EasyApplianceParts is now PartSelect! We've merged our sites to provide a better shopping experience for you.   Full Details
✖

Find Parts

Parts Departments

Top Model Types

Top Brands

Repair Help

Expert Repair Videos

Keep typing for more specific results...

KERS2 KitchenAid Range - Instructions

All Instructions for the KERS2
106 - 120 of 409

Search repair tips from other customers using simple keywords like "replace", "fit", "remove", "inspect". DIY doesn't mean you have to do it alone!

Search filter:
Clear Filter
Your search term must have 3 or more characters.
Oven erratic, not heating correctly, timer beeper sounding
3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Dave from SANTA BARBARA, CA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
The video indicating •unscrew old sensor, •pull wiring, •unplug old sensor, and •plug in replacement was good until I pulled the old one and saw wire nuts behind the small square hole! After some research, I learned that the nuts COULD come through that small hole with use of needle nose pliers. One of the wire nuts had the edges pinched off (chipped) in the process. Then I learned about ceramic wire nuts, which I'd never previously encountered. Very important if you don't want to melt your nuts! I cut and stripped the end of a disconnect plug to the stove wiring and now I have a plug in place; which, hopefully, I'll never need to use.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
the largest element was onlly heating the outer half of the ring.
4 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Robert from MARSHFIELD, WI
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
very easy to do all in all. I would add that there is a need to loosen the electrical clips by spreading the undersides of the clips open slightly before disengaging from male counterpart. Also the main electrical connectors at the back of the glass top will only go back together one way so no need to worry about getting them upside down. If you have small hands and arms it is advantageous there was very little working space at the rear when the top is slid forward. Never let anyone tell you that these elements are hard to change. They are either ignorant of the truth, or trying to sell you a new stove.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
Burned out stove top element
4 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • rick from colorado springs, CO
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Unplugged the power cord first. Opened oven door and removed the two screws that held the stove top glass down. Lifted the glass top and removed the four wires connected to the element. I taped the wires to the lid in the pattern they were attached to the element. remove the element from the brackets. The new element was an exact mat ch. reversed the sequence. Put a pot of water on and boiled a hot dog! Perfect! Great part and speedy delivery!!
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
My wife dropped a cast iron dish on the door while it was open, bent the hinges, so it would not close properly.
4 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Barry from Barre, VT
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
It was really easy, just lift the door off from the range, I set it down on the box that the hinges came in, took the six screws out to release the front fascia of the door from the back, hinges are right there, un-screw and install the new hinges, put everything back together in reverse and lift the door back on to the range, less than 1 0 minutes!
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
Right Side Rear Burner Not Working
3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • WILLIAM from TAMPA, FL
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Only hitch I experienced was identifying the correct replacement. The original diagram presented the accurate shape of the element my range required. However a different shaped element was displayed when I noted my unit is a series 12 serial number. I ordered it (with reservations) and as it turned out the replacement was identica l to mine. Next time I will have a lil more confidence in the instructions given.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
Bake element failed
3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jeff from HOLLYWOOD, MD
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Unplug range, remove cover from back of range disconnect red wires from element spade connectors. Remove oven racks, remove two screws from back of bottom tray, and remove tray. Remove screw from element bracket and remove element. Install new element and repeat steps in reverse order. Done.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
The oven light shorted out causing the safety thermostat to blow.
4 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Joseph K from PAHRUMP, NV
  • Very Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
Replaced the safety thermostat and disconnected the oven light.
Works great again...without the light
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
the old gaskt was not linge dup well, the door was not closing well
6 of 12 people found this instruction helpful.
  • mohaemd from pittsburgh, PA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
pulled the old gasket, the new one fitted perfectly. No effort at all.
An instruction sheet would be a bonus. I wish you put instruction sheet in all parts OR a web link for video instructions. a web link would be great
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
Bottom oven was replaced
3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Cynthia from CANDLER, NC
  • Very Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Took out 2 screws took old one out an put new one in it even came with a heating element to replace which was sooo very nice! I had very good service from ordering to receiving! Everyone was very nice I will deal with this company again!
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
Oven stopped heating, error message stated heating element
3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Lana from WATERVILLE, ME
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Very easy. Pulled the stove away from the wall. Used a screw driver to remove the two nuts to release the heat sensor, disconnected the wire, removed the sensor. Inserted the new sensor, plugged back into the circuit. put the two nuts back.
Beware, if the first time you put the oven on, if the error message comes back up (mine did ) push the cancel/off button, wait a few minutes, put oven back on. System probably needed to reset. Mine worked perfectly after.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
Burned out heating element.
3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Kenneth from AUBURNDALE, FL
  • Very Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
I watched the video you provide and it answered all my questions. You estimate repair at 10 minutes. My wife said I waz done in under 10 minutes Watch the video, it explained every step and all the little tricks to the snap connections.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
Oven Temp inaccurate
3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • David from BURNSVILLE, MN
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
I watched the repair video on this site and another on YouTube before I started. The rear panel has a different shape and two additional screws on the bottom edge. The power clip was easy to manipulate.
This was an easy fix for a seventy year-old like me!
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
Oven lamp socket had broken center electric tab - failed.
3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Stan from FLAT ROCK, NC
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
1993 model oven, built in wall model, so didn't to remove oven for the normal rear access to replace the lamp socket. As someone else posted, replacement can be done from inside the oven -- BUT the socket removal was more complex than just 'twisting it out.' But below worked! (1) Turned off oven power at circuit breaker panel. To facilit ate working in the oven compartment, removed oven door (2 screws on back of door), raised the over door almost closed, put 2 large nails through the hinge holes when they lined up. Lifted the door out (heavy ~20-25 lbs) and put aside. (2) Put work light inside oven. (3) unscrew glass socket lens and the bulb). (3) Using inspection mirror, studied the inside of the socket to determine that its lock tab type and locations -> were on left and right sides of the socket. These tabs needed to be bent in, but they were each held out by a small circumferential length of think metal, a tab about 3/16" x 3/8". These small tabs could be moved/positioned by just finger friction, with a little start with a screwdriver tip on their edge! I got an end positioned to put sharp screwdriver under that end, then pried it (bent it) inward a short distance. Enough to use needle-nosed pliers to pull it completely out - came fairly easily. Repeated on other side of socket. (4) Then, with pliers, bent each of the 4 locking tabs inward a short distance, Used sharp tool to get one socket edge lifted a small amount; then use mini-pry bar and screwdriver to gently pry around the socket in steps, working evenly around its edge. At about 3/8", it was free. Lifted it inward gently so as not to damage the insulation of the 2 wires attached to its rear. Noted the direction of the wire tabs was straight up (keep same orientation on new socket). (5) Needle-nosed pliers on each connector to gently work the connectors off their socket tabs. Note one tab is larger than the other. Keep the wires inside the oven compartment. Don't damage the insulation. (6) Pushed the wire connectors onto their respective new socket tabs. Aligned socket with the tabs upward, and inserted it, careful to nurse the wires back into the oven wall hole; press socket into the hole, pushing it in evenly and firmly until flush. (7) Pushed in the new type bulb that came with new Socket. Turned on power, and light came on. (8) screwed on new glass cover. (9) Lifted oven back onto the hinge prongs. (easier with two people to get the prongs aligned and into their door slots.) Worked door left and right to get it to lower down fully. Removed nails, lowered door, and put its 2 screws back on. (10) Poured a glass of wine.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
broken oven door inner glass pane.
4 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Adam from modesto, CA
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
Remove the door, remove screws from all sides

Remove sides and face of oven door by sliding down from under the oven handle trim.

Remove screws on 2nd light of glass and set aside.

Now you are at the inner door panes. their should be two in an insulated type unit.

Remove the remaining screws from the handle pracket and the permiter frame for the glass/insulation. Remove permiter frame and set aside.

Pull out inner door glass frame. get a pair of pliers and bend tab on frame up so you can pull the frame sightly apart, replace the glass, secure frame tightly around glass slide tab back into reciever slot and bend down ( you may need another person to assist in keeping both lights in the frame while trying to ben tab back in to place)

reassemble door as it came apart carefull not to over tighten the screws, they strip easy.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
The bottom heating element was damaged and needed to be replaced.
3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Anne from DREXEL HILL, PA
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
Followed a video I found online showing how to replace the bottom bake element. It was very easy to do. I simply unplugged the over, removed the back wire cover and detached the damaged element connectors.

I then removed the bottom oven cover which conceals the element. Unscrewed and removed the damaged element and replaced it with the new one. Connected the wires to the new element and then Installed the bottom cover along with the back wire cover and plugged the oven back in. It was really this easy.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
All Instructions for the KERS2
106 - 120 of 409