KDRS505XSS01 KitchenAid Range - Instructions

I numbered every part. ex: 1 L., for first part removed left side. I used a magic marker to circle the holes and wrote the number of screws used on the part, set the srews in a separete place, so that I new where these screws went to. The cleanup was pretty time consuming, but I was able to keep my stove, when every repairman I called to ... Read more fix my stove told me I was better off buying a new stove. ($600.00 stove 2 years old)Please Note: The insulation blanket needed for the entire stove is two pieces, the sides and top are one part # and the bottom and back, are another part #. I did not know this. I just purchased the top and sides. I got lucky, the back and bottom were still in good shape. So I guess I should have read the description of the part more carefully to see what it covers, before I ordered it. It took two people two hours to do the work, it was really nice to have an extra set of eyes, to remember what direction pieces of metal from the stove went. I would do it all over in a heart beat instead of buying a new stove.

Lock the oven/stove controls by holding the START button for five seconds. This shuts off gas to the valve. Remove the knobs from the front of the stove using philips screwdriver. Undo the six screws that hold on the front bezel and remove to find the valve. Unscrew the top bracket using philps screwdriver. disconnect the valve using ... Read more a wrench (I think it was 12mm). Compare the valve to the new one. Installation is reverse. Press the START button for five seconds to unlock the oven/stove. Test fire the burner. Cook a batch of chili.

Removed and replaced above named parts, rewired.Be sure to tighten all nuts that secure wires. I believe this is what caused the problem.

This product comes in a bottle with a brush like Liquid Paper. It goes on incredibly easy. A second coat might be needed. I wanted to prevent rust from setting in so I covered the scratches and dings. The paint is a little brighter since my washer is 10 years old but it still looks great.

So, the F9 error indicates a electrical power issue. First I pulled the oven out and verified I had 240 volts at my outlet.

Then I removed the fire panel over the terminal block and the issue was apparent. The nuts on the terminal block were corroded. This had cause the resistance in the connection to raise and burn up the ... Read more wire to my oven plug at the terminal block.

I removed the whole back panel and everything else seemed OK visually.

1. I go new connectors for the oven plug, stripped the wires, and crimped on the new connectors.

2. The terminal block DOES NOT come with the nuts to connect the wire to the terminal block. Mine were so corroded they had to be replaced. So I went and purchased the correct ones and installed the terminal block and reconnected all the wires.

3. I applied some dielectric grease to the connections through out the process of reinstalling to prevent it from happening in the future.

Had a technician from Home Advisor to check the problem out with my Whirlpool Double oven(1 1/2 old). Paid $60 to find the problem. According to the technician problem was control board and cost of labor and parts $465.00
Jumped on Part Select website, placed a question with my stove problem through the chat. Immediately they answer ... Read more ed my question and told me the problem was the Terminal Block. Cost of part and shipping $25.00. Replaced it myself and everything works fine.
Thank you, Thank you Part Select for your help and honesty.

Sincerely
Peter from Maryland

1. Pulled range out from its cabinet setting and turned off the gas and unplugged the electric cord. 2. Removed all knobs (and soft pads) to burners. 3. Removed curved cover that covers the burners gas valves, gas manifold and igniter harness. 4. Removed a part that could be referred to as a flange or riser that is attached to the top ... Read more of the range front at the burner level which the top of the curved piece is attached to. 5.The igniter attachments to the gas valves come off by pulling them away from the valve. I pulled away the one for the grill. 6. With these parts removed, eye sight and 1/2" open end wrench access is given to where the gas valve is attached to the burner gas line. 7. Disconnected the valve from the burner line. 8.Removed the bracket that holds the valve in place, thus removing the valve. 9. Installed new valve and bracket and attached valve to burner line. 10. Reattached the igniter part to the valve, then attached the flange (#4), then the curved cover, then the burner knobs (and soft pads). 11.Reconnected the electric cord and opened the gas valve. 12 Pushed the range back into its cabinet place and pushed the 'Cancel:' mark as directed by the digital read-out on the range's back riser control panel. Checked for gas leak. None. It took a bit of scrutiny to see what to remove and in what sequence.

Took the old levelling leg out and screw the new one in.

pull oven, remove back pannel and unplug and remove high limit switch. Repair was the reverse of removal.

Shut gas off. Took cover off of valve assembly. Removed broken valve and installed new part. Turned gas on and checked for leaks. Installed cover on valve assembly.

I had a service guy come in and he told me the repair would be $550.00. I asked for a part list and did it myself. You guys saved me hundreds of dollars.

Simply remove two screws take old one off and line up and put new one on and replace the two screws. Couldn't have been easier.

This is the second time had to change burner on this range. Last time was the left front. Since I had done it before knew better about being careful of the wiring. Last time sliced it and had to repair it. Also last time had to have a neighbor unscrew old knob. This time had no problem unscrewing the knob. I did have to adjust the know to ... Read more be align properly. Also forgot to slip to bottom clamp over the first time and again had to reassemble. Once I got it assembled correctly no problems, works great. I had ordered the wiring harness that I had sliced but it was still intact so saved it for another time.

Disassembly took the most time. After the gas was shut off all the burner heads were removed. Then all the control knobs. Then the front panel. Then the manifold mounting brackets. Then the range top. After all that, it was easy to unbolt the seized-up valve and install the replacement. After tightening down the new valve, be sure to leak ... Read more -test! Re-installing the range top was tricky as it was difficult to align properly while getting all the burner bases in place. About 1 hour start-to-finish.

Put the back of stove on blocks of wood to get high enough to screw the new leg in.