EasyApplianceParts is now PartSelect! We've merged our sites to provide a better shopping experience for you.   Full Details
✖

Find Parts

Parts Departments

Top Model Types

Top Brands

Repair Help

Expert Repair Videos

Keep typing for more specific results...

KEHC37 KitchenAid Microwave Oven Combo - Instructions

All Instructions for the KEHC37
31 - 45 of 179

Search repair tips from other customers using simple keywords like "replace", "fit", "remove", "inspect". DIY doesn't mean you have to do it alone!

Search filter:
Clear Filter
Your search term must have 3 or more characters.
Microwave Turntable Won't Rotate
11 of 18 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Steven from Sacramento, CA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
I turned off the power to the oven at the breaker. I then removed the side trim pieces by removing the screws located behind the lower oven door. I removed the plastic trim pieces above and below the microwave oven and removed the control panel and slid it into the opening above the microwave. I located the two screws securing the mic rowave into the frame and began sliding it out. I had to disconnect a small wiring harness and two wires from the microwave that were attached inside the opening above the microwave. The microwave section was the easily slid out, turned on it's side where the turntable motor was accessed by removing the access panel. I pulled the old motor, checked resistance and it matched the new motor. I then checked the old motor by applying 120V to it and it ran FINE! I thought I had the wrong part, but decided to install the new motor anyway. I did, secured the access panel and replaced the microwave in the frame. I reconnected the wires and secured the control panel and tested the microwave...and the turntable works!
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
one of the torsion springs was broken in the door- right one
11 of 18 people found this instruction helpful.
  • John from Chelan, WA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Screw drivers
This one is painted model and the door has 2 screws at the bottom and 2 at the top to take out to get the front of the door off. First remove the vent assembly at the bottom of the door by removing the 4 screws.Hold the door together(I finally used a big piece of masking tape to hold the door top together to get it back together). Take th e bottom screws out first and then holding the door front from underneath open the door to get at the top 2 inside screw. and pull it away carefully from the inner door parts and lay it aside on a carpet of towel.Then the fun begins-takingout 2 screws holding the plastic inner door cover to get at the torsion springs at the bottom of the door. these screw ar near each end of the plastic part but the left one is directly above a vent sticking out fromthe back of the oven below. There is only about #/4- i inch space to get a screw driver onto the phillips head screw. I have alot of small screw driers butnot even aphillips head fro a drill driver is short enough to get into the space. I used apreviously bent small screwdiriver to get the screw out. I tried to bend another screwdrover to a shorter dostance but it snapped off in the bending process. I fanally got it out and replaced the broken spring. Tbouth a set of sprnings that were supposed to be the same for left and right sides so I decided to replace oth springs while I had it apart. The right side spring went in fairly easily after figuring out how th thread it into the holes. The unbroken spring wass not so easy. I finally idcovered that the new spring ws not bent the same as the original one and was not going to go in the place of the old one. I ended up putting the old one back in and putting the dooor together with a little difficulty. I replaced the bottom screw on the door with longer ones as well as the upper ones and got a much better job done.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
repalced bulb.
10 of 16 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Nelson from Weeverville, NC
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
The instructions from another customer was helpful. I concur with another comment I read while researching this proceedure. What Idio-- would design a microwave that required pulling the unit from the wall and removing the top panel just to access. It is good idea to unplug the transformer and capacitor wires before proceeding. I also goo gled a schematic to see the parts layout. Remember not to touch the bulb with your fingers. Use a cloth or paper towel.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
Neither bake nor broil elements came on
7 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Rod from Dripping Springs, TX
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Removed four trim pieces; removed four wood screws holding oven in cabinet housing; slid oven out (weighs about 150 lbs and takes two people and a bench to rest oven on. Oven will pull all the way out but not much further because of the electric cord.); Removed back sheet metal cover (bunch of small metal screws); removed wires from b ad unit, unscrewed the bad unit and screwed in the replacement unit.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
No heat to oven, all other controls appear to function
6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Stephen from PLACENTIA, CA
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
Oven stopped heating after attempting a self cleaning cycle. Problem turned out to be failed thermal fuse component. This is an easy repair and well worth the attempt given the replacement cost of the oven.

First step was to locate and shut off the two circuit breakers supplying power to the oven. Then I locked the panel to ens ure someone didnt re-engage the breakers while I was working on the unit. (Lock out / Tag out).

Second step was sliding the oven out of the cabinet - this unit is located below a cooking top and was just the perfect height to allow a furniture dolly to be used to support the oven as I slid it out.

The unit is 'hard wired' (i.e. no power plug) so it can only be pulled out so far from the cabinet, but there was sufficient reach to allow access to and removal of the sheet metal cover at the rear of the oven to expose the thermal fuse and the read wiring. I proceeded with care, assuming the power was still on and once the terminals of the thermal fuse were exposed I performed a voltage measurement to ground on each side of the fuse to ensure power was in fact off.

Then I used an insulated pliers to gently remove the wire harness at each side of the fuse, and once the wires were removed I performed a continuity check of the suspect fuse, and confirmed it was an open circuit (i.e. failed).

Removal of two more screws allowed the fuse to be removed and the new fuse was installed, reversing the procedure.

This was followed by replacement of the rear sheet metal and finally sliding the oven back into its place in the cabinet using the furniture dolly. This is a single oven but still very heavy and has some sharp sheet metal edges likely to cause cuts if not handled with care so the dolly and a second set of hands (and good gloves) are nice to have.

Finally, after inspecting the oven door gasket and other air vents around the outside of the oven to identify suspect causes of the overheating event that tripped the fuse, the air vents above and below and within the door were cleared of dust-bunnies and other debris that had collected, possibly causing interference with the air flow that cools the area in between the oven and the cabinet. This blockage may have been the root cause of the fuse failure - i.e. the air did get too hot back there and had the fuse not tripped it would have been dangerous. The door gasket looked fine although its also an easy replacement and does not require oven removal.

The new part fit perfectly - it was a different design than the original part that shipped with the oven but appears to function perfectly so no complaints. The trip temperature is identical to the OEM part based upon the nomenclature on the back of the OEM and the replacement fuse part.

Unlocked the power panel and turned on the two breakers to the oven, set the clock and checked operation and its functioning great now.

Have not run a self cleaning operation since the repair but that is the next step and now that those door vents are clear I suspect that the fuse wont trip again.

Lesson Learned: Check those vents for obstructions.

Similar oven selling at discount because its the end of the model year is now priced at over $1100. Fixed our unit for $50 and the added cost of a $20 furniture dolly that I already wanted to buy.

Give this repair a try its a piece of cake and well worth the effort.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
quit heating
8 of 12 people found this instruction helpful.
  • karen from bismarck, ND
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
I have a rental and the tenant called. She said that she had a repair man out to fix the oven but he couldn't~that it needed to be replaced as he could not get parts.I contacted your company via phone and the person was so helpful~he asked the problem, looked up the model and advised me on this!It works like a brand new oven!Thanks you
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
My son broke the cooking tray to the microwave
6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
  • David from oceanside, CA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
I just placed the tray in and was done. The kicker is that i cannot use my microwave without the tray. so i was without my microwave for 2 weeks before i called parts select. they were quick and fast.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
missing support; broken tray
10 of 19 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Donald from Galloway, NJ
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
easily IDed parts; ordered, here 3 days later. very convenient. no hassle. no wasted time going from place to place or calling everyone in yellow pages.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
Worn door gasket, leaked steam while cooking
6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
  • John from VIENNA, VA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Used a Phillips head screw driver to remove cover that was covering the over bottom 1/3 of the installed gasket. I then used flathead screwdriver to help remove gasket from the "pins" that were in the gasket that held it to the oven. Installed new gasket inserting pins into the oven. Then I installed cover over bottom 1/3 of gasket. O verall process was very easy
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
oven wouldn't heat after self-cleaning the oven
10 of 20 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Joi from Higginsville, MO
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
The website and diagram of my oven helped me know exactly what was wrong and where to locate the problem. I simply removed the oven door and the trim, pulled the oven out of the wall. After removing the back panel I located the part and put in the new part. Then reversed the procedure.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
bUILT IN OVEN NOT COMING UP TO TEMPERATURE
5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Kenneth from BUFFALO, NY
  • Very Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Replaced oven temp sensor, removed oven door and interior racks for easy access to oven upper rear sensor access. Used philips head screw driver to remove both screws, gently pulled old senor out of reat oven wall until electrical connector clear of rear wall, disconnected connector, connected new sensor and gently pushed wiring and conne ctor back into opening, reinstalled door and racks. Ran open thru cycle and used oven thermometer to check temp. fast easy install
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
Door spring broke
7 of 11 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Randall from Little Rock, AR
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Open the door and removed the 2 screws that hold the front
glass and stainless steel panel (Hold on to the door handle
or the face and glass will come crashing to the floor; learned this after the first time a couple of years ago $$$). Set the stainless steel panel in a safe area until ready for reassembly.
Next, you must r emove the black plastic cover which is still
remaining on the door in order to get to the springs. There are 2 screws that hold the plastic cover which are difficult
to access without removing the side and bottom trim of the
microwave opening. The spring was easy to replace at this point and didn't require any tools; just observe when taking
the broken one off, plus you can use the other spring as a
go by. Replace the black plastic cover, the bottom trim, the
side trims and the stainless door panel and it's complete!
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
Oven door would not stay completely closed and the light would come on.
6 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Cindy from Sequim, WA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
First we had to take the oven door off, which proved a bit tricky. There was a release pin which was hard to find and release. Then we had to unscrew the screws and take the glass and inside of the door off to access the spring hinges. Replacing the hinges was pretty easy, as was reassembling the door. The door snapped back into place and voila! the door stayed shut.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
inner oven door glass was cracked
6 of 9 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Milton from Pasadena, TX
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Removed the door and laid it flat with the cracked glass facing up. applied duct tape to the broken glass to help hold it together. Removed the screws from the frame holding the glass. lifted the frame off,removed the broken glass and replaced it with the new piece. replaced the frame. and put the door back on the oven.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
This is a small halogen light bulb for the microwave. This is the third time it has had to be replaced.
7 of 12 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Robert from LAGUNA VISTA, TX
  • Very Difficult
  • More than 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
This is the third time that the bulb went out.It took two Sears service technitions to remove the entire appliance out of the cabinet. The entire top has to be removed and the insolation has to be pulled back to get to the electrical wire. I am waiting for an appointment to get Sears to do it again. The door springs have broken and you ha ve to make sure the door is closed before walking away. It has a heavy glass and the weight is pretty heavy. Robert.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
All Instructions for the KEHC37
31 - 45 of 179