KEBC16 KitchenAid Wall Oven - Instructions

Recieved the part promptly. From looking at the diagrams, we knew the overload thermostat was located on the back of the oven. We removed the screws, brackets, etc, slid the oven out, which for us was fairly easy as it's an under counter oven. Located the thermostat, removed it, replaced the new one, connected two clip wires, replaced the ... Read more oven, turned the power back on and it works like a champ. Total cost was under 50 bucks.

Thanks to those who replied to my intitial distress call...because of them I had the courage to attempt the repair.
First I flipped the main electrica breaker.
then I removed the screws from the main door. The next step was to pop out the pins holding the hinges. I couldn't do that no mater how much WD-40 and lubricant I us ... Read more ed, or how hard I tapped center mass.....SO I took all the OTHER components out staring with the side facings. (1 screw right left and 2 for bottom.)
Next I took the screws holding the door together out -- then the two screws holding the clamps on the bottom of the door. At this point I lifted off the the front facing of the door by the handle and placed it with its glass, to the side.

I then had access to the two inside panes of glass. They are secured with a metal plate screwed into the metal of the inner door. When I removed the two screws securing the plate, two plates dropped to the floor and it was fortunate I was holding the glas securly as it two would have dropped.
Next, I cleaned each of tpieces of glass with oven cleaner and set them carefuly to the side.(they were crusted with brown) Lastly I wiggled the broken glass out of the small inner window, working from both the inside and the outside of the window. Becuase I couldn't open out the door.. this was an extrememly time consuming activity..but do-able.

Once the inner glass was in screwed one of the screws o the clamp plate so I could rest the glass while screwing in the second screw. Once screw two was in place I took out the retaining screw and replaceed in with the glass clamped between. Aftern that the tough stuff was done and I just reassmebled all the door parts.

This SHOULD have been much simplier! IF I could have removed the hinge pins as directed.

Anyway, mission acomplished. Oven works fine.
Thanks!

Used flat tip screw driver to pry front clip holding glass cover out of position. Pulled out dead bulb and pushed in new one. Slid clip back on glass cover and slid back into place. Simple. .

Replacement of the thermal overload safety thermostat very straight forward after sliding unit out, killing power and removing two covers. Tested both old and new and both show continuity (= good). Installed new, restored power and tested for proper operation. Didn't happen. Replaced original and now have new as spare. Now suspect the dou ... Read more ble line break relay on electronic control board is failed and source of problem. It is common to both elements and immediate before the suspected thermostat in circuit.

I followed instructions from the videos provided on the Part Select site. As with many such appliances, parts are interchangeable between brands. this unit is a KitchenAid but Whirpool,Kenmore parts interchange...Access from the front is all that's needed however and the only tool required was a phllips head screw driver...the only nega ... Read more tive surprise (which the video warned about but I ignored) was the risk of the element leads drawing back through the holes, which 2 did. Save yourself that trouble by securing the wires to the back oven wall with a small strip of duct tape until you're ready to re-attach them to the new element. This necessitated removing the oven entirely for access to the back; the most time consuming aspect being removing/replacing what seemed like 20 odd screws holding the back cover in place! If not for that mistake, entire job would have been under 30 minutes. Well worth the effort and would do it again!

The Youtube videos for this particular repair, using part number PS11747304, indicated that the whole oven unit should be pulled out of the wall while working on it, and the electrical clips removed and re-attached from the back.

Because I was doing this as a one-man job, and didn't have anything to place the oven on while work ... Read more ing, I turned off the circuit breaker, and performed the entire element replacement from the front.

1. I was very careful after unscrewing the 4 mounting screws (two in the back, two on the top) to gently pull the attaching wires while still attached to the old element.

2. I had 4 mini vice-grips that I clamped (gently) on the insulation of the 4 wires before detaching them from old element. The vice grips prevented the wires from disappearing to whence they came.

3. After completing the old element removal, I replaced it with the new element, attaching each wire where they had been attached to old element, only then removing the corresponding vice grip.

4. With all 4 wires reattached, I carefully pushed the element ends back into the back of the oven... also avoiding the protruding temperature sensor. The element needed to be held in place by hand until the first overhead screw could be re-screwed.

5. The most difficult part of the procedure was actually getting the screws to line up with their holes in the oven body. .. Returning the screws in fact took about half the 30 minutes the whole job took, because their alignment wasn't "keyed" such that the holes easily just lined up. My order was "Top right" - "Back Left", "Top Left", "Back Right".

Once the 4 screws were all satisfactorily tightened back in place, I turned the breaker back on, and hit the pre-heat function on the oven... It smoked a very little (my hands may have been a bit oily) but that quickly dissipated, and the job was complete. I am very thankful that I didn't have a professional come out. My baker wife has used the oven 10-20 times since then, and it seems as good as new.

This product comes in a bottle with a brush like Liquid Paper. It goes on incredibly easy. A second coat might be needed. I wanted to prevent rust from setting in so I covered the scratches and dings. The paint is a little brighter since my washer is 10 years old but it still looks great.

Kept removing screws and pulled things out until I got to the inner glass.
Yep, clueless and never did this before.
Put everything back in the opposite order of taking it out. Wala it's fixed.
Repair people wanted over $300 for parts and labor. However, with Partselect I was able to fix it for under $50.00 Well worth it ... Read more !
Carmen

Pull the end of the lens nearest the oven door out of the oven wall. Because our oven is several years old and the bulbs had not been previously changed, I could not pull the lens out with my hand, so used two small screwdriver under the metal tabs which hold the lens in place, the metal holder came out with the lens. Once the lens is r ... Read more emoved, simply pull out the old bulb and, either while wearing surgical gloves or holding the bulb with a cloth (do NOT allow bare skin to touch the bulb or you will be replacing it again sooner rather than later), push the new bulb's pins into the socket. The lens then is simply pushed back into place.

The inner glass on the wall oven shattered (apparently a common problem). Rather than look at a new $2-3,000 oven, I found the part for around $30. The repair was actually fairly easy, just had to be careful with the glass panes.
I did not remove the door completely, just worked on it either open or closed, depending on the step. F ... Read more irst I loosened the two screws on the bottom of the door (when closed). Then I removed the four screws on the inside of the door and the two on the top part of the door (2). This allowed the outer panel to slide out and be removed.
Then there are two middle panes, held on by small clips with two screws in each. Remove one at a time, being careful not to drop any of the glass on the floor! Remember the order of the glass and the clips, so you can replace in the same order. (Now's a good time to clean all of the inner panes also, and to vacuum out the interior of the door.)
Lay these panes aside, and you should be to the broken inner pane, held on by a metal panel--again remove a couple screws, the panel, and remove all the broken glass. Be careful to retain all the insulation around the glass, and replace the glass, then the metal panel, the inner panes, and the outer door panel in that order. The outer panel should slide into place if you remove one clip and screw and start on one side, then replace the clip.

This is a drop in range so I had to remove the range and set on a dolly. Turn the dolly around and acess the THRMST-FIX that needed replaceing, it was open. put the range back in its place and could still use the rest of stove until I received the parts 2 days later .
Pulled the range out put the new THRMST-FIX in put the range bac ... Read more k together and put the range back in place and it has worked ever since.
GOOD JOB

Getting at the part was difficult. The top and both side panels had to be removed to reach the blower. Once they were off, it was fairly easy to swap out the blower. The repair guy wanted $140 for the part and $160 to insall. I did it myself for $94! If you do it yourself, keep a good record of what screws came from where as you go. This ... Read more makes re-assembly much easier.

Purchased 2 piece broiler pan from this site

So, the F9 error indicates a electrical power issue. First I pulled the oven out and verified I had 240 volts at my outlet.

Then I removed the fire panel over the terminal block and the issue was apparent. The nuts on the terminal block were corroded. This had cause the resistance in the connection to raise and burn up the ... Read more wire to my oven plug at the terminal block.

I removed the whole back panel and everything else seemed OK visually.

1. I go new connectors for the oven plug, stripped the wires, and crimped on the new connectors.

2. The terminal block DOES NOT come with the nuts to connect the wire to the terminal block. Mine were so corroded they had to be replaced. So I went and purchased the correct ones and installed the terminal block and reconnected all the wires.

3. I applied some dielectric grease to the connections through out the process of reinstalling to prevent it from happening in the future.

Read all the way through this once before doing it. It really helps in keeping pieces and parts separated. First I had to take off the oven door. Please do this as it will make your life so much easier! The owners instructions does a lousy job explaining how to do this. You need to insert a small Allen wrench into the holes behind the do ... Read more or hinge pin. Just stick them in there and leave them. If you don't have Allen wrenches you can use small nails or the like, but you have to put something into the holes. Close the door slowly, yes it will feel like you are going to break the hinges or the wrenches. When you get the door almost completely closed you should wiggle the door a bit by the handle and pull up. The door will come off. Once you get the door off you can get to work. Leave these wrenches in the hinge holes. You will need a flat surface big enough to lay the door down to work on it. Lay it down with the handle towards the surface and the broken glass facing you. Remove the 4 screws on the broken glass side, the 2 screws holding the brackets on the bottom and the 2 screws on the top of the door. You will need to wiggle the inside cover off because there are 2 little clips at the top you need to get it off of the outer glass door. You should have 2 separate pieces, the outer glass of the door and the inner tempered glass and sheet metal portion of the door. Set the outer glass door aside, somewhere safe, as you really don't want to have to reorder that part too! From there you can lay the door down with the broken inner door glass towards the work surface. Remove the screws and good pieces of glass and lay them down in the order you take them out. This helps putting them back together later. Keep the pieces together in sets so you know which set goes to each section. There should be 3 pieces of glass total in the assembly. You remove the screws and the 2 good pieces of glass. The inside door glass is accessible under a large piece of sheet metal held in place by little flanges cut into it. You can remove this sheet metal panel piece by wiggling it out away from under the hinges and away from the hinge end. There is a piece of insulation under there as well. Make sure you reseat it correctly when you put it all back together. If you don't it will stick out, and make things hard to line up. Pull the broken glass out, Put the new glass in and replace the sheet metal panel. At this point I would suggest putting the four screws you took out at the very beginning from the inside of the door back in. They keep the 2 hinge assemblies in place and they will be harder to line up if you don't. You need to work from the bottom side up but it's pretty easy to get the 4 screws back in. Don't be afraid to wiggle the pieces around so you can line up the holes. They need to line up so that the hinges line up back to the oven. Reverse how you took the other glass pieces out and put the door back together. Put the front glass piece back on and secure it in place with the bottom door brackets and screws and the top 2 screws. Lift the door unit back up by the handle and place it in the slots for the hinges exactly the way you removed it. You will feel it sort of catch when you pull the door open slowly. Remove the Allen wrenches and you are done.