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KEBC14 - Instructions

All Instructions for the KEBC14
16 - 30 of 96

Search repair tips from other customers using simple keywords like "replace", "fit", "remove", "inspect". DIY doesn't mean you have to do it alone!

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Corroded bake element
12 of 13 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Tim from Langley, WA
  • Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
Pull it away from the wall and take everything off the back. Unscrew the element cover, cut through the insulation and remove the part. Not easy, watch for sharp sheet metal edges
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Scratches in Surface
83 of 227 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Michelle from Richardson, TX
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
This product comes in a bottle with a brush like Liquid Paper. It goes on incredibly easy. A second coat might be needed. I wanted to prevent rust from setting in so I covered the scratches and dings. The paint is a little brighter since my washer is 10 years old but it still looks great.
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Replace KitchenAid oven light bulbs
10 of 10 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Doris from NEW JOHSONVLE, TN
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Pull the end of the lens nearest the oven door out of the oven wall. Because our oven is several years old and the bulbs had not been previously changed, I could not pull the lens out with my hand, so used two small screwdriver under the metal tabs which hold the lens in place, the metal holder came out with the lens. Once the lens is r emoved, simply pull out the old bulb and, either while wearing surgical gloves or holding the bulb with a cloth (do NOT allow bare skin to touch the bulb or you will be replacing it again sooner rather than later), push the new bulb's pins into the socket. The lens then is simply pushed back into place.
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Oven Would Not Heat After Auto-Clean
10 of 13 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jim from San Diego, CA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Very simple. I removed two screws holding the oven in place. Slid oven out onto the kitchen floor - it doesn't really weigh that much. I then removed about a dozen screws holding the back panel in place. I removed the back panel, disconnected the thermostat by unscrewing a single screw and pulled the defective part from the connectors. I then installed the new thermostat, screwed the back panel back on, slid the oven back into place and re-secured with the two screws. Voila! Repair done. The whole procedure took about 15 minutes and was not difficult at all.
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Purchased home but stove had no broiler pan.
16 of 33 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Raymond from BLOOMINGTON, MN
  • Very Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
Purchased 2 piece broiler pan from this site
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Oven door latch would self-activate the door-lock feature for all operatons making it impossible to use the oven
11 of 19 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Anthony from Lambertville, MI
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
My electric oven is a built-in. First I turned off power to the oven.

Then, I removed the oven door as instructed by Kitchenaid, next I removed the screws that held the concealing-sleeves on each side of the oven opening. Slid down the sleeves, loosened the exposed screws on each to allow the oven to slide out. Slid the o ven out abut half way to expose the top. Removed the metal sheeting from top of oven to expose area where door latch assembly was secured. Removing the sheeting was made easier by removing the screws on each side of the control panel and lifting the panel out of the way.

The latch assembly is held in place by two screws through the front of the plastic venting. Identified the connections to appropriate points before I removed the wiring, removed wiring and attached to points on the new latch assembly.

Secured latch assembly to plastic vent, secured sheeting to top of oven, placed conrol panel back in place, pushed oven back and secured with screws.
Slid sleeves into position, secured with screws and replaced oven door.
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The oven and ranges would not heat up and an F9 error was displaying on the Oven Screen.
7 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jared from UNION GROVE, AL
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
So, the F9 error indicates a electrical power issue. First I pulled the oven out and verified I had 240 volts at my outlet.

Then I removed the fire panel over the terminal block and the issue was apparent. The nuts on the terminal block were corroded. This had cause the resistance in the connection to raise and burn up the wire to my oven plug at the terminal block.

I removed the whole back panel and everything else seemed OK visually.

1. I go new connectors for the oven plug, stripped the wires, and crimped on the new connectors.

2. The terminal block DOES NOT come with the nuts to connect the wire to the terminal block. Mine were so corroded they had to be replaced. So I went and purchased the correct ones and installed the terminal block and reconnected all the wires.

3. I applied some dielectric grease to the connections through out the process of reinstalling to prevent it from happening in the future.
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Stove top wouldn't come on. Oven couldn't go higher than low heat
7 of 9 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Peter from FREDERICK, MD
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
Had a technician from Home Advisor to check the problem out with my Whirlpool Double oven(1 1/2 old). Paid $60 to find the problem. According to the technician problem was control board and cost of labor and parts $465.00
Jumped on Part Select website, placed a question with my stove problem through the chat. Immediately they answer ed my question and told me the problem was the Terminal Block. Cost of part and shipping $25.00. Replaced it myself and everything works fine.
Thank you, Thank you Part Select for your help and honesty.

Sincerely
Peter from Maryland
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bUILT IN OVEN NOT COMING UP TO TEMPERATURE
5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Kenneth from BUFFALO, NY
  • Very Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Replaced oven temp sensor, removed oven door and interior racks for easy access to oven upper rear sensor access. Used philips head screw driver to remove both screws, gently pulled old senor out of reat oven wall until electrical connector clear of rear wall, disconnected connector, connected new sensor and gently pushed wiring and conne ctor back into opening, reinstalled door and racks. Ran open thru cycle and used oven thermometer to check temp. fast easy install
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Bad Bake Element
5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Gary from NELLYSFORD, VA
  • Very Difficult
  • More than 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
The existing bake element was charred and in pieces so could not be pulled out. We destructively disassembled the range and pulled out the pieces along with the melted insulation. The wall behind was also scorched.
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Loose terminal caused block to overheat and break
6 of 10 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Dana from Black Mountain, NC
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Removed all terminals and block mounting screws. Repaired one burnt terminal and reassembled. Replacement part was an exact fit and reassembly whnet very well.
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oven light would not come on
4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • david from SOUTHAVEN, MS
  • Really Easy
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Screw drivers
cut power off and placed sturdy table same height as bottom of oven in front of oven. removed trim screws. pulled oven out onto table. removed top cover and panel on left side . tested transformer to be sure it was bad. then replaced transforner
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Inner-most glass was broken
3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • MARK from ROCHESTER, NY
  • A Bit Difficult
  • More than 2 hours
  • Screw drivers
GENERAL APPROACH:
1) Checked YouTube for some general guidance: VERY helpful things there for this! PartSelect's install info. was helpful as well- Thank you for this!
2) had table set up in order to disassemble the door once it was removed
3) There are 4 separate glass panes in there- they all need to be cleaned
4) TO OK PICTURES AND MADE CAREFUL NOTES AS (12 or 15?) SCREWS ARE TINY & THERE ARE DIFFERENT TYPES. TAPED THEM NEAR WHERE I REMOVED THEM SO AS TO KEEP THINGS STRAIGHT
5) Like any project little or big, just take your time & it actually works out well
6) take advantage of this downtime to clean the oven good, as well as the door & panes of glass. Cleaning was 75% of this project.
7) EXTRA: If you're so inclined, turn the breaker off for the Oven & carefully remove the lower heating element to enable easier & more thorough cleaning of your oven. You'll be glad you did this- and so will your cook!
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Oven not getting hot enough
3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Geraldine from SPARTA, TN
  • Difficult
  • More than 2 hours
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
Turn off oven circuit breakers. Removed builtin double unit out from enclosure to access the back. Remove sheet metal covers to expose heating element electrical connections. Double Broiler element on top should read about 33 ohms and 56 ohms. One was open so it needed replacement. Bottom hidden element should read 28 ohms. It was ope n. Remove broiler element screws and replace it from the front. The hidden bottom element is difficult to get at. Remove 4 screws holding up a pan with insulation. Bend it down. Using scissors I cut a long slot through the insulation to access two center screws holding the element to a long metal strip and 4 screws holding this strip to the oven frame. The screws were tight, don't strip the heads. My element was broken and distorted, so little by little you coax it out the back. Attach the mounting strip to the new element with 2 screws and slide it back in. Then reattach the mounting bracket to the frame with the 4 screws. Easier said than done..... New elements fit perfect and worked good.
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Wouldn't heat after a cleaning cycle run
4 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • carlos from Holtsville, NY
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
I first did a search with my issue, found out there were many others with the same issue. That then led me to see the part, a fuse / thermostat, was the culprit and easy to replace it seemed. But first called a service co. who confirmed my findings, and quoted a fix of a $2-300! So I bought the part; worse case I'd have someone else ins tall. The web site noted the few screws to remove and a key suggestion to find a box of same height to easily slide out oven; I used a porter cable nail gun case which worked great. Took my time removing trim, mounting screws etc., slid out oven easy. Removed back plate and there was the older one. Removed and installed new in a minute. Spent more time cleaning around trim than actual install. What a great day it was. Wife was happy too!
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All Instructions for the KEBC14
16 - 30 of 96