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KEYE800TTO0 KitchenAid Dryer - Instructions
Search repair tips from other customers using simple keywords like "replace", "fit", "remove", "inspect". DIY doesn't mean you have to do it alone!
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dryer had no heat
6 of 6 people
found this instruction helpful.
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gary from newcomerstown, OH
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Nutdriver
My Whirlpool dryer had no heat. I removed the back panel and within minutes diagnosed the problem to a blown thermal cut-off fuse. I ordered a thermal cut-off kit on a Sunday night and had the parts at 7:30am Wednesday morning. Total time for diagnosing and repair was no more than 15 minutes. PartSelect saved me a ton of money and aggrava
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tion!!! AWESOME!!!!
Gary
Gary
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Dryer wouldn't run
6 of 6 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Edward from Richlands, NC
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
Extremely easy repair! Unplug the dryer. Remove the lint trap screen. Take the two screws out of the lint trap chute, pry up the top of the dryer, insert wood or have someone hold top up, remove two screws holding the switch in place while holding the switch so the old spring doesn't fall. Remove old spring and replace with new one.
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Re-attach switch to dryer with two screws. Plug in and test run. Lower top and push firmly to engages clips. Re-install two scres in lint trap chute followed by the lint trap screen and you are finished!
Repair took about five minutes and saved approximately $70!
Repair took about five minutes and saved approximately $70!
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Dryer would run, but no heat.
7 of 9 people
found this instruction helpful.
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William from Galion, OH
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Socket set
First I did a search on dryer repair. Found a website that described easy things to check with an ohm-meter. I then performed the continuity checks on the items and found the high-limit one was open, in other words, no good. It works similar to a fuse. All this was done after removing the back panel, just a few screws. The reason it exce
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eded the high limit, possibly because I never opened the back up and cleaned it. Found out it should be done every couple years. My vent line had a hole in it and was letting lint get drawn into the heating element, could have been a fire.
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My dryer conked. Would not turn on, but before that happened it was taking way too long to dry the clothes and the dryer would stop in the middle of a cycle.
7 of 9 people
found this instruction helpful.
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brenda from Newman Lake, WA
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
Went on this website and found a story that was similar. I ordered the parts which arrived quickly and I replaced the Thermal Fuse and heating element and it was fixed! The whole repair cost me $24.88! Way cheaper than calling a repair man.
Heater thing was part # 3387134
and the fuse was 3392519
Heater thing was part # 3387134
and the fuse was 3392519
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Dryer was taking twice as long to dry as it used to.
6 of 6 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Glenn from East Brunswick, NJ
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Took of the back cover, and removed the vent connecting the blower motor to the drum. It was completly full of lint, so cleaned it out completly, and tried the dryer again. The heater element was still cutting off early, and the clothes were not getting very warm, but better than before. Decided to change the thermal cut-off switches.
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Ordered the parts on Sun, they came in on Tuesday. Dryer was up and running Tuesday night. Just 2 screws per switch, took less than 1/2 hour. The dryer now runs like brand new, and my wife was ready to fork over $800 for a new one!
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couldn't get the wire connection anywhere after we bought the heating element.
6 of 6 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Betty from Erie, PA
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Socket set
we received the two heating element wires in 3 days and connected the heating element with no problem works great.
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broken rib belt
6 of 6 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Robert from PEABODY, MA
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Followed instructions from video, just removed lint collector, dryer top and front panel, removed broken belt and old idler pulley. Vacuumed and cleaned up inside dryer.installed new pulley and rib belt according to printed instructions,installed new dryer duct and new clamps. Saved myself huge service call or having to buy new dryer.Wil
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l be checking with this site on any future repairs instead of calling a repair service. Your video made it real easy to repair.and I am 77 years old.. Bob
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Loud screeching noise when dryer running
6 of 6 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Stephen from Charlotte, NC
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
First, removed the bottom cover below the dryer door. This is just held on with two clips that can be pushed in with a flat screw driver. Then remove the springs that go from the bottom of the dryer to the inside of the dryer door. We had to remove the entire front of the dryer, so the easiest way we found was to loosen the two screws
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on the bottom of the front panel, but not remove them. Then pop up the top of the dryer. To lift the top, first remove the two screws under the little door where the lint trap goes. The top is hinged in the back, and it snaps down onto two clips that can easily be popped up with a flat screw driver) With the top opened, there are two screws accessible. When the front of the dryer is removed, there will be nothing to support the drum, so what we found was that if you rotate the drum, you'll find a point where there's a hole in the top of the drum. If you take the springs that you removed from the bottom of the door you can hook them into this hole, and hook the other end into a hole in the back wall of the dryer just behind the drum. The springs are the perfect size for this, and it keeps the drum from falling when you remove the front panel. then just disconnect the three wires going to the switch inside the front panel, and remove the two screws from the top of the front panel. It should then lift right off. The bearing can just be pulled away and the new one installed. Put everything together again in reverse order.
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Dryer made a terrible squealing noise
7 of 9 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Will from Charlotte, NC
- A Bit Difficult
- 15 - 30 mins
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Screw drivers, Socket set
Took a bit to first figure out how to get the front of the dryer off in order to access the motor, wheels, and belt, but found a "how-to" online. Once I had that, the rest was easy.
Lubricated motor and guide wheels but squealing still there. Then noticed the "idler pulley assembly" (the part that keeps the belt tight against ... Read more the drum) looked a bit old and worn. Ordered a replacement part on this site because it was much much cheaper than a service call, installed it.... and NO SQUEAL!!!
Lubricated motor and guide wheels but squealing still there. Then noticed the "idler pulley assembly" (the part that keeps the belt tight against ... Read more the drum) looked a bit old and worn. Ordered a replacement part on this site because it was much much cheaper than a service call, installed it.... and NO SQUEAL!!!
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Needed to repair and replace dryer motor pulley and pully
6 of 6 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Rob from GAITHERSBURG, MD
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Wrench (Adjustable)
this was very was very easy. But I deviated from the You Tube instructions. One to release the motor pulley. I needed to use 2 adjustable wrenches for a longer lever. I needed to use a hammer to help release pulley. Second to remove the dryer cable I needed to use a small screw driver to aid in the release. ---- the part from the comp
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any was a perfect fit.
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Dryer stopped spinning.
8 of 12 people
found this instruction helpful.
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sherif from BARTONSVILLE, PA
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
Followed the PartSelect instruction video.
Basically opened the dryer.
Took the drum out.
Took the broken motor out.
cleanned the dryer since I had everything opened.
Replaced motor, pulley, old belt.
My 20 years old dryer is running like brand new.
Basically opened the dryer.
Took the drum out.
Took the broken motor out.
cleanned the dryer since I had everything opened.
Replaced motor, pulley, old belt.
My 20 years old dryer is running like brand new.
Other Parts Used:
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Dryer stopped heating
6 of 7 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Joseph from Austin, TX
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers, Socket set
(Always unplug dryer before making any repairs) I opened the dryer and checked the heating element. Making sure that the connection was good and nothing was damaged, I determined the problem was overheated wires. They melted and lots connection. I replaced them with the heating element wire connection kit. Easy to install and simple t
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o get right. I cleaned the dryer again with a vaccum cleaner, removing all the lint, and checked the vents, making sure they were clear...I turned the breaker on (it was tripped when the dryer overheated)and everything worked great.
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Auto Dry Sensor Failed
9 of 16 people
found this instruction helpful.
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J from Trabuco Canyon, CA
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Really simple, the dryer repair guy I had out did not have the part and wanted $100 to fix. Did it myself quickly and easily and the dryer is working like a charm.
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Dryer would not start.
7 of 10 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Rebecca from Scarsdale, NY
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
Unplug dryer from mains. Remove the back of the dryer. Thermal fuse is located on the left hand side near the bottom as you face the back of the dryer. Remove fuse and connect new fuse. Never repaired an appliance before and this was so easy!
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Start windings burnt out on original motor (dryer would not start)
7 of 10 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Frank from Smyrna, TN
- Easy
- 1- 2 hours
-
Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
The repair was fairly straight-forward. I removed the front of the dryer, lifted the top off, and then released the tension off the belt dy depressing the pulley arm. Once the belt was off, the drum came right out and then it was on to unhooking the wiring from the old motor. Very simple up till this point. The snag came when I went to un
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thread the impeller fan off of the old motor shaft. It was permanently sealed onto the shaft so I had to cut the old shaft into using a reciprocating saw was a metal-cutting blade. Once this was done the new motor installed easily exactly like the old one was mounted. I had to also purchase a new fan due to the fact that I was unable to remove the cut shaft from the old fan. All parts worked great and the dryer assembled back together easily. Works like a new dryer now.
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