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KEBS277B KitchenAid - Instructions

All Instructions for the KEBS277B
1 - 15 of 86

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Burned terminal block and filter board
95 of 208 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Joseph from Decatur, GA
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
Removed and replaced above named parts, rewired.Be sure to tighten all nuts that secure wires. I believe this is what caused the problem.
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Socket Light had a bad thread
44 of 65 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Edmund from Emporium, PA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
Socket Lite come with clips attached to the outside
of the housing. After you unhook the 3 lead wires
that are attached to the unit. All you have to do is push in on the clips and release the unit. Then you
snap in the new unit. Attach the 3 wire leads, put a
oven bulb in the socket end, and the install the light cove r
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After running oven in BROIL for lengthy period, entire oven shut off, thermal fuse blown
26 of 30 people found this instruction helpful.
  • JAMES P from UPATOI, GA
  • Very Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
USE 2 PEOPLE FOR SAFETY! SWITCH OFF OVEN POWER BREAKER!! Remove screws attaching oven to wall opening, slide out entire oven just far enough to get to 2 screws on either side of controls, remove those screws (may need stubby screwdriver), lift control front, opens forward, have 2nd person hold control panel cover while removing centered thermal fuse (plugs on both ends, may need needle-nose pliers to grip plug on fuse.) Remove old fuse, plug in new one. Close control panel, replace side screws, TEST POWER BEFORE pushing oven back into wall, replace wall-holding screws. Less than 30 minutes. EXTRA PERSON MAKES EASY!
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faulty meat probe
38 of 69 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Kent from Seattle, WA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
Not a repair. Just needed to replace the meat probe sensor for the programmable oven. Quick and easy purchase and very fast delivery took care of the problem. I was back in business.
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Inside brass liner in socket came out when bulb was removed. Apparently had welded itself to the base of the bulb
21 of 26 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Lewis from Chapin, SC
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Removed oven from wall unit and took the back off. Removed the old socket assembly by depressing the ears and forcing unit into the oven. The electrical wires were easily removed since they are spade connections and slip off. They also are different sizes so that there is no chance of erroneously putting them back in an incorrect order. The new unit simply slips in from the front and snaps into place. The most difficult part of the entire process is removing the old unit. A little "friendly persuasion" is required to get the old unit out.
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Oven light not working
18 of 26 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Carol from Allison Park, PA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
I turned off the breaker (I'm a little nervous even unplugging a 220 plug). I first removed the cover from the back of the stove to get to the wiring/socket. Removed the two wires from the leads - they just pull off by hand but use a needlenose pilers if it is stuck. One is larger so no need to try to remember which one goes where. I re moved the glass cover and bulb from inside the oven. I read another post on this site that said there were clips that you had to press to get the old socket out which helped. That part was a little tricky as the insulation around the socket makes it hard to see and the opening is really tight. I finally found the clips and pressed one then got that side out enough to hold the clip back then pressed the other clip and I was able to push it right out. I did not have the strength to press both clips with enough pressure but if you do, that would probably be easier. From inside the oven, I pushed the new socket through the hole - there was a little notch in the opening that had to match up with the socket. I had to push pretty firmly until I felt both clips snap in place. Replaced the wires, turned on the power, screwed in the bulb and cover and I had light!
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Thermal fuse blew while oven was in use and we had a power outage.
15 of 19 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jeffrey from TOWNSEND, TN
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
Thanks to PartSelect they suggested to try a new thermal fuse first. They also gave a brief description of how to install it. There advice was right on. Replaced the fuse in about 20 minutes from throwing the breaker to turning it back on.

Instructions: Turn off breaker. Remove oven door. Remove screws holding it to cabin et. Remove racks. Slide oven out about four inches. Remove four screws holding control panel. Remove thermal fuse. Replace thermal fuse and put it back together.

Thank you PartSelect. Thermal fuse cost me about $28.00 with shipping. This repair would have cost a couple of hundred if I had to call a repair technician.
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oven temp wrong
12 of 13 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Alan from Wallkill, NY
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers
Remove the oven door. Remove 3 self tappers on rear wall of oven to take off a round access panel. Pull out a pre-cut rectangle of insulation. Next I removed the 2 screws holding the sensor in place. Pulling the sensor out a bit told me I was "touching" the correct wires in the SMALL rectangular opening. The wires are not visable and 2 h ands do not fit in this small opening.I looked at the NEW sensor to see the release on the sensor plug. Slip the angled needle nose into the opening and grasp the plug/release side. The plug pulled apart easily. The sensor wire pulls out with a little bit of twisting to fit it out the hole. The new plug pushes in and has to be worked down to where you can reach it. The same angled plier works to re-attach it. It takes longer to read this than to do the job. Best of luck, Al
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Fiber Gasket around Pyrex Light Lens was mis-shaped
12 of 13 people found this instruction helpful.
  • David from Westminster, CO
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
All I had to do was unscrew the pyrex lens over the oven light and then remove the old gasket and replace it with the new one. Worked like a champ!
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Scratches in Surface
83 of 227 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Michelle from Richardson, TX
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
This product comes in a bottle with a brush like Liquid Paper. It goes on incredibly easy. A second coat might be needed. I wanted to prevent rust from setting in so I covered the scratches and dings. The paint is a little brighter since my washer is 10 years old but it still looks great.
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meat probe for the oven needed to be replaced
11 of 12 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Heide from Delray Beach, FL
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
No repair. I've used the new one and like the one that cracked on the wiring it works beautifully. I APPRECIATED THE VERY QUICK RESPONSE FROM YOU AS I RECEIVED IT IN ONLY 2 DAYS. THANK YOU
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Oven light would not work--faulty socket
10 of 12 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Delores from Warren, MN
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
After removing the back of the stove, the old light socket was fairly easy to remove. The new socket slipped in place and the wires reattached and now the oven has a light again. A very simple process--especially for someone who's not an expert in repairing appliances.
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Purchased home but stove had no broiler pan.
16 of 33 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Raymond from BLOOMINGTON, MN
  • Very Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
Purchased 2 piece broiler pan from this site
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The oven and ranges would not heat up and an F9 error was displaying on the Oven Screen.
7 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jared from UNION GROVE, AL
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
So, the F9 error indicates a electrical power issue. First I pulled the oven out and verified I had 240 volts at my outlet.

Then I removed the fire panel over the terminal block and the issue was apparent. The nuts on the terminal block were corroded. This had cause the resistance in the connection to raise and burn up the wire to my oven plug at the terminal block.

I removed the whole back panel and everything else seemed OK visually.

1. I go new connectors for the oven plug, stripped the wires, and crimped on the new connectors.

2. The terminal block DOES NOT come with the nuts to connect the wire to the terminal block. Mine were so corroded they had to be replaced. So I went and purchased the correct ones and installed the terminal block and reconnected all the wires.

3. I applied some dielectric grease to the connections through out the process of reinstalling to prevent it from happening in the future.
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honeycomb filter in vent fell out..
8 of 10 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Larry from Brentwood, TN
  • Very Difficult
  • 1- 2 hours
The honeycomb filter in the vent was missing so I bought the entire vent cap.. Thought it attach with 2 screws from inside the oven.. BUT -- when you loosen the screws, it wouldn't drop.. Looked at the new part and saw that it attaches to the vent outside the oven as well.. So to replace this puppy, you have to pull the cabinet apart..