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Models > KDRP407HSS4 > Instructions

KDRP407HSS4 KitchenAid Range - Instructions

All installation instructions for KDRP407HSS4 parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the range repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the KDRP407HSS4
31-45 of 150
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Spark Module malfunction, won't spark

  • Customer: Darrel from Kewaunee, WI
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 8 of 14 people found this instruction helpful
Removed back upper cover, unscrewed retaining screw from module. As noted in a comment from another do-it-yourselfer, I replaced screw with a longer one and reinstalled module. Note that the replacement part is not exactly the same as the old one(the wires are located differently), I noted the wire color codes with the slot number and reinstalled them in the same slot number. Works fine.

I broke the inside oven door glass while cleaning it

  • Customer: Guy from Little Rock, AR
  • Difficulty: Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench set
  • 5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
The exact part for this oven is no longer available. I purchased one hat was close in size, but larger than the original. Upper and lower brackets hold the glass in place, so length was not a problem but height was. I removed the upper brackets, re-shaped them with the vise, a hammer and metal shears. The glass would now sit inside the bracket where the screws also went. I had to be quite careful the screws did not shatter the new glass.

The hardest part was aligning the 4 holes for the top brackets. Since 2 holes were on one piece of the door, and 2 were on the other (holding the glass sandwiched between) precision was critical. Also the screw length was critical because the glass now sat in a area where it could come in contact with the screws. (I know - pictures would be most helpful, and I didn't take any.)

Using tape and lots of patience, I got the holes aligned. I covered the old holes inside the oven door with spare screws. I filed down the points of the sheet metal screws so that, if they contacted the glass, they would not be pointed.

Once everything was reassembled, I turned the oven on high for about 1/2 hour to ensure the heated metal and glass all played nicely together. We've had no problems in the month since the repair.

Inner glass to oven door shattered

  • Customer: Robert from Forsyth, MO
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
Removed the 6 screws securing the door and inner frame unit. Lifted off the frame and inner glass unit. Then, after cleaning all the broken glass, put the new glass in; first reattaching the inner frame and then the outer door cover.

Loose terminal caused block to overheat and break

  • Customer: Dana from Black Mountain, NC
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 6 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
Removed all terminals and block mounting screws. Repaired one burnt terminal and reassembled. Replacement part was an exact fit and reassembly whnet very well.

Inner glass door cracked

  • Customer: Carmen from Redlands, CA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
  • 6 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
Kept removing screws and pulled things out until I got to the inner glass.
Yep, clueless and never did this before.
Put everything back in the opposite order of taking it out. Wala it's fixed.
Repair people wanted over $300 for parts and labor. However, with Partselect I was able to fix it for under $50.00 Well worth it!
Carmen

Cracked inner door glass on oven

  • Customer: Thomas from Rockville Centre, NY
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
I am not the handiest guy around so i was a little nervous doing this job but figured i would take a crack at it ( no pun intended). Took the door off as per instructions from kitchenaid , unscrewed all the outer screws , took off the back of door unscrewed the metal bar holding the glass in ( there are 3 levels of glass) took the 2 good glass sheets out got to the broken glass removed that put the new one in , replaced all the other glass and screws and put door back on, and i felt so proud. Probably saved about 150 dollars by doing it myself. I feel so proud.

Replacing inner glass on oven door

  • Customer: Kel from Denver, CO
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
The other comments from folks who had done this were very helpful!
I had to go look up the directions for removing the door. To do this flip the latches on the hinges and then close the door as far as you can and pull up, it will come out.
Now lay the door flat on the kitchen counter and take out the 6 screws you can see on the edges and inside of the door. They are all the same so you don't have to keep them organized. Now you can take off the outer door with the handle (lift the inner door out since you will have the door face down at this point) and get it out if the way. Remove the hinges and set them aside but don't get them mixed up.
Next, take out the screws on the inner glass rails, there are two rails. Keep those rails in order for replacement. Take out the middle glass and clean it (this took oven cleaner and a razor blade on the one I had).
Take the middle of the door apart and expose the soft gasket (don't move it!). Clean out any broken glass and Insert your new glass. Put the middle piece of the door back on and line up all the screw holes! Put the first of the glass rails back on and the cleaned middle glass back in place, then the second glass rail. Put in the two screws that hold the glass rails.
Now you are ready to put the door back together. USE THE BOX TO HOLD THE DOOR OFF THE COUNTER WHILE YOU PUT THE HINGES BACK IN AND PUT THE DOOR FRONT BACK ON! If the screw holes don't all line up start the screws and work your way around, you'll get them to go in.
Voila! Door fixed.

Inner door glass broken

  • Customer: Waldemar from Oak Hill, VA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
Relatively easy, my Jenn Aire model has a small 1/8 inch (est)hole under each of the door hinge assembly's, I inserted a an allen wrench on each side to hold the hinge. I then semi-closed the oven door, caution do it slowly until you get some resistance. You then pull upward on the door, caution it is heavy, you might have to jiggle it a bit. Once you have the door off you have to remove screws around the cover, the rest is intuitive. We took longer because we cleaned all the components.

every time I would try to do the self clean mode on my drop in range the thermostat blows. Last time it was still under warranty. I took the part number from the repair man's invoice to order the new part.

  • Customer: joyce from thomasville, NC
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 5 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
My husband took the back off and replaced it. The repairman suggested pulling the range out into the floor to run the self clean mode. I have owned several such ranges and have never had to do that and won't now. Easy Clean Oven Cleaner will be the next thing I use.

quit heating

  • Customer: karen from bismarck, ND
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 6 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
I have a rental and the tenant called. She said that she had a repair man out to fix the oven but he couldn't~that it needed to be replaced as he could not get parts.I contacted your company via phone and the person was so helpful~he asked the problem, looked up the model and advised me on this!It works like a brand new oven!Thanks you

oven wouldn't heat after self-cleaning the oven

  • Customer: Joi from Higginsville, MO
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 9 of 19 people found this instruction helpful
The website and diagram of my oven helped me know exactly what was wrong and where to locate the problem. I simply removed the oven door and the trim, pulled the oven out of the wall. After removing the back panel I located the part and put in the new part. Then reversed the procedure.

Taking the door apart.

  • Customer: R G from Orlando, FL
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 5 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
This was more difficult than anticipated - probably because I'd never done it before. Once I got the door off (I didn't have the proper pins and used nails but didn't realize they had to be headless) I found all the screws, which were relatively easy to take out. I was surprised that the thermal door glass was obscured by two other panes of glass. It took more disassembly than anticipated and a few false starts when reassembling, but all in all it got done. I was happy that a job that would have cost probably $300 or more ended up getting done for $40 plus my labor - which isn't worth much these days. I'd certaily do it again.

No heat to oven, all other controls appear to function

  • Customer: Stephen from PLACENTIA, CA
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
Oven stopped heating after attempting a self cleaning cycle. Problem turned out to be failed thermal fuse component. This is an easy repair and well worth the attempt given the replacement cost of the oven.

First step was to locate and shut off the two circuit breakers supplying power to the oven. Then I locked the panel to ensure someone didnt re-engage the breakers while I was working on the unit. (Lock out / Tag out).

Second step was sliding the oven out of the cabinet - this unit is located below a cooking top and was just the perfect height to allow a furniture dolly to be used to support the oven as I slid it out.

The unit is 'hard wired' (i.e. no power plug) so it can only be pulled out so far from the cabinet, but there was sufficient reach to allow access to and removal of the sheet metal cover at the rear of the oven to expose the thermal fuse and the read wiring. I proceeded with care, assuming the power was still on and once the terminals of the thermal fuse were exposed I performed a voltage measurement to ground on each side of the fuse to ensure power was in fact off.

Then I used an insulated pliers to gently remove the wire harness at each side of the fuse, and once the wires were removed I performed a continuity check of the suspect fuse, and confirmed it was an open circuit (i.e. failed).

Removal of two more screws allowed the fuse to be removed and the new fuse was installed, reversing the procedure.

This was followed by replacement of the rear sheet metal and finally sliding the oven back into its place in the cabinet using the furniture dolly. This is a single oven but still very heavy and has some sharp sheet metal edges likely to cause cuts if not handled with care so the dolly and a second set of hands (and good gloves) are nice to have.

Finally, after inspecting the oven door gasket and other air vents around the outside of the oven to identify suspect causes of the overheating event that tripped the fuse, the air vents above and below and within the door were cleared of dust-bunnies and other debris that had collected, possibly causing interference with the air flow that cools the area in between the oven and the cabinet. This blockage may have been the root cause of the fuse failure - i.e. the air did get too hot back there and had the fuse not tripped it would have been dangerous. The door gasket looked fine although its also an easy replacement and does not require oven removal.

The new part fit perfectly - it was a different design than the original part that shipped with the oven but appears to function perfectly so no complaints. The trip temperature is identical to the OEM part based upon the nomenclature on the back of the OEM and the replacement fuse part.

Unlocked the power panel and turned on the two breakers to the oven, set the clock and checked operation and its functioning great now.

Have not run a self cleaning operation since the repair but that is the next step and now that those door vents are clear I suspect that the fuse wont trip again.

Lesson Learned: Check those vents for obstructions.

Similar oven selling at discount because its the end of the model year is now priced at over $1100. Fixed our unit for $50 and the added cost of a $20 furniture dolly that I already wanted to buy.

Give this repair a try its a piece of cake and well worth the effort.

Knob on range top did not work.

  • Customer: James from Hurst, TX
  • Difficulty: Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
  • 3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
Since removing the burner valve would disable the cooktop, I ordered the valve first. Unfortunately the valve could not be removed because the screw that hold it in place was frozen to the valve and manifold. I finally had to cut the screw off with a hacksaw. Since the screw is a special screw, substitutions did not work, so I had to order the screw and pay shipping a second time. These screws should be included with the valve. Anyway, the hacksaw did some slight damage to the manifold so that the screw did not seal off properly. I had to use a Dremel tool to smooth the surface and then use fiberglass to coat the surface to seal any scratches or potential leaks. I screwed the screw in after applying the fiberglass resin to the manifold surface while the resin was still pliable. This seemed to seal the manifold off so that there is no leak, but it does make me nervous. Because of having to reorder for the additional part, the range top took almost a week to repair and could not be used during that time all because the screw was not included with the burner valve. Also a screw with a larger head would have allowed a larger wrench to be used and the screw could have been removed easily. The screw head was so small that it rounded off from the wrench making it more difficult to remove.

Broken Inner Glass on Oven Door by a Grandmother Who Should Know Better!

  • Customer: Diane from Citrus Heights, CA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 3 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
After reading all the other entries, I decided that I could do this! My first hurdle was getting the oven door off the hinges. Mine were not like any of the others described. My son-in-law looked at them and couldn't figure them out. So, I found the original installation instructions and, lo and behold, they said to flip the lever (one finger operation) in each of the rectangular holes holding the door onto the oven and then lift up until the door comes off. I did it, and it did! Boy, is it heavy! From there I just followed everyone else's instruction about undoing the screws, washing the glass panels, lining up the screw holes to get it back together, etc. One thing that took me longer was that the steel panel needs to go back the way it came out, not flipped! When I washed the glass panel it held, I put it down wrong and then "installed" it backwards. Luckily, I have a double oven and looked at the other one to see what was holding up the re-assembly! I'm glad that one of the others mentioned that the glass on the "bottom", the one that broke, isn't held in my screws or steel plates -- nothing, so I wasn't surprised when I got to it and it was "floating" on the insulation. My white insulation was like a fine fiberglass and was easy to stuff back in around the rim of the new glass. Took me a little over one hour. So, no more wet rags on hot glass (you'd think after living 72 years that I would remember this!) The glass fit perfectly and my husband would have been proud of me -- that I tackled a job that he usually handled, and that I saved over $200 for a couple of hours of labor and travel time.
All Instructions for the KDRP407HSS4
31-45 of 150