KESS KitchenAid Range - Instructions

Removed all terminals and block mounting screws. Repaired one burnt terminal and reassembled. Replacement part was an exact fit and reassembly whnet very well.

Removed broken glass cover and bulb, cleaned old gasket off with damp cloth and replaced with new bulb, glass cover and gasket. No tools needed.

After unplugging electric service, loosened 3 Philips-head screws holding 3 wires from range and loosened 3 nuts holding wires from electric cord. Also removed 1 Philips-head screw holding grounding tab. Removed 2 Philips-head screws and removed the old block. Mounted new block with those screws and replaced and tightened all 6 wires.

Repair was very straightforward. Based on information gathered from an earlier post about the same repair I simply removed all screws from the oven door. These were all located on the bottom edge of the door itself. Upon removal of the screws the door separated and exposed the "core" where I then had access to the hinges which were hel ... Read more d in by one screw each. I removed the broken hinge, replaced it with the new hinge, pieced the door back together, put back all the screws, and the repair was complete.

took apart and empty the broken glass!
ordered parts
too many glasses and no insulation ( no insulation in oven door when taken apart!
Got the correct parts on order via a second sales person!
Installed glass hinges, insulation and closed the door! and instaleed the oven door!

The U TUBE videos were exst ... Read more remely helpful!

Your online video was a great help.

I first did a search with my issue, found out there were many others with the same issue. That then led me to see the part, a fuse / thermostat, was the culprit and easy to replace it seemed. But first called a service co. who confirmed my findings, and quoted a fix of a $2-300! So I bought the part; worse case I'd have someone else ins ... Read more tall. The web site noted the few screws to remove and a key suggestion to find a box of same height to easily slide out oven; I used a porter cable nail gun case which worked great. Took my time removing trim, mounting screws etc., slid out oven easy. Removed back plate and there was the older one. Removed and installed new in a minute. Spent more time cleaning around trim than actual install. What a great day it was. Wife was happy too!

Disconnect the sensor harness and checked resistance on the sensor,should read around 1100 ohm I only got 25.The sensor is mounted in the oven cavity back wall below upper element,the door must be removed. Unscrew 2 Philips head screw,unhook the harness,install new sensor,reconnect harness,install screws.

First I cut off power ! 2 screws for oven trim,4 more to disconnect from cabinet. Hardest part was pulling oven out and pushing back in. I found a big box of correct size to rest it on so I didn't need to disconnect the powerline. 8 more screws to remove the back panel. 2 screws to remove the thermostat.Then put it back together. New par ... Read more t had arrived sooner than expected, cost of the part was less than a minimum service call would have been! I absolutly will use your site again.PS Wife was amazed and now thinks I'm a genious.

Remove rear panel - remove sensor from inside - unplug from rear - reverse to install - did not fix problem

1993 model oven, built in wall model, so didn't to remove oven for the normal rear access to replace the lamp socket. As someone else posted, replacement can be done from inside the oven -- BUT the socket removal was more complex than just 'twisting it out.' But below worked! (1) Turned off oven power at circuit breaker panel. To facilit ... Read more ate working in the oven compartment, removed oven door (2 screws on back of door), raised the over door almost closed, put 2 large nails through the hinge holes when they lined up. Lifted the door out (heavy ~20-25 lbs) and put aside. (2) Put work light inside oven. (3) unscrew glass socket lens and the bulb). (3) Using inspection mirror, studied the inside of the socket to determine that its lock tab type and locations -> were on left and right sides of the socket. These tabs needed to be bent in, but they were each held out by a small circumferential length of think metal, a tab about 3/16" x 3/8". These small tabs could be moved/positioned by just finger friction, with a little start with a screwdriver tip on their edge! I got an end positioned to put sharp screwdriver under that end, then pried it (bent it) inward a short distance. Enough to use needle-nosed pliers to pull it completely out - came fairly easily. Repeated on other side of socket. (4) Then, with pliers, bent each of the 4 locking tabs inward a short distance, Used sharp tool to get one socket edge lifted a small amount; then use mini-pry bar and screwdriver to gently pry around the socket in steps, working evenly around its edge. At about 3/8", it was free. Lifted it inward gently so as not to damage the insulation of the 2 wires attached to its rear. Noted the direction of the wire tabs was straight up (keep same orientation on new socket). (5) Needle-nosed pliers on each connector to gently work the connectors off their socket tabs. Note one tab is larger than the other. Keep the wires inside the oven compartment. Don't damage the insulation. (6) Pushed the wire connectors onto their respective new socket tabs. Aligned socket with the tabs upward, and inserted it, careful to nurse the wires back into the oven wall hole; press socket into the hole, pushing it in evenly and firmly until flush. (7) Pushed in the new type bulb that came with new Socket. Turned on power, and light came on. (8) screwed on new glass cover. (9) Lifted oven back onto the hinge prongs. (easier with two people to get the prongs aligned and into their door slots.) Worked door left and right to get it to lower down fully. Removed nails, lowered door, and put its 2 screws back on. (10) Poured a glass of wine.

Shut off power at breaker and removed oven door to lessen weight. Removed oven trim and retaining screws and tried pulling out of cabinet. Stuck on power cable, so had to remove Mircrowave oven above to get to power cable plug. Removed oven back cover panel to access thermostat. Easy to unplug and replace with new thermostat. Reassemb ... Read more led and turned on power. Cooked dinner in oven.

REMOVE BACK COVER. UN PLUG, REMOVE TWO SCREWS IN SIDE OVEN, PULL OUT , REPLACE, REATTACH, FIXED CODE F-3

Unscrewed about 10 screws to disassemble the door to get at the hinge then screw new hinge in. Was inspired by the woman who said she did it while watching a child. I saved $200 in the repair fee I was quoted

I removed the two stainless trim pieces (2 screws) and then two screws which hold the oven frame to the cabinet. Be careful to put a pad on your floor before you pull the oven out of the cabinet as there are sharp edges on the bottom of the oven. I removed apprximately 12 screws holding the back panel in place. The fixed set point ther ... Read more mostat is in middle toward the top of the oven cavity after removing the rear panel. Just remove two screws and slide the terminal connectors onto the new thermostat. Very easy job for someone who is not too handy.