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KDRP407HSS06 KitchenAid Range - Instructions
Search repair tips from other customers using simple keywords like "replace", "fit", "remove", "inspect". DIY doesn't mean you have to do it alone!
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Inner glass was broken by previous tenants
8 of 10 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
Janene from ORLANDO, FL
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Screw drivers
Read all the way through this once before doing it. It really helps in keeping pieces and parts separated. First I had to take off the oven door. Please do this as it will make your life so much easier! The owners instructions does a lousy job explaining how to do this. You need to insert a small Allen wrench into the holes behind the do
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or hinge pin. Just stick them in there and leave them. If you don't have Allen wrenches you can use small nails or the like, but you have to put something into the holes. Close the door slowly, yes it will feel like you are going to break the hinges or the wrenches. When you get the door almost completely closed you should wiggle the door a bit by the handle and pull up. The door will come off. Once you get the door off you can get to work. Leave these wrenches in the hinge holes. You will need a flat surface big enough to lay the door down to work on it. Lay it down with the handle towards the surface and the broken glass facing you. Remove the 4 screws on the broken glass side, the 2 screws holding the brackets on the bottom and the 2 screws on the top of the door. You will need to wiggle the inside cover off because there are 2 little clips at the top you need to get it off of the outer glass door. You should have 2 separate pieces, the outer glass of the door and the inner tempered glass and sheet metal portion of the door. Set the outer glass door aside, somewhere safe, as you really don't want to have to reorder that part too! From there you can lay the door down with the broken inner door glass towards the work surface. Remove the screws and good pieces of glass and lay them down in the order you take them out. This helps putting them back together later. Keep the pieces together in sets so you know which set goes to each section. There should be 3 pieces of glass total in the assembly. You remove the screws and the 2 good pieces of glass. The inside door glass is accessible under a large piece of sheet metal held in place by little flanges cut into it. You can remove this sheet metal panel piece by wiggling it out away from under the hinges and away from the hinge end. There is a piece of insulation under there as well. Make sure you reseat it correctly when you put it all back together. If you don't it will stick out, and make things hard to line up. Pull the broken glass out, Put the new glass in and replace the sheet metal panel. At this point I would suggest putting the four screws you took out at the very beginning from the inside of the door back in. They keep the 2 hinge assemblies in place and they will be harder to line up if you don't. You need to work from the bottom side up but it's pretty easy to get the 4 screws back in. Don't be afraid to wiggle the pieces around so you can line up the holes. They need to line up so that the hinges line up back to the oven. Reverse how you took the other glass pieces out and put the door back together. Put the front glass piece back on and secure it in place with the bottom door brackets and screws and the top 2 screws. Lift the door unit back up by the handle and place it in the slots for the hinges exactly the way you removed it. You will feel it sort of catch when you pull the door open slowly. Remove the Allen wrenches and you are done.
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Spark Module malfunction, won't spark
10 of 17 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Darrel from Kewaunee, WI
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
Removed back upper cover, unscrewed retaining screw from module. As noted in a comment from another do-it-yourselfer, I replaced screw with a longer one and reinstalled module. Note that the replacement part is not exactly the same as the old one(the wires are located differently), I noted the wire color codes with the slot number and r
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einstalled them in the same slot number. Works fine.
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Neither bake nor broil elements came on
7 of 8 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Rod from Dripping Springs, TX
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
Removed four trim pieces; removed four wood screws holding oven in cabinet housing; slid oven out (weighs about 150 lbs and takes two people and a bench to rest oven on. Oven will pull all the way out but not much further because of the electric cord.); Removed back sheet metal cover (bunch of small metal screws); removed wires from b
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ad unit, unscrewed the bad unit and screwed in the replacement unit.
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quit heating
8 of 12 people
found this instruction helpful.
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karen from bismarck, ND
- Easy
- Less than 15 mins
I have a rental and the tenant called. She said that she had a repair man out to fix the oven but he couldn't~that it needed to be replaced as he could not get parts.I contacted your company via phone and the person was so helpful~he asked the problem, looked up the model and advised me on this!It works like a brand new oven!Thanks you
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No heat to oven, all other controls appear to function
6 of 6 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Stephen from PLACENTIA, CA
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
Oven stopped heating after attempting a self cleaning cycle. Problem turned out to be failed thermal fuse component. This is an easy repair and well worth the attempt given the replacement cost of the oven.
First step was to locate and shut off the two circuit breakers supplying power to the oven. Then I locked the panel to ens ... Read more ure someone didnt re-engage the breakers while I was working on the unit. (Lock out / Tag out).
Second step was sliding the oven out of the cabinet - this unit is located below a cooking top and was just the perfect height to allow a furniture dolly to be used to support the oven as I slid it out.
The unit is 'hard wired' (i.e. no power plug) so it can only be pulled out so far from the cabinet, but there was sufficient reach to allow access to and removal of the sheet metal cover at the rear of the oven to expose the thermal fuse and the read wiring. I proceeded with care, assuming the power was still on and once the terminals of the thermal fuse were exposed I performed a voltage measurement to ground on each side of the fuse to ensure power was in fact off.
Then I used an insulated pliers to gently remove the wire harness at each side of the fuse, and once the wires were removed I performed a continuity check of the suspect fuse, and confirmed it was an open circuit (i.e. failed).
Removal of two more screws allowed the fuse to be removed and the new fuse was installed, reversing the procedure.
This was followed by replacement of the rear sheet metal and finally sliding the oven back into its place in the cabinet using the furniture dolly. This is a single oven but still very heavy and has some sharp sheet metal edges likely to cause cuts if not handled with care so the dolly and a second set of hands (and good gloves) are nice to have.
Finally, after inspecting the oven door gasket and other air vents around the outside of the oven to identify suspect causes of the overheating event that tripped the fuse, the air vents above and below and within the door were cleared of dust-bunnies and other debris that had collected, possibly causing interference with the air flow that cools the area in between the oven and the cabinet. This blockage may have been the root cause of the fuse failure - i.e. the air did get too hot back there and had the fuse not tripped it would have been dangerous. The door gasket looked fine although its also an easy replacement and does not require oven removal.
The new part fit perfectly - it was a different design than the original part that shipped with the oven but appears to function perfectly so no complaints. The trip temperature is identical to the OEM part based upon the nomenclature on the back of the OEM and the replacement fuse part.
Unlocked the power panel and turned on the two breakers to the oven, set the clock and checked operation and its functioning great now.
Have not run a self cleaning operation since the repair but that is the next step and now that those door vents are clear I suspect that the fuse wont trip again.
Lesson Learned: Check those vents for obstructions.
Similar oven selling at discount because its the end of the model year is now priced at over $1100. Fixed our unit for $50 and the added cost of a $20 furniture dolly that I already wanted to buy.
Give this repair a try its a piece of cake and well worth the effort.
First step was to locate and shut off the two circuit breakers supplying power to the oven. Then I locked the panel to ens ... Read more ure someone didnt re-engage the breakers while I was working on the unit. (Lock out / Tag out).
Second step was sliding the oven out of the cabinet - this unit is located below a cooking top and was just the perfect height to allow a furniture dolly to be used to support the oven as I slid it out.
The unit is 'hard wired' (i.e. no power plug) so it can only be pulled out so far from the cabinet, but there was sufficient reach to allow access to and removal of the sheet metal cover at the rear of the oven to expose the thermal fuse and the read wiring. I proceeded with care, assuming the power was still on and once the terminals of the thermal fuse were exposed I performed a voltage measurement to ground on each side of the fuse to ensure power was in fact off.
Then I used an insulated pliers to gently remove the wire harness at each side of the fuse, and once the wires were removed I performed a continuity check of the suspect fuse, and confirmed it was an open circuit (i.e. failed).
Removal of two more screws allowed the fuse to be removed and the new fuse was installed, reversing the procedure.
This was followed by replacement of the rear sheet metal and finally sliding the oven back into its place in the cabinet using the furniture dolly. This is a single oven but still very heavy and has some sharp sheet metal edges likely to cause cuts if not handled with care so the dolly and a second set of hands (and good gloves) are nice to have.
Finally, after inspecting the oven door gasket and other air vents around the outside of the oven to identify suspect causes of the overheating event that tripped the fuse, the air vents above and below and within the door were cleared of dust-bunnies and other debris that had collected, possibly causing interference with the air flow that cools the area in between the oven and the cabinet. This blockage may have been the root cause of the fuse failure - i.e. the air did get too hot back there and had the fuse not tripped it would have been dangerous. The door gasket looked fine although its also an easy replacement and does not require oven removal.
The new part fit perfectly - it was a different design than the original part that shipped with the oven but appears to function perfectly so no complaints. The trip temperature is identical to the OEM part based upon the nomenclature on the back of the OEM and the replacement fuse part.
Unlocked the power panel and turned on the two breakers to the oven, set the clock and checked operation and its functioning great now.
Have not run a self cleaning operation since the repair but that is the next step and now that those door vents are clear I suspect that the fuse wont trip again.
Lesson Learned: Check those vents for obstructions.
Similar oven selling at discount because its the end of the model year is now priced at over $1100. Fixed our unit for $50 and the added cost of a $20 furniture dolly that I already wanted to buy.
Give this repair a try its a piece of cake and well worth the effort.
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One of the burners was not igniting.
6 of 7 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Sandra from ASTORIA, NY
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Screw drivers
We replaced the part. It was pretty quick and easy to install.
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oven wouldn't heat after self-cleaning the oven
10 of 20 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Joi from Higginsville, MO
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
The website and diagram of my oven helped me know exactly what was wrong and where to locate the problem. I simply removed the oven door and the trim, pulled the oven out of the wall. After removing the back panel I located the part and put in the new part. Then reversed the procedure.
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bUILT IN OVEN NOT COMING UP TO TEMPERATURE
5 of 5 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Kenneth from BUFFALO, NY
- Very Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
Replaced oven temp sensor, removed oven door and interior racks for easy access to oven upper rear sensor access. Used philips head screw driver to remove both screws, gently pulled old senor out of reat oven wall until electrical connector clear of rear wall, disconnected connector, connected new sensor and gently pushed wiring and conne
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ctor back into opening, reinstalled door and racks. Ran open thru cycle and used oven thermometer to check temp. fast easy install
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Broken inside view glass
5 of 5 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Michael from Costa Mesa, CA
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
Removed 4 screws top and bottom of the outer door panel. Remove outer door, then the two inner panes of glass. You are then able to remove the broken inner glass. Carefully slide the new inner glass into place, being careful not to tear the insulation. Once new inner glass is in place carefully replace the two inner glass panes and secure
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the screws. Replace the outer door and the top and bottom screws and that's it!
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I broke the inside oven door glass while cleaning it
5 of 6 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
Guy from Little Rock, AR
- Difficult
- More than 2 hours
-
Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench set
The exact part for this oven is no longer available. I purchased one hat was close in size, but larger than the original. Upper and lower brackets hold the glass in place, so length was not a problem but height was. I removed the upper brackets, re-shaped them with the vise, a hammer and metal shears. The glass would now sit inside th
... Read more
e bracket where the screws also went. I had to be quite careful the screws did not shatter the new glass.
The hardest part was aligning the 4 holes for the top brackets. Since 2 holes were on one piece of the door, and 2 were on the other (holding the glass sandwiched between) precision was critical. Also the screw length was critical because the glass now sat in a area where it could come in contact with the screws. (I know - pictures would be most helpful, and I didn't take any.)
Using tape and lots of patience, I got the holes aligned. I covered the old holes inside the oven door with spare screws. I filed down the points of the sheet metal screws so that, if they contacted the glass, they would not be pointed.
Once everything was reassembled, I turned the oven on high for about 1/2 hour to ensure the heated metal and glass all played nicely together. We've had no problems in the month since the repair.
The hardest part was aligning the 4 holes for the top brackets. Since 2 holes were on one piece of the door, and 2 were on the other (holding the glass sandwiched between) precision was critical. Also the screw length was critical because the glass now sat in a area where it could come in contact with the screws. (I know - pictures would be most helpful, and I didn't take any.)
Using tape and lots of patience, I got the holes aligned. I covered the old holes inside the oven door with spare screws. I filed down the points of the sheet metal screws so that, if they contacted the glass, they would not be pointed.
Once everything was reassembled, I turned the oven on high for about 1/2 hour to ensure the heated metal and glass all played nicely together. We've had no problems in the month since the repair.
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Inner glass to oven door shattered
5 of 6 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Robert from Forsyth, MO
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
Removed the 6 screws securing the door and inner frame unit. Lifted off the frame and inner glass unit. Then, after cleaning all the broken glass, put the new glass in; first reattaching the inner frame and then the outer door cover.
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Loose terminal caused block to overheat and break
6 of 10 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Dana from Black Mountain, NC
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Removed all terminals and block mounting screws. Repaired one burnt terminal and reassembled. Replacement part was an exact fit and reassembly whnet very well.
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Replacing inner glass on oven door
5 of 7 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
Kel from Denver, CO
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
The other comments from folks who had done this were very helpful!
I had to go look up the directions for removing the door. To do this flip the latches on the hinges and then close the door as far as you can and pull up, it will come out.
Now lay the door flat on the kitchen counter and take out the 6 screws you can see on th ... Read more e edges and inside of the door. They are all the same so you don't have to keep them organized. Now you can take off the outer door with the handle (lift the inner door out since you will have the door face down at this point) and get it out if the way. Remove the hinges and set them aside but don't get them mixed up.
Next, take out the screws on the inner glass rails, there are two rails. Keep those rails in order for replacement. Take out the middle glass and clean it (this took oven cleaner and a razor blade on the one I had).
Take the middle of the door apart and expose the soft gasket (don't move it!). Clean out any broken glass and Insert your new glass. Put the middle piece of the door back on and line up all the screw holes! Put the first of the glass rails back on and the cleaned middle glass back in place, then the second glass rail. Put in the two screws that hold the glass rails.
Now you are ready to put the door back together. USE THE BOX TO HOLD THE DOOR OFF THE COUNTER WHILE YOU PUT THE HINGES BACK IN AND PUT THE DOOR FRONT BACK ON! If the screw holes don't all line up start the screws and work your way around, you'll get them to go in.
Voila! Door fixed.
I had to go look up the directions for removing the door. To do this flip the latches on the hinges and then close the door as far as you can and pull up, it will come out.
Now lay the door flat on the kitchen counter and take out the 6 screws you can see on th ... Read more e edges and inside of the door. They are all the same so you don't have to keep them organized. Now you can take off the outer door with the handle (lift the inner door out since you will have the door face down at this point) and get it out if the way. Remove the hinges and set them aside but don't get them mixed up.
Next, take out the screws on the inner glass rails, there are two rails. Keep those rails in order for replacement. Take out the middle glass and clean it (this took oven cleaner and a razor blade on the one I had).
Take the middle of the door apart and expose the soft gasket (don't move it!). Clean out any broken glass and Insert your new glass. Put the middle piece of the door back on and line up all the screw holes! Put the first of the glass rails back on and the cleaned middle glass back in place, then the second glass rail. Put in the two screws that hold the glass rails.
Now you are ready to put the door back together. USE THE BOX TO HOLD THE DOOR OFF THE COUNTER WHILE YOU PUT THE HINGES BACK IN AND PUT THE DOOR FRONT BACK ON! If the screw holes don't all line up start the screws and work your way around, you'll get them to go in.
Voila! Door fixed.
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Cracked inner door glass on oven
5 of 8 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Thomas from Rockville Centre, NY
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
I am not the handiest guy around so i was a little nervous doing this job but figured i would take a crack at it ( no pun intended). Took the door off as per instructions from kitchenaid , unscrewed all the outer screws , took off the back of door unscrewed the metal bar holding the glass in ( there are 3 levels of glass) took the 2 good
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glass sheets out got to the broken glass removed that put the new one in , replaced all the other glass and screws and put door back on, and i felt so proud. Probably saved about 150 dollars by doing it myself. I feel so proud.
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The interior oven door glass was broken
4 of 5 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Dante from Apex, NC
- A Bit Difficult
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Screw drivers
I found some of the feedback posted on this site very helpful. Taking photos as I went along was also very helpful in remembering how to put it back together. There are several over-lapping pieces to the door and you have to be careful to put things back together in the correct order. Lining up the screw holes on the hinges with the do
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or is also a little tricky.
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