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KFCO KitchenAid Refrigerator - Instructions

All Instructions for the KFCO
76 - 90 of 1171

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Ice maker stopped working
10 of 10 people found this instruction helpful.
  • BRIAN from DEER PARK, NY
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
I tested the ice maker first and got no response. So I bought the new ice maker and unplugged the connector in the back, loosened the 2 screws up top and took the bottom screw out. I took out the old one and then plugged the new one in and hung it back on the 2 loosened screws and put the bottom screw in and tightened the screws. I have t o say it’s working great! Have plenty of ice again. Saved a lot of money by doing it myself. Buy your original model number part from Parts Select.
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Remove the water filter to install the bypass cap
11 of 14 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Phil from GREENFIELD, IN
  • Very Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers
Lower the filter bottom housing to gain access to the filter. Unscrew the filter and install the bypass cap. Secure the lower filter housing to the top assembly.
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Six months in use time to replace the filter
13 of 20 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Michael from Long Valley, NJ
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
It is simple, unscrew the old screw in the new one.
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Problem = no accessible screws to remove and replace right end cap for fridge.
9 of 9 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Peter from EL CERRITO, CA
  • Very Difficult
  • More than 2 hours
So far haven’t done the repair and probably will give up. This issue is discussed in frequent questions area of your web site. Steve’s video needs to be updated to discuss what to do with end caps that are snapped, rather than screwed, in. Before decided to DIY, I looked at video. Video job is easy. Steve showed it was easy, but video end cap has screws. I figured mine did too and so ordered the part. When placing order, rep. and/ or web site should point out issue as now that look at item on line can see no screw holes. As your instructions note for my issue, if can pry old unit off, challenge is to recall where everything that drops out goes when replacing. Because I’m stubborn, will probably try one more time, but likely will fail to swap out old for new end cap. Warning: screwless end cap replacement is not easy.
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Broken pivot on the right side end cap.
9 of 9 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jon from HOUSTON, TX
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
Remove the crisper baskets, Hinged lid, Glass shelves, support bars, and to make it easier - the door bins.
There are no screws on the end caps for this model of fridge, unlike some YouTube videos you might see.
There's a release catch nearly in the middle of the cap. With your index finger, press down on the tab, to release th e catch, while lifting the front of the end cap. The end cap should lift up and away from the side wall of your fridge.
Be careful to then rotate the entire assembly - in the case of the right side end cap - towards you, so that you can disengage the tab on the crisper drawer temp controller, that fits in the back wall of the fridge.
Once you've unhooked the control rods to the crisper temp. control, you'll need to remove the crisper drawer runners.
Again - on this model, there are no screws. The runners just slide out from underneath their retaining plastic tabs. Slide them towards what would be the front of the fringe if they were in their natural position, they clear the retaining tabs and become free.
The control rods need to be re-attached on the new end cap.. just take your time click it between the various plastic tab.
Then insert the end tab of the crisper temp control in the back wall, rotate the entire assembly 90 degrees, so the end cap is aligned with the slide wall, and lower it into position until the retailing clip clicks into position. Congratulations, you've replaced your right side end cap!
Then reinstall all the supports, shelves, bins etc. and you're good to go.
Good Luck!
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The "axle" for the Deli Center lid broke when struck by an orange dropping from above.
9 of 9 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Bruce from KIRKLAND, WA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
You need to remove both humidifier drawers plus the glass shelf for the bottom of the humidifier drawers and the bar at the front as a start. If I had known this before starting it would have sped up the install time. Then, pull out the deli drawer.

To remove the end cap (either side) there is a plastic tab to push down on ju st over halfway back and then you can slide up the front of the end cap. Once you have slid up the front of the end cap a few inches, (past the channel it is locked into), you can pull it forward. You can observe the configuration on the spare part to see how this needs to be done.

To install the new end cap, reverse this process. The trickiest part is then re-inserting the deli drawer and the lid. Getting the lid onto the two axles was a bit of a struggle as the fit is very tight. Re-installing the humidifier parts is much easier. My repair time included using the opportunity to clean all of the removed drawers and shelves. If you know about the need to remove the humidifier drawers ahead of time and eliminate the cleaning I think this would take less than 15 minutes.
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Needed to replace a broken light switch
12 of 18 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Ethan from Fort Collins, CO
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Popping out the broken switch was easy once I was able to see how the new switch part was engineered. The switch was made to be replaced, having a simple tension hook on the bottom of the switch which needed to be depressed to pull the switch out of the cabinet. Once pulled out, there were modular plugs for the power line that were easy to pull off the broken switch and plug into the new switch. Pop the new switch back in and VOILA, the lights worked again! Thanks to part select's good diagrams of the actual model of my refrigerator, it was very easy to hone in on the exact part I needed. I did notice one problem with the order as the correct series for the part was displayed earlier in the process, but had the wrong series later in the process. However,. I trusted the system and the part is for the right series and fit well (an exact match, down to the color). Thanks Part Select, I would definitely use you again.
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Leaking water tube connector/union
10 of 12 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Roderick from NEWTOWN, PA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
Received the union I ordered, then discovered that the tubes were different sizes, so I had the wrong part. I had read elsewhere that it was necessary to trim the two ends of the tubes with a box cutter to stop the leaks - I did this, and the leaking stopped. I was then able to go to a local hardware store and get a 5/16 to 1/4 union and replace it. The leaking is stopped, and the water supply in the door is now working like new. No problem with partselect, but I did buy a caliper so that I can check tube diameters if I ever have a similar problem! This is a great site to find instructions - well worth the time to search!
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The frost free drain behind the freezer compartment clogged and water collected in the bottom of the freezer and eventually came out the door on the right front of the refrigerator.
9 of 10 people found this instruction helpful.
  • David from ROSEBURG, OR
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
The other instructions and the video provided by Parts Direct are pretty good with instructions, but they omit two steps. First, if you have an ice maker, you will need to unplug the connector on the back side of the panel you remove at the back of the refrigerator to access the drain tube. Just unplug it and you can move the removed pa nel to the side without disconnecting any of the water lines. Second, the instructions say to just reconnect the "bottom end" of the new p-trap drain to the drain pan at the bottom of the refrigerator. They don't tell you there are two places to connect the new p-trap to the drain pan. The original tube/trough connected to the one at the back of the drain pan on the left (viewed from the rear of the refrigerator). At first, it looks like the new p-trap won't reach to it for the connection, but if you look closer, there is another connector to the right of the original one that the p-trap connects to properly. Replacing the drain trough with the new p-trap was actually pretty easy and would only take about a half hour. Add another half hour to give the refrigerator coils a good cleaning as they will need it now that you can reach them. The real time consumer, 3 to 4 hours, is needed to use a hair dryer to melt and clear the ice from the condenser at the back of the freezer so the water can drain. Just take your time and all the ice will eventually melt and drain out so the new p-trap will work properly.
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Right hand door would not auto close.
16 of 31 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Bill from Murphy, NC
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver
Removed the top door hinge cover.
Remover the four 12mm hex screws.
Lifted empty door off bottem hinge support.
Removed old door closure.
Put some silicon lub on the new closure and installed.
Reversed the removal steps.

But this did not fix the problem. Will have to remove the door and inspect the insi de of the door's lower hinge assembly.
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Replacing pantry cap with broken “axle” that allows lid to swivel open and shut
8 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
  • MARGARET from COUPEVILLE, WA
  • Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
Removed pantry drawer and both crispers. Removed glass shelf. Removed both support bars. Using my thumb, pressed into the square openings in pantry cap. That snaps the cap loose from side of the fridge. Removed l-shaped assembly from fridge. Photographed the assembly with my phone camera so I could reconstruct the assembly. It is very co mplicated reassembling these parts. Reassembled these parts onto replacement part. Inserted tabs on cap assembly into slots in side and back of appliance. Replaced support bars, glass shelf, crispers, and pantry drawer in that order. Slid pantry lid onto plastic prongs at either end of the drawer. If new prong is too long, slice tiny section off with serrated knife and slide lid back into place. Job well done!
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Icemaker Would Not Produce Ice
8 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
  • ROBERT from INVERNESS, IL
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
Contacted sears home service to perform repair. Quote for repair was $307. 43. ( $196. 90 For labor ,$102. 58 For part) plus $75. 00 For service call. Based on the charge, I refused the repair and ordered the appropriate part from "part select" (733947) (wpl 8201515) motor module for a cost of $81. 84. To my surprise, the part arrived the next day and in 15 minutes the icemaker was in a position to make ice, and has been producing ice ever since. To perform the module replacement, I had to remove one screw with a nutdriver, pull the icemaker out, disconnect a wire harness, replace the module and do the reverse procedure to complete the installation. I saved a total of $225. 59 By doing this repair myself. A lesson learned. . . . . I will always investigate doing a repair myself with the help from the people at part select. Very professional and they sent the correct part the first time.
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Replace water filter
13 of 23 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Brenda from Spokane Valley, WA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
pop open, unscrew quarter turn, screw new one in quarter turn, pop shut. duh
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Ice maker motor would run continuously but the blades would not turn and no ice came out.
9 of 11 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Gary from Medway, MA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
I wasn't sure what the problem was, but the ice maker seemed simple and on-line resources suggested the control and motor assemblty was at fault. I searched the internet and Partsource had great diagrams which I could match to the part in hand. The price was right (way less than the local stores) so I ordered it.
I unplugged the unit from the power in the freezer, but unplugging the entire refrigerator works too. I pried off the white cover on the front of the ice maker, which snaps in place top and bottom. There are three screws holding the contoller (the entire front piece), remove them, pull off the controller and push the new one in place. You may have to turn the blade shaft to line up the notch on the shaft to the motor. Then reinstall the three screws, The screws go into plastic so it is easy to cross thread them, so be careful, I actually think I did with no ill effects. Snap on the cover and repower the unit. Done. Simple and quick.
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broken light switch
12 of 20 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Richard from West Warwick, RI
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
followed the instructions provided and that's it!
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All Instructions for the KFCO
76 - 90 of 1171