KDTM704ESS2 KitchenAid Dishwasher - Instructions

Total repair time after watching videos was 53 minutes. I estimate I saved between $200 to $300 by doing this myself. If you have any DIY skills, don't hesitate to replace the detergent dispenser yourself.

Remove power source, then remove old power cord.Run new power cord through existing opening ang attach to existing power box on bottom o f dishwasher. Install electrical leads and device ground. Reinstall cabinet bottom. Check out operation by running a cycle. All ok!

Pulled the dishwasher out and took the two door balance links off and put the new ones on and attached to the spring. It was very quick and easy

Pushed to be into place

Easy. Part just snapped in and took all of about a minute. Now the top rack doe snot slide back and forth.

followed directions, a kid could have done it,

Just replaced it in the notches that held the rusted tine.

Pulled out dishwasher to access the sides. Removed onld lines and then unscrewed pulley from frame using socket / nutdriver. Replaced pulleys with new units supplied in the kit and then threaded new lines onto door and springs. Repair complete in less than 5 minutes.

Replaced the parts. Snapped out the old, snapped in the new.

Turned off power to dishwasher.
Removed screws from dishwasher retaining clips.
Pulled out dishwasher.
Removed broken rope.
Installed replacement and put everything back together.
Very easy repair. The spring is very strong and extra hand can be helpful, but not required.

After pulling the dishwasher out of the cabinet (2 screws held brackets to the underside of the counter - accessible when the door is open), I removed the broken link pieces, re-attached the springs and routed the link line around the pulleys. No need to re-set the spring tension as it was adjusted properly.

Was able to download a PDF manual from Sears for the dishwasher, so had the necessary information in the event adjustments were necessary.

I bought spare links as the dishwasher was less than 3 years old, and I expect them to fail again.

Removed 2 screws that held unit under counter. Slid diswasher out about half way; reattached metal spring in back and removed broken string. Attached replacement string to spring and threaded through wheels (copying other side), then attached string to door. Tada! Done. Will never pay a call-out fee again (for this problem anyway...)

The door balance springs are connected to the door via a nylon cable which snakes through a couple of pulleys. The plastic fastener on the end of one of these cables separated, so the one remaining spring was not able to offset the weight of the door. Easy to fix, just slide the unit out about 15 inches (remove base plate, and undo a couple screws on top) then replace cables. You can buy just the one cable, or for a couple bucks more, both L&R cables and new pulleys. Replaced the pulleys on my unit at the same time (remove one screw and twist out) since the replacement parts were of better quality than my factory parts. Don’t pay a repair guy $250 or more to fix this for you. It’s easy.

Followed the parts list diagram and confirmed with the link on the other side of door. Hooked the plastic attachment to the door, threaded the string around the plastic pulleys, attached the spring and mount it to the back of the dishwasher. that was it! Very easy to do. Hardest part was sliding the dishwasher out and in.

First we removed the two screws up under the countertop that secured the dishwasher in place. Next we pulled the d/w out from under the counter, having to unplug the power cord and feeding the drain hose into the d/w cavity from under the kitchen sink to allow this. On each side, attached to a metal spring was a nylon cord with plastic attachments that ran through two plastic pullies/wheels. The plastic piece on one of the nylon cords had broken...only on one side, so we were able to just look at the 'good' side to see how to attach and string the repair part through again. We pushed the d/w back in, made sure the drain hose under the kitchen sink wasn't kinked by pulling it back under the sink from the d/w cavity, plugged it in, replaced the two securing screws and were done. The old cord running through the pullies had always creaked when the door was opened, so while the d/w was out, we coated it w/ WD40. Piece-of-cake!