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KERC601 KitchenAid Range - Instructions

All Instructions for the KERC601
121 - 135 of 217

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Dual Surface Burner Pilot Light On All The Time Element Would Not Heat Up
  • Rick from boca raton, FL
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Followed included instructions transfered wires from old dual burner switch to new dual burner switch per the instuctions the new switch did not look exactly like the original switch but the instructions tell you how to wire it up. It works fine now,
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Wires are to short.
  • Timm from Orleans, MA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
One screw on each of the two cover plates removed, then element is pulled out enough to get at the connections. These are small blade connectors that slide off, two on each side, so 4 all together. The problem for me was that on one side the wires were to short and as soon as the blade connection was released the wire pulled back through the hole and was difficult to retrieve because it was hiding in the insulation. If I were to do this again I would use a small zip tie around the wire before disconnecting it so I would have something to pull it back out with.
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27 year old Chambers Oven, Chambers out of business, Whirlpool helped
  • Donald L from Lancaster, CA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
The oven light gasket had deteriorated with time and bulb changes. It is a self cleaning oven, which gets very hot during the cleaning cycle. The oven is old (27years) and off the "books" I selected a similar, but slightly smaller gasket (3" OD), and "fit" it to the 3.5" light fixture of the older oven. The gasket material was similar to the original, and I used a usable portion of the original,along with the new gasket to build a gasket for the light lense. Several years prior to this repair, I replaced the oven door springs. Whirlpool, who had taken over what was left of Chambers, had the springs. I did replace one heating element about 15 years ago. The Chamber's salesman told me that the Chambers was the "Cadillac" of all ovens, and it seems to keep running.
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Inner door glass
  • Anthony from East Islip, NY
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
Took door apart no problem had a little trouble putting it back together just one piece I put back wrong had to start over not to bad still took less then one hour
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inner glass oven door shatterred
  • Wilma from Sanford, NC
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers, Wrench set
I was not around the entire time a neighbor was working to get the door removed. He only said he had to remove an additional screw so I'm not sure I can be of much help here.Once the door was removed however, the repair went easily. I would tell anyone needing this repair to be prepared to clean a number of crevices around the door. I was glad to have a chance to clean these hidden places.Let me also said customer service rep was wonderful.
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Part of Broil element not working
  • James W. from Zephyrhills, FL
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Removed rear panel (6 screws) and disconnected the four connectors on the Broil element. Then removed the 4 screws holding the the element to the top of the oven cavity. Inserted new element and connected the 4 screws to secure it. Connected the four connectors and re-installed the rear panel.
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Replace damaged burner switch
  • Thomas from Plymouth, MN
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
Unscrew 3 screws across the front inside the oven door and the 2 screws on each side of the control panel. That allows for lifting the entire control panel from the front to access the switches from underneath. The old switch is held in place by the lug nut under the knob. Once removed, the 5 wires can be disconnected (carefully noting which wire connects to which terminal). The new switch is then connected, and then fastened back into place with the lug nut. The control panel is then re-secured by the five screws
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Dual element burner would not turn off
  • Michael from Aurora, CO
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
Remove three Phillips screws underneath front edge, raise front edge and lay it back on stovetop. Pull knob straight off, use pliers to loosen nut holding switch in place, remove nut. I took photos of the old switch with wires attached that also showed the numbers on the terminals in case I pulled off too many at once. The new switch isn' t arranged the same as the old one, but follow the conversion table, and it will work fine. Remove and replace one wire at a time. When replacing the control panel don't try to just lay it flat and slide it back on -- it won't work. Easier if you hold it at about 90 degrees and pivot it back onto the rubber seal at the edge of the stovetop. Re-install the three screws, and you're done. The new switch fixed the problem perfectly. I took apart the old switch and found a broken metal piece inside, so I was confident this was the problem, and not some other component.
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F 3 error
  • Art from Parma, OH
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Socket set
I did the repair following your instructions and it went very well. Now the temperature is working good , but the oven is heating up very slow. So now what should I do to fix the oven?
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Replaced defunct bake element in oven
  • Marcia from Atlanta, GA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
The part came in 2 days even though I chose the least expensive shipping method. The hardest part was unscrewing the old screws that held the old bake element in place. We soaked them in WD40, and after a while were able to unscrew them. The new element slid in place and works just fine.
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No heat from a burner
  • Glenn from Aptos, CA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Although I put 15-30 mins for repair, most of that was taking it apart only to have to put it back until I got the right part. It can be done in 15min or less. FIRST: UNPLUG THE RANGE or Shut the circuit breaker OFF. Remove two screws (1/4" nut driver) on the front lower edge of the cooktop. These are seen once you opent the top oven door . Lift up the top and pull out about two inches and disconnect the multiwire plug in connector. Lift the top off the range and place it upside down on a flat surface (talbe or counter) protected with a towel. Unplug the sliding connectors from the burner unit noticing the correct placement. Remvoe the two tabs (#2 phillips screwdriver) on either side of the burner unit noting location. Take the time to clean up all debris with a vacuum or soft cloth. Install the new burner, connect the two tabs, plug in the connectors, return the top to the range, plug in the multiwire plug, secure the two screws and plug the range back in and start cooking!
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broken interior glass in door
  • sally from franklin, MI
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
pulled door up and out. Disassembled door. removed old glass and rope gasket. installed new glass and gasket.
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The inner heating element was not working
  • DENNIS from ROWLEY, MA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
The range top came off with two screws under the front portion of the glass top (by the oven door). I unplugged the connection plugs at the rear off the range top, unscrewed the rear screws holding the heating unit in place and plugged in new element and reassembled range unit. You need to removed the two phillip head screws at the rear o f the range top in order to remove the bar holding the heating element. Once you do this it is very easy to finish the job.
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Bad tempature sensor
  • Art from Parma, OH
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Socket set
Followed instruction on web site
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The inside oven glass cracked down the middle
  • Phillip from Fort Wayne, IN
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
I was able to remove the door by opening it partially and lifting it up while jiggling it. Once off, I laid it with the inside up on a table and the screws along the bottom facing outward so I could access them easily. I removed the various screws and porcelain covers and sides feel of easily. The inside panel lifted off exposing the inne r glass and frame. The screws and clips had to be sprayed with penetrating oil to remove them. The frame lifted off and the cracked glass was removed. I was careful to wipe away all the fluid used to loosen the frame clips. Assembly was the reverse of this being careful to let pieces fit nicely without force. It would have cost me $39 to have the repair performed assuming I could get the door off. A Phillip's head screwdriver was not adequate to remove the frame clips. You needed a correctly-fitting square drive.
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All Instructions for the KERC601
121 - 135 of 217