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KERS2 KitchenAid Range - Instructions

All Instructions for the KERS2
16 - 30 of 409

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Burned terminal block and filter board
95 of 208 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Joseph from Decatur, GA
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
Removed and replaced above named parts, rewired.Be sure to tighten all nuts that secure wires. I believe this is what caused the problem.
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Socket Light had a bad thread
44 of 65 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Edmund from Emporium, PA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
Socket Lite come with clips attached to the outside
of the housing. After you unhook the 3 lead wires
that are attached to the unit. All you have to do is push in on the clips and release the unit. Then you
snap in the new unit. Attach the 3 wire leads, put a
oven bulb in the socket end, and the install the light cove r
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glass cooktop element stopped working
35 of 41 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Mark from mckinney, TX
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
3 months after my 5 year warranty ran out, one of the elements on my wife's maytag cooktop "popped". I was curious to see if I could fix it myself and ran across partselect.com via google. Their step by step instructions for determining the source of the problem (i.e. either the element or the control was bad) led me to realize that the element was bad. I ordered a new one -- which arrived in 3 days! It was very easy to replace the element, since I had already taken the glass cooktop off of the range during the testing phase. Thanks partselect.com!
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Repeated oven temperature sensor fault codes.
35 of 43 people found this instruction helpful.
  • David from Arlington, VA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
First I removed the two philips screws inside the oven that hold the element in place. Then I pulled the sensor out and the two insulated wires through the hole to reveal the plastic connector. I unsnapped it from the connector and replaced it with the new element. Then, behind the oven, I removed five or six philips screws on the righ t side of the large panel so I could pull the wires back through the layer of fiberglass insulation to make sure only the sensor itself would be exposed to the oven's heat. I then secured the back panel again and replaced the two philips screws holding the sensor in place.
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The old switch broke off.
34 of 45 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Bruce from Pasadena, MD
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
Removed two screws that held the unit in then pulled out a few inches so I could see where the 5 wires were. Then I replaced one at a time till done. then replaced the retaining screws.
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Oven Bake Element bad
33 of 43 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Bryan from ROME, NY
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
1. Unplugged stove
2. Removed two (2) screws from bottom panel in oven cavity
3. Lifted out bottom panel
4. Removed two (2) screws from bake element standoffs.
5. Removed two (2) screws from bake element (Rear of oven cavity)
6. Removed Terminal Block Cover Box by removing two (2) screws and lifting up on it. ... Read more >7. Removed lugs from the ends of the bake element.
8. Extracted bake element.
9 Inserted bake element through rear opening and attached the two lugs removed in step 7.
10 Inserted two screws removed in step 5.
11. This bake element only had a standoff bracket in the front. Used one (1) screw from step 4. for front standoff.
12 Replaced bottom panel and two screws.
13 Reinstalled Terminal Block Cover Box and two screws.
14. Plugged oven in and tested oven.
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Oven stuck in cleaning mode
48 of 88 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Hal from Santa Rosa, CA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Google the error code that the range was displaying and found others with the same symptoms. Then found several people that had fixed the problem by replacing the oven sensor. I then ordered the sensor and replaced it, which fixed the problem.
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Burner was not heating up
33 of 48 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Gary from Hellertown, PA
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Puled out the electical plug . Removed the back panel. Pulled off the switch knob. Removed the 2 screws holding the switch. Took the wires off of the old switch and placed them on the corespondig connector on the new switch. Put everything back in reverse order.
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oven door inner glass pane broke
24 of 24 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Kimberly from Ascutney, VT
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
removed oven door, removed screws from bottom and sided, door is in layers, removed door layers like taking apart a sanwhich layer by layer, once i got to the inner layer i just had to bend out the little tab on the frame,remove the broken pane and place in the new one, bend the tab back and then put the door back together layer by lay er, it was very easy and saved me money, and frustration in dealing with a repair man from a well known company who tried to tell me I needed to replace the whole door as the glass was factory sealed in the door, WELL! this girl's hair may be blonde but not that blonde, I received the glass the very next day, and it took me 40 minutes tops to replace the glass, EASY! KC
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Oven wouldn't heat the right temperature (you would have to add 100 degrees on to it)
26 of 36 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Claudine from Bethlehem, PA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Pulled oven out of the cabinet/wall and pulled sensor out and replaced with new one.
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Built in oven would shut down: fault code F-4
22 of 24 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Edward from Juliustown, NJ
  • A Bit Difficult
  • More than 2 hours
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
A few years previously I had this same problem and a PROFESSIONAL had replaced the sensor.
Thus this time I knew what the failure was and obtained the sensor from Part Select. Having observed the PROFESSIONAL replace the sensor before; I followed his easy technec only to learn that when the sensor was pulled from the aft wall of the oven that the wires had deteriorated and the plastic plug melted. Therefore it was neccessary to remove the oven from the wall cabinet. Then I removed the panel from the back outside of the oven, cut back the wires and because the kit from Part Select contained additional connectors was able to splice in a replacement connector. Installed the new sensor and reinstalled the oven. LESSON LEARNED; when the PROFESSIONAL had replaced the sensor he had failed to feed the wiring and plug back past the insulated chamber, directly behind the oven, into the cool area assessable by the panel on the aft side of the oven thus the plug and wires were exposed to the heat of the oven. What would commonly be a few minutes job turned into an afternoon project.
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Glass top stove element stopped working
25 of 35 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Robert from Fruitland Park, FL
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
really easy! Removed 2 screws under the glass top at the front, access from the open oven door, then removed the ground wire, removed the stove top, took the element holder off,( 2 screws)and replaced with new element, 30 minutes. I ordered the part and came within 18 hrs of ordering it, fantastic experience.
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Inside brass liner in socket came out when bulb was removed. Apparently had welded itself to the base of the bulb
21 of 26 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Lewis from Chapin, SC
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Removed oven from wall unit and took the back off. Removed the old socket assembly by depressing the ears and forcing unit into the oven. The electrical wires were easily removed since they are spade connections and slip off. They also are different sizes so that there is no chance of erroneously putting them back in an incorrect order. The new unit simply slips in from the front and snaps into place. The most difficult part of the entire process is removing the old unit. A little "friendly persuasion" is required to get the old unit out.
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Oven failed to maintain the set temperature.
18 of 19 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Thomas from Clarksville, MD
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Socket set
Removed the old sensor by removing two screws and pulling the wire out through the hole. Disconnected the connector and discarded the old sensor.
Selected the correct connector of the 3 provided, plugged the new sensor in and threaded the wire back into the hole paying special attention to make sure wire and connector was on the bac kside of the insulation. Assembled the two screws and tightened.
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right rear burner was inop for last 4 years
19 of 23 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Thomas from Steinhatchee, FL
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver
1. tripped circuit breaker for stovetop
2. pulled the stove top out of its cabinet.
3. turned in over carefully due to the glass cooking surface.
4. used 1/4 inch nutdriver on cordless drill to remove all the screws holding the lower cover in place. lifted cover off without removing completely as power wires still attached.
5. did continuity test on burner and found it open circuit while all the other 3 burners had continuity.
6. removed defective burner by removing two more screws and saw element was fried on the cooking side.
7. wrote down all part numbers and put it all back together.
8. changed the burner out when new one arrived by repeating steps 1 thru 6. Pay attention to the correct wiring setup. Do one wire at a time to make sure you don't mess up. MAKE SURE THE CIRCUIT BREAKER IS TRIPPED BEFORE YOU KILL YOUR SELF.

Have a tall one to celebrate the savings of two repair man call out fee's of minimum $60 each time and paying list price for the element. You probably just saved yourself $150.
Tom in Steinhatchee
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All Instructions for the KERS2
16 - 30 of 409