KDFE454CSS4 KitchenAid Dishwasher - Instructions

I followed the video on the site and it worked perfectly!

watched video took less than 5 min to replace veeeery easy to do

With a little pressure, I was able to push off the broken wheel pieces with my thumbs. I was able to snap on the new wheel pieces really easily.
This job took less than 15 minutes to replace all 4 wheel pieces.

Disconnected the damaged hose extension from the dishwasher outlet drain hose and the connection to the sink drain. Removed two clamps. One a spring clamp and the other a screw clamps. Connected the new extension hose with a spring clamp to the dishwasher outlet drain hose. Connected the other end to the sink drain with a screw clamp. ... Read more Checked for leaks. Good to go!

Gently pull the old door seal out of it's track observing the orientation of the seal and the amount of extra seal at the ends of the seal grove/track..
Start installing the seal on one side leaving about the same amount of extra seal as original seal before removal.
Be sure the seals orientation is the same as the seal that was ... Read more removed.
Carefully pressing the seal into the grove/track designed to hold the seal. Be careful to fully seat the seal into the grove/track.
The corners will be a little tricky, but carefully press and seat the new door seal all the way around. There should be a little extra seal after you get to the end of the grove/track.
Good luck, the new door seal solved my water leak.

After replacing the door seal and the dishwasher still leaked a lot of water out the bottom of the door, I read posts by a couple of other DIY who said the lower spray arm can split at the seam and cause this. One post noted it is very difficult to determine if this is the problem, that you may have to take the blade of a screwdriver and ... Read more try to pry the seam apart gently to see if a gap does appear with very little force being applied. If so, then just imagine what happens when that very hot water makes that plastic more flexible and then the seam opens and forces waves of water against the lower door. I could see a small seam split using that strategy and when I replaced the spray arm, my leak stopped. I don't regret replacing the door seal as it had a couple of small tears and hard water deposits all over it, so it was time to do that even though it was not the culprit for the extensive leak. The arm is SO EASY to replace, just twist the plastic nut under it and it pops right off. Put the new one on and twist the nut the other way and it secures it.

I opened the package took out the replacement part and installed it with no tools. Easy, done in 10 minutes.

The rubber door seal was easy after watching the video. I key point however is that you do have to stretch the seal just a little bit. The video says not to. If you don't like I didn't originally, the seal will only extend from one side to the other without about an inch excess that folds on the bottom of each side. The door still lea ... Read more ked a little without the excess folded on each side. I did one side at a time and pulled out the new seal along the side before curving to the top, and just stretch it slightly to allow the excess. This stopped the leak.

The lower door seal was ok to do. The most important step there is to remember how the front door panel is installed. Taking pictures before and during removal may help. It is awkward to do by yourself, but can be done. I found that putting a balled-up towel at the top of the door helps when trying to reinstall the front panel.

Pull the old seal out and push the new seal in. Done. Easy. The only issue is the door is still leaking and I have to replace the seal and the plate that goes across the bottom of the door.

Order both this seal and the seal for the bottom of the door at the same time.

First, I bought the door balance link to replace the broken links that connect to the springs.

Because I didn't have enough slack to simply pull out the dishwasher far enough to reach the springs, I had to disconnect the water line and electrical wiring.
The only reason my repair took as long as it did was because there w ... Read more as so little room underneath the dishwasher for disconnecting the water line. I had to buy a shorter adjustable wrench. Also, I had leaks after reconnecting the water line. I had to tighten the compression nut as far as it would go. The nut wrapped around a white substance that had been applied to the threads (I believe this is called pipe tape), which did the trick for sealing the leak.

The repair was a complete success! The parts arrived fast and the information from other customers on the the PartsSelect website was invaluable.

Still not sure it is repaired. Still have water leakage around upper edge of door on control data panel. We just experienced an issue with the auto drain system, the first since door seal repair and door latch replacement???? Is the latching mechanism suppose to secure the door?
If so it isn't?
Not a great success story. A new ... Read more washer may be in the cards

After I finally got the right parts and installed them I discovered that even though I had bought the OEM part for my dishwasher it not only didn't fit but prevented me from even getting the upper rack back in the dishwasher. The dishwasher won't work with out the upper rack properly in place. Every part store I looked at offered the sa ... Read more me part for my dishwasher so obviously Whirlpool made a huge mistake. Since it's not possible to get the old parts back on (one of them was broken anyway which is what started all of this) I had to buy a new dishwasher. I did contact Whirlpool by email but got no response. If you own a Whirlpool dishwasher be very cautious buying any replacement parts.

1. Remove front of door with torx screws around inside top and sides of door.
2. Unclip and remove plug with two wires for dish soap solenoid. You may have to lie on your back or use a mirror to see the location of the small clip retaining the plug.
3. Unclip and remove dispenser module. Here's the rub: the clips used to retai ... Read more n the unit in the door panel of my dishwasher are tabs cut in the stainless steel cut-out and rolled back at a 90 degree angle to retain their springiness. They seat against the back edge of three plastic ridges along the top, bottom and one along each side of the dispenser module. The key is to remove the module without permanently bending these tabs, thereby losing their springiness and destroying their ability to clip tight against the new module to hold it in. I had some success slipping 3 pieces of flashing under the stainless tabs along the top and sides of the old module, allowing the plastic retaining ridges to ride under the tabs all together and move forward to disengage the clips without permanently bending the tabs.
4. Reassembly is just the reverse.

Removed the inner panel, remove electrical connection to dispenser, remove dispenser, metal tabs that hold it in, are a bit hard to pry metal tabs, and when installing net dispenser tabs are also a little difficult to pry tabs to install but doable. So far works like it should.

At first I thought I needed a new bottom rack for my dishwasher. Out of curiosity, I watched the installation video and realized that the Tine Row installed separately and that was the only part I needed. I am appreciative of being able to access that video and the money I saved. Installation took seconds to complete.