KESS KitchenAid Range - Instructions

On Thanksgiving day, we noticed a chip on the outer aspect of our glass top. The next day we saved ourselves $4200.00 by finding the replacement top at Parts Select, which we never would have imagined they’d have in stock! We ordered it, then paid a fellow (who came on a Sunday morning), to put it in. Total cost of repair to fix an otherw ... Read more ise great range? 800.00 a 3400.00 savings over a new stove. So glad we checked with them before buying a stove with a 5 - 7 year life expectancy to replace what we have. Thank you for stocking these parts!!

The old part, including lightbulb and socket, had corroded into place, and the glass light cover was stuck to the socket. I used a dead blow hammer and a dowel just under the diameter of the hole to tap on the back side of the socket to loosen it and get it out. The metal tabs on the old socket were folded back to make it fit better (?), ... Read more which made it harder to remove. Lots of muscling of the part to get it out. Easy to install new part once old one was out of the way. An experienced person would have removed the old part and installed the new in no time.

I trouble shot and traced out to electrical short in face panel and found burnt wires. I've been a licensed electrician for years and it takes alot of comon sense to trouble shoot and find problem. I found schetch-matic of appliance and searched computor and found partselect.com and tried it. It wasnt no time and the part was at my door. ... Read more Thank you partselect and i would use them again in the future. billy

I have KitchenAid convection oven that is about ten years old . The hinge on the left hand side broke so I had to replace it. It took me about 2 hours to get the job done because I cleaned the door as I went . The change out while fairly strait forward did take some time . A lot longer the some of the people said .

Tools required - #2 Phillips and needle nose pliers. (possibly a new spade connector and stripper/crimper) (possibly a multi-meter)

Shut off the power and slide the range forward about 8-10 inches from the wall. It does not need to be completely in the open and perhaps would not need to be moved at all. Some of the parts may ... Read more be stuck with accumulation of cooking debris and grease, depending on age. Disassembly will be a bit more difficult than a new range because of this. Clean everything up before reassembly.

Open the oven door. Remove two screws, one on either side, below the control panel. Lift and work the control panel loose. It has two bullet shaped posts that engage slots in the front of the range. These are tight. Be patient and work it by lifting and pulling and wiggling the entire control panel. When loose, it will lay down flat supported by all of the wiring harnesses. In our case it did not stress the wires. If concerned, support it somehow.

There is a galvanized bracket that runs most of the width of the range and retains a rubber gasket on the front edge of the glass. Remove two screws that hold this bracket. The bracket easily comes loose, set it aside.

There is a stainless steel trim piece on each side of the cooktop, running from front to back. Each one is held in place by one screw in the front. Remove the screws and the two trim pieces will slide forward and can be removed. Set them aside.

There is a rubber gasket across the front edge of the glass cook surface. Remove it. The cooktop glass can now be lifted and worked loose from the rear rubber gasket that seals across the back edge. Set the cooking surface aside in a safe place. You now have access to the burner elements.

Using the needle nose pliers, work the spade terminal connectors loose from the burner that is to be replaced. Note their positions. The burner is held in place by two spring clips that attach the burner to a galvanized support bar that runs from front to back of the range. A screwdriver can be used to compress each clip allowing a tab to be lifted out of a slot in the galvanized bar. If needed, you can remove one front screw that holds the bar in place and lift it for better access, but while this is not necessary, it allows for a better view of the retainer clips and the tabs that fit into slots in the support bar. With both clips released, the burner is free to be removed.

Our burner clearly had a break in the coil, so there was no doubt about the cause of non-functionality.

The spring clips must be removed and transferred to the new burner. With both burners, face down on a bench, remove the screws that retain the clips to the old burner. Make note of the index numbers at the position of the old clips and place them at the same position on the new burner. This positions the burner when it is mounted so that the terminals are properly positioned to allow the wiring harness to be attached as it was.

With the spring clips in place on the new burner, place the burner back in the range and engage the tabs in the slots on the support bar. They will snap back into place. Reconnect the spade connectors. The burner should now be tested before reassembly. (see later)

In our case, when power was reestablished (but burner control in the off position) the Surface Hot light was on art all times, so we knew something was wired wrong, even though it was re-connected exactly as it had previously been. There are slight differences between the new burners and old burners that apparently impact the wiring. There are no markings on either the old burner or new burner to give clues as to how it should be wired. Neither was there any advice in the instruction sheet that came with the new burner. We tested all of the terminals with the power on (burner off) to determine what voltages were where and removed the cover of the small box to which the terminals are attached. This box contains small switches, and we were able to determine the new wiring scheme. By wiring it exactly as it originally was, we had inadvertently put power to the Surface Hot light full time and the same potential to both sides of the coil so it would not heat. With this corrected, it worked fine.

As always, reassembly is just the reveres of the steps taken to disassemble. It is a bit tricky to place the glass back in the rear gasket. Just be careful and work it into place. Also the front control panel can be challenging. Line up the bullets with the slots and work it into place. It will snap into place when it is close with the aid of the heel of your hand.

One other note. One of the four wires in the harness had a smaller female spade connector which had to be cut off and a new one crimped on in order to fit the new burner.

Because of the wiring logic issue that had to be troubleshot, this took about three hours, which included disassembly and reassembly twice (because we reassembled before testing), figurin

Replaced damaged drawer roller: easy peasy!

The nylon roller was very easy to install. Although rather pricey for what the part was, it was shipped immediately and got the job done. Took all of 5 minutes to do. I wish all my repair jobs were that easy.

It was alittle difficult at 1st to remove the clips that held in the socket. But once out everything went smoothly.

Only one screwdriver needed for this simple repair. Unfortunately for me it did not repair my oven and a new code on the oven indicated a bigger problem with computer board.
Part Select was great to work with and accepted a return and promptly refunded me for the part.
Thank you!

removed the top cap which held the control board - unplugged the old one & plugged in the new one - worked perfectly- had to be careful as the new one was plugged in & attached with 2 screws

Took the back off the stove, removed 2 screws, unclipped the bad sensor, clipped the new one on, put the screws back in and the back of the stove back on and that was it - 10 minutes

DISCONNECTED POWER AND GAS TO THE RANGE. REMOVED 6 SCREWS FROM REAR OF THE RANGE. REMOVED THE 2 SCREWS HOLDING THE TEMPERATURE SENSOR IN PLACE. DISCONNECTED THE LEAD FOR THE SENSOR. INSTALLED NEW SENSOR IN REVERSE ORDER. OVEN WORKING PROPERLY NOW.

Using the video from PartSelect I followed the steps shown. Sliding the range out was difficult so I tilted it forward resting the frame on a 5 gallon plastic bucket. I did have to crimp on a new terminal. The repair was straightforward.

I was stopped by the third screw on the roof of the oven, which was slightly rusted and would not budge in spite of using WD40! I had to enlist the aid of my son who arrived with better tools, including a SQUARE phillips head socket set. He also had to spend some time pinching and slightly reconfiguring one of the attachments in the bac ... Read more k which did not slide together naturally. So, for an 82 year old retired housewife this was not as simple as it looked, but it was a piece of cake for guys like Erik with the know-how and the proper tools!

First BE SURE TO TURN OFF THE CIRCUIT BREAKER!!! Remove the oven door if you need to get closer to the work. Then remove the screws securing the the element to the the oven. There were two on each side in the back where the element goes they the wall and two more that held the element to the upper surface. Carefully pull the element out t ... Read more o gain access to the wires and terminals. Gently pull each wire off one at a time, being sure not to allow the wire to get pulled back into the rear part of the oven. Reconnect each wire securely to the new element. Doubly check each connection! Then replace each screw and you should be set!