you know about the need to remove the humidifier drawers ahead of time and eliminate the cleaning I think this would take less than 15 minutes.

Remove the crisper baskets, Hinged lid, Glass shelves, support bars, and to make it easier - the door bins.
There are no screws on the end caps for this model of fridge, unlike some YouTube videos you might see.
There's a release catch nearly in the middle of the cap. With your index finger, press down on the tab, to release th ... Read more e catch, while lifting the front of the end cap. The end cap should lift up and away from the side wall of your fridge.
Be careful to then rotate the entire assembly - in the case of the right side end cap - towards you, so that you can disengage the tab on the crisper drawer temp controller, that fits in the back wall of the fridge.
Once you've unhooked the control rods to the crisper temp. control, you'll need to remove the crisper drawer runners.
Again - on this model, there are no screws. The runners just slide out from underneath their retaining plastic tabs. Slide them towards what would be the front of the fringe if they were in their natural position, they clear the retaining tabs and become free.
The control rods need to be re-attached on the new end cap.. just take your time click it between the various plastic tab.
Then insert the end tab of the crisper temp control in the back wall, rotate the entire assembly 90 degrees, so the end cap is aligned with the slide wall, and lower it into position until the retailing clip clicks into position. Congratulations, you've replaced your right side end cap!
Then reinstall all the supports, shelves, bins etc. and you're good to go.
Good Luck!

So far haven’t done the repair and probably will give up. This issue is discussed in frequent questions area of your web site. Steve’s video needs to be updated to discuss what to do with end caps that are snapped, rather than screwed, in. Before decided to DIY, I looked at video. Video job is easy. Steve showed it was easy, but video end ... Read more cap has screws. I figured mine did too and so ordered the part. When placing order, rep. and/ or web site should point out issue as now that look at item on line can see no screw holes. As your instructions note for my issue, if can pry old unit off, challenge is to recall where everything that drops out goes when replacing. Because I’m stubborn, will probably try one more time, but likely will fail to swap out old for new end cap. Warning: screwless end cap replacement is not easy.

The other instructions and the video provided by Parts Direct are pretty good with instructions, but they omit two steps. First, if you have an ice maker, you will need to unplug the connector on the back side of the panel you remove at the back of the refrigerator to access the drain tube. Just unplug it and you can move the removed pa ... Read more nel to the side without disconnecting any of the water lines. Second, the instructions say to just reconnect the "bottom end" of the new p-trap drain to the drain pan at the bottom of the refrigerator. They don't tell you there are two places to connect the new p-trap to the drain pan. The original tube/trough connected to the one at the back of the drain pan on the left (viewed from the rear of the refrigerator). At first, it looks like the new p-trap won't reach to it for the connection, but if you look closer, there is another connector to the right of the original one that the p-trap connects to properly. Replacing the drain trough with the new p-trap was actually pretty easy and would only take about a half hour. Add another half hour to give the refrigerator coils a good cleaning as they will need it now that you can reach them. The real time consumer, 3 to 4 hours, is needed to use a hair dryer to melt and clear the ice from the condenser at the back of the freezer so the water can drain. Just take your time and all the ice will eventually melt and drain out so the new p-trap will work properly.

Contacted sears home service to perform repair. Quote for repair was $307. 43. ( $196. 90 For labor ,$102. 58 For part) plus $75. 00 For service call. Based on the charge, I refused the repair and ordered the appropriate part from "part select" (733947) (wpl 8201515) motor module for a cost of $81. 84. To my surprise, the part arrived ... Read more the next day and in 15 minutes the icemaker was in a position to make ice, and has been producing ice ever since. To perform the module replacement, I had to remove one screw with a nutdriver, pull the icemaker out, disconnect a wire harness, replace the module and do the reverse procedure to complete the installation. I saved a total of $225. 59 By doing this repair myself. A lesson learned. . . . . I will always investigate doing a repair myself with the help from the people at part select. Very professional and they sent the correct part the first time.

Removed pantry drawer and both crispers. Removed glass shelf. Removed both support bars. Using my thumb, pressed into the square openings in pantry cap. That snaps the cap loose from side of the fridge. Removed l-shaped assembly from fridge. Photographed the assembly with my phone camera so I could reconstruct the assembly. It is very co ... Read more mplicated reassembling these parts. Reassembled these parts onto replacement part. Inserted tabs on cap assembly into slots in side and back of appliance. Replaced support bars, glass shelf, crispers, and pantry drawer in that order. Slid pantry lid onto plastic prongs at either end of the drawer. If new prong is too long, slice tiny section off with serrated knife and slide lid back into place. Job well done!

Unplug the fridge then wheel the refrigerator out to where you can get to the back - you will probably have to disconnect the ice maker water hose. Using the nut driver remove all the screws from the lower panel on the fridge. You will not have to remove the water hose connection just move the panel around a little. Look on the left side ... Read more (facing the back of the fridge) you will see the capacitor held onto the compressor with a spring clip. Just pull the clip toward you and that will free the capacitor. Pull up on the capacitor and that will unplug it from the compressor. Be careful not to touch the two poles on the old capacitor. Capacitors store electricity and it could give you a jolt. I used electrical tape to insulate the poles and then threw it away. Plug in the new capacitor- re-hook the clip, reinstall the back panel, plug it in and verify that the fridge is working. Hook your water hose back up and move it back into place and you are done.

Very simple. Matched female plugs with respective male color coded prong; pushed together then inserted unit in slot of freezer sidewall and rotated into position...job done.

followed the instructions provided and that's it!