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KEYE65 KitchenAid Dryer - Instructions

All Instructions for the KEYE65
91 - 105 of 1379

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couldn't get the wire connection anywhere after we bought the heating element.
6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Betty from Erie, PA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Socket set
we received the two heating element wires in 3 days and connected the heating element with no problem works great.
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Dryer would run, but no heat.
7 of 9 people found this instruction helpful.
  • William from Galion, OH
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Socket set
First I did a search on dryer repair. Found a website that described easy things to check with an ohm-meter. I then performed the continuity checks on the items and found the high-limit one was open, in other words, no good. It works similar to a fuse. All this was done after removing the back panel, just a few screws. The reason it exce eded the high limit, possibly because I never opened the back up and cleaned it. Found out it should be done every couple years. My vent line had a hole in it and was letting lint get drawn into the heating element, could have been a fire.
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My dryer conked. Would not turn on, but before that happened it was taking way too long to dry the clothes and the dryer would stop in the middle of a cycle.
7 of 9 people found this instruction helpful.
  • brenda from Newman Lake, WA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
Went on this website and found a story that was similar. I ordered the parts which arrived quickly and I replaced the Thermal Fuse and heating element and it was fixed! The whole repair cost me $24.88! Way cheaper than calling a repair man.
Heater thing was part # 3387134
and the fuse was 3392519
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dryer had no heat
6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • gary from newcomerstown, OH
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver
My Whirlpool dryer had no heat. I removed the back panel and within minutes diagnosed the problem to a blown thermal cut-off fuse. I ordered a thermal cut-off kit on a Sunday night and had the parts at 7:30am Wednesday morning. Total time for diagnosing and repair was no more than 15 minutes. PartSelect saved me a ton of money and aggrava tion!!! AWESOME!!!!

Gary
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broken rib belt
6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Robert from PEABODY, MA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Followed instructions from video, just removed lint collector, dryer top and front panel, removed broken belt and old idler pulley. Vacuumed and cleaned up inside dryer.installed new pulley and rib belt according to printed instructions,installed new dryer duct and new clamps. Saved myself huge service call or having to buy new dryer.Wil l be checking with this site on any future repairs instead of calling a repair service. Your video made it real easy to repair.and I am 77 years old.. Bob
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dryer only worked if you held the start button down
9 of 15 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Victor from Oakland, CA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers, Wrench set
We took off the back of the control panel, pulled the electric plug, pulled the button off of the front, and removed the push-to-start switch contained in a clear plastic box. We slipped off the three electric wires by hand. We found the part on the website, compared it to the photos given. A few days later we replaced the mailed part r eversing the above. Very easy and cheaper than buying it at the local appliance store which it had to order it anyway.
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the dryer would run for about two mints and shut off
7 of 10 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Albert A Little from brookfield, MA
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
removed the back of the dryer and the thermal fuse and the dryer cycling thermostat were right next replace them and the dryer work like new my dryer is 40 years old and saved a ton of money fixing it myself
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Dryer not Heating
6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Brigitte from Westerville, OH
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
Was not sure what was wrong but the Part Select site allowed us to view other repair issues and solutions. We ordered the kit, it arrived the next day (how is that possible) and easily put the parts in and chaching...money saved and dryer works better than ever. THANKS PartSelect, we give you an eleven and we will recommend you to everyon e.
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Start windings burnt out on original motor (dryer would not start)
7 of 10 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Frank from Smyrna, TN
  • Easy
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
The repair was fairly straight-forward. I removed the front of the dryer, lifted the top off, and then released the tension off the belt dy depressing the pulley arm. Once the belt was off, the drum came right out and then it was on to unhooking the wiring from the old motor. Very simple up till this point. The snag came when I went to un thread the impeller fan off of the old motor shaft. It was permanently sealed onto the shaft so I had to cut the old shaft into using a reciprocating saw was a metal-cutting blade. Once this was done the new motor installed easily exactly like the old one was mounted. I had to also purchase a new fan due to the fact that I was unable to remove the cut shaft from the old fan. All parts worked great and the dryer assembled back together easily. Works like a new dryer now.
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Dryer would not start.
7 of 10 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Rebecca from Scarsdale, NY
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Unplug dryer from mains. Remove the back of the dryer. Thermal fuse is located on the left hand side near the bottom as you face the back of the dryer. Remove fuse and connect new fuse. Never repaired an appliance before and this was so easy!
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Dryer stopped heating
6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Joseph from Austin, TX
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
(Always unplug dryer before making any repairs) I opened the dryer and checked the heating element. Making sure that the connection was good and nothing was damaged, I determined the problem was overheated wires. They melted and lots connection. I replaced them with the heating element wire connection kit. Easy to install and simple t o get right. I cleaned the dryer again with a vaccum cleaner, removing all the lint, and checked the vents, making sure they were clear...I turned the breaker on (it was tripped when the dryer overheated)and everything worked great.
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Motor was bad
5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Michael from CLIFTON HTS, PA
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
I have not received the parts yet waiting on the motor, can’t put the blower fan in without the motor, ordered it , Jan 23rd, still no motor, have to go to laundry mat, have you ever had to do that with 7kids, and you and your wife’s laundry, probably not, because you would have had your motor by now. Maybe you can help me with the part s o I can redo a testimonial here for you. 19 days and still waiting
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Dryer Top Panel is Loose
5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • MONTE from CHESAPEAKE, VA
  • Very Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
1) Unplug power cable from dryer.
2) Remove the 2 screws that secure the chute for lint filter screen with
Phillips head screwdriver.
3) Remove the lint filter screen.
4) Depress plastic locking clip on each side with putty knife to release
tension and lift up top panel to clear the locking clips. Each locking
clip is located 2-1/2 inches from the front edge of side panel.
5) Lift the top panel and lean against the wall for support. If dryer top
panel cannot be raised all the way due to cabinet(s) above, tape
the dryer top panel to cabinet above or have somebody hold the
top panel for temporary support.
6) Install the new metal locking clips. Ensure that the elongated tab
of the metal locking clip is towards the front of dryer. Compress
locking clip lightly with pliers and push down into the hole.
7) Lower the dryer top panel and press it down in place over the metal
locking clips for a tight fit.
8) Reinstall the 2 screws to secure the lint filter chute.
9) Reinstall lint filter screen.
10) Reconnect power cable for dryer.
11) Turn on dryer and inspect that all dryer panels (top, sides and
front) are tight and secured.
Repair Duration: 5 minutes
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Dryer stopping during dry cycle.
8 of 14 people found this instruction helpful.
  • James from HARTSELLE, AL
  • Very Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
First I pulled the dryer away from the wall and unplugged it. Next I removed the dryer vent hose and threw it away and replaced it with a more rigid metal vent hose. Next, I used a socket wrench to removed the screws holding on the back cover of the dryer. Once the back cover was off it was just a matter of using the socket wrench to remo ved the bolt holding the sensor in place. After the part was removed I made sure the replacement was orientated in the same way as the original part and then I unplugged the wires from the bad sensor and placed them in the same order on the new part and then I bolted the new sensor back in place. Since the new part has been installed the dryer is working flawlessly and is not turning off mid-cycle like it was. ***Oh, and an important reminder. When you have the back cover pulled off the dryer use a shop vacuum to suck out any dirt and lint in the back of the dryer and make sure you unbolt the metal chute that the dryer lint screen goes into and clean inside the area near the exhaust blower. This is a VERY IMPORTANT part of servicing your dryer and should be done every few months to help avoid the risk of a fire.****
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Brown Lines on Clean Clothes coming out of Dryer
5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • John from Semmes, AL
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Removed the top and front panel, removed the dryer drum. Removed the worn out rear drum seal. I scraped and sanded the old glue residue from the rear of the drum. I used "0000" steel wool to clean the "brown seal residue" from the rear panel where the new seal on the drum would rub/seal against the rear panel. I used spring clamps to hold the seal in place prior to appling the glue. The glue was applied to the drum/seal and allowed to dry 30-45 min. I replaced the front drum seal (some of the other discussions in your forum had good hints on replacing this seal, better than the printed instructions), also replaced the belt and applied a light amout of lubrication (3 in 1 oil) to the idler pulley and the drum rollers. The dryer runs smoothly and quietly and most importantly no more brown streaks on clean clothes.
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All Instructions for the KEYE65
91 - 105 of 1379