KEMC378 KitchenAid Microwave Oven Combo - Instructions

Replacement of the thermal overload safety thermostat very straight forward after sliding unit out, killing power and removing two covers. Tested both old and new and both show continuity (= good). Installed new, restored power and tested for proper operation. Didn't happen. Replaced original and now have new as spare. Now suspect the dou ... Read more ble line break relay on electronic control board is failed and source of problem. It is common to both elements and immediate before the suspected thermostat in circuit.

First I removed the two screws that hold the sensor element in place (from inside the oven). I then pulled the sensor out about three inches and disconnected the two wires, and connected the new sensor. Screwed the sensor back into the back oven wall..

There was some confusion with the repair tech who first thought I would hav ... Read more e to pull the pven out and remove the sensor from the back so that increased the time for repair. After pulling the oven it was obvious that the repair could be made from the inside..
The repair Tech's diagnosis of the problem was correct a nd fast. Part cost $75 on line ($102 from dealer locally). Saved over $125 cost compared to local repair man's visti.and that is a low side guess. Repair tech was very communicative.

Remove 4 screws holding plastic vent between microwave and oven. Take off plastic vent. Remove two metal clamps at bottom of stainless panel (one screw on each clamp). Open door, remove two screws (recessed) at top of door that hold stainless panel (careful as panel is only connected by these screws and is heavy and door will spring sh ... Read more ut without the weight of the panel...even with only one good spring) and put stainless door panel aside.

From bottom of door, remove two screws holding black plastic panel and put plastic panel aside. You should see the broken spring- remove it and replace with new spring. Note - hook the "lower" half of spring (the end with the U hook) first, then wedge/slide the other end until it hooks into slot.

Put parts back together in reverse order.

I used a Google search to show how to access the area behind the front panel. There was a folded paper copy with a schematic and wiring diagram in that space.Then I used a multi-meter to determine which of the THREE micro-switches was causing the problem. I called your help line and ordered a replacement switch. The switch was delayed ... Read more in transit so your agent credited me with the cost of shipping.

When the part arrived, it had three terminals instead of two as shown in the on-line picture but that did not cause any difficulty in using it. It took about 20 minutes to remove and replace the old switch.

All seems to be working well now.

Finding which of the THREE switches was the problem was the most difficult part of the repair. All three "clicked" but the defective one did not click as easily. It needed to be depressed more than the door latch can would provide. Old age?

1)Power off 2) Remove frame covering front timer display - screw on the bottom 3) unscrew time display - 4 screws 4) unsnap lamp spring clip 5)replace lamp

Once I figured out to get the door off, the actual replacement went well.
remove door, using allen wrenches in the holes of the door
remove outer glass - two screws on top, four screws along sides of inside door, two brackets on the bottom
that revealed anothe sheet of glass- held into place by a metal flange at the top (3 ... Read more screws) and two brackets at the bottom. Pay close attention to how they are mounted for reassembly. They are the same physical configuration, but mount differently to hold glass up from the surface below
That reveals another sheet of glass held into place by two "ears" at the top and a bracket at the bottom.
When that is removed, the next thing to come off is a metal housing on which the glass just removed was mounted. I elected to leave the door hinge springs in place, and slide the metal housing in and out of position. That reveals the glass which needed replacement.
There is some insulation around the glass, but under the metal housing. It came out when I slid the metal out, which moved it from its location, but I think I got it back ok...be sure that it does not sitck out around the glass when you reassemble everything. Put everything back in place, replace the door and remove the allen wrenches. Done. Parts select had the product, and sent it very quickly.

Ordered the glass and read the other reviews/instructions on the PartSelect site. Also read the instructions in my owner's manual for removing the oven door. The hardest part of replacing the glass was the removal and replacement of the door. Once I had the door out, replacing the glass was as simple as removing about 8 or so screws, l ... Read more ifting off the cover and replacing the glass, then replacing the screws. One of the hinges on the door had closed and I was not able to open it to replace the door, so I had to have a neighbor come over to over his muscle power. The hinge problem should not have happened and without that little issue, this is a simple repair that I'm sure saved me at least $100.00 on repairman! And - I'm a woman!

This product comes in a bottle with a brush like Liquid Paper. It goes on incredibly easy. A second coat might be needed. I wanted to prevent rust from setting in so I covered the scratches and dings. The paint is a little brighter since my washer is 10 years old but it still looks great.

I used the instructions from another user on this site and the instructions were great. First look in your oven manual to see how to get the oven off-hardest part of repair. Before removing door-duct tape the broken glass. Remove door. Lay door down on flat surface and keep track of screws as you take them out. Remove outer liner-we ... Read more removed 6 screws total. Replace glass with new glass. Reattached outer liner back onto door. Replace door. This is a GREAT site. Thanks.

This is a drop in range so I had to remove the range and set on a dolly. Turn the dolly around and acess the THRMST-FIX that needed replaceing, it was open. put the range back in its place and could still use the rest of stove until I received the parts 2 days later .
Pulled the range out put the new THRMST-FIX in put the range bac ... Read more k together and put the range back in place and it has worked ever since.
GOOD JOB

Took longer to take door off than replace glass.The door would have come off easy if I had read the instructions that came with the oven

I looked at the schematic provided on the website and removed all of the screws wih a phillips head screwdriver. I took care not to scratch the stainless steel surface by placing the oven door on a carpet. I removed the old bent hinges and replaced them with the new hinges. I aligned the holes and replaced the screws. The entire job t ... Read more ook about 20 minutes.

Purchased 2 piece broiler pan from this site

I took out the old chipped dish and replaced with the new dish...

I turned off the power to the oven at the breaker. I then removed the side trim pieces by removing the screws located behind the lower oven door. I removed the plastic trim pieces above and below the microwave oven and removed the control panel and slid it into the opening above the microwave. I located the two screws securing the mic ... Read more rowave into the frame and began sliding it out. I had to disconnect a small wiring harness and two wires from the microwave that were attached inside the opening above the microwave. The microwave section was the easily slid out, turned on it's side where the turntable motor was accessed by removing the access panel. I pulled the old motor, checked resistance and it matched the new motor. I then checked the old motor by applying 120V to it and it ran FINE! I thought I had the wrong part, but decided to install the new motor anyway. I did, secured the access panel and replaced the microwave in the frame. I reconnected the wires and secured the control panel and tested the microwave...and the turntable works!