KCMS2 - Instructions

I decided the door switch was the problem because 2 problems happened at the same time. I removed the 4 screws for the top outside cover and the 1 screw that held the control board. After removing the control board screw, I lifted it up and removed it. This gave me access to the 3 door switches. I then removed the 2 screws that held t ... Read more he plastic piece that holds the switches. This made it easier then to replace the switches.

tested all 3 of the door switche for continuity, the top switch was faulty, replaced it,for approx $4.00 and saved a $350 dollar microwave.

Over the stove microwave installed in top cabinet row.
1. Unplug device.
2. Two people to remove from wall/cabinet (remove two, large, top mounting screws and rotate entire microwave down and off the wall mount). Should be some wood spacers between top of device and bottom of cabinet.
3. Remove screws from sheet metal cover ... Read more .
4. Remove one screw holding blowers in place and rotate out of the way, in order to gain access to 2 of 5 screws that hold the magnetron in place.
5. Unplug magnetron and remove the 5 screws.
6. Drop in new magnetron and re-assemble microwave in reverse order (steps 5-3).
7. Two people restore micro to wall/cabinet. Replace wood spacers, re-install two, large mounting screws (finger-tight). Test device. Secure the two large screws.

Had a Trim Kit to remove, just 2 screws on the front to pull it out. Had to remove the tamperproof screws on the back (the outer shell is held on by them). I had to goto a local hardware store as nothing anywhere mentioned I needed this special tool (NOTE!!!!!!!) The bottom had normal phillips head screws. Note: I did not take the entire ... Read more shell off, just bent it enough so the base plate could be pulled out. This exposed the motor, which strangely enough is NOT held in by any screws, just notches it slides in. Took the old motor out, came out VERY easily (only 1 plug to pull out). The new motors flange tab was bent a little bit so I had to use pliers to bend it back flat so it would fit in the notch on the bottom of the microwave (very easy). Overall A bit difficult due to special tool needed 9at least for me)

Note: also had to replace turntable. Removed top cover using secure driver set. Placed microwave on it's front, using a soft towel. Removed edge screws from bottom plate (leaving 4 screws in center attached to heavy transformer). Separated bottom plate from body of microwave (leaving transformer wires still attached) exposing Synchrono ... Read more us motor. Removed two screws holding motor and electrical plug. Swapped new motor in its place. Re-attached bottom plate with its screws. Placed microwave onto it normal position. Re-attached top cover with its secure screws. Installed new turntable inside.

1. Removed exterior cabinet using vice grips to grab the heads of the screws.

2. Removed old broken latch.

3. Snapped the new latch into place. Be careful spreading the two brackets that receive the latch so that they don't break.

4. Re-install exterior.

Removed each switch (3) and checked them with multi-meter; got intermittent readings on two of the three. Also broke of a piece of the frame that holds the switches trying to remove them (old, exposed to heat and moisture over the years caused the plastic to become brittle and the wiring connectors were also hard to disconnect probably be ... Read more cause of heat and moisture over the years).
Went to PartSelect web site and discovered the three switches and frame were bundled in to one part number, 43501A. So, I called and spoke with a very knowledgeable technician and she explained why plus helped me order the part over the phone. When I received the part, the switches were already mounted in the frame and the frame was modified compared to the OEM frame. As I began to remove the old frame, I discovered why the new frame was modified. It was as if PartSelect had done many of these door interlock repairs and they knew exactly where and how to modify the frame and communicated this with the manufacturer, because the new frame installation was very easy, there was nothing hard about installing the new frame with the switches already in place. I then reconnected the wiring to the switches and tested the microwave and it works fine now, Problem solved, Thanks PartSelect.com

Removed micro bottom - 5 screws. One screw on the motor and a clip. Reversed the sequence, turned it on and watched it turn.

Unplugged appliance. Removed external cover's screw's from the microwave. Unplugged 3 internal plugs for wiring harness to the control panel which houses the door latch. Removed old door latch, carefully snapped new door latch in. Reassembled unit in reverse of dis assembly.

Removed case,
Discharged HV capacitor and removed cooling fan.
Unscrewed ground end of HV diode and unplugged from HV capacitor.
Installed new diode by reversing the order. In my case, the problem was the magnetron was bad, so I replaced it as well.

Took the cover off, had a lot of screws but easy. Removed the old motor and inserted the new motor. Replace the metal cover and it was ready to go. Can't believe I have waited so long to do this. I was going to replace the microwave but could not find the correct size to fit the cabinet.

I removed the microwave from its built-in position by removing the faceplace. This was a simple four phillips screw removal. I then removed the microwave and the rear housing. This required the special TORX T20 security star screwdriver. Once the main microwave housing was removed the broken latch was apparent and easily accessible. The l ... Read more ongest part of this process was getting the security star driver and ordering the part. It literally took sixty seconds to replace the part. Another three minutes to replace the housing and Another five minutes to put the microwave back in place. This was an easy repair and saved me about $400 in replacement costs.I am very satisfied with the ease of determining the part I needed on the website, the cost of the part, the shipping was timely, and the overall experience by far surpassed my expectations. I am by no means a handy person but the instruction and detail associated with the purchase gave me the confidence and knowledge needed to complete the task.

Remove 2 Philips Head screws on left side of microwave. Remove 3 Philips Head screws from bottom rear of microwave. Remove 4 security screws from back of microwave (holding the cover to frame). These are the security type tips that are like a Torx bit, but need to be hollow in middle to accommodate pin in center of screw. Then back pl ... Read more ate of microwave with heavy transformer still attached slides up and away. The wires aren't long enough to allow it to rest flat on the bench, but weight is low so it's easy to hold it upright while removing the motor unit. Separate connector from motor (simple) Remove motor by unscrewing 1 phillips head screw and rotating counter-clockwise a tiny bit. Remove Motor. Reverse steps to re-assemble. Note that there are a series of tabs at the bottom of the back cover that fit into holes in the baseplate of microwave. It can be a little tricky to line them up with the weight of the transformer, but it's not too bad. Once lined up, it drops in nicely and all the various screw holes line up. The microwave is a bad cooker when the plate doesn't spin. This simple and inexpensive fix saved me from having to buy a whole new oven.

Removed the MW from the wall. Took the top screws off the air vent. Then removed the two screws holding on the display. I then moved the display to its side and it revealed the micro switches. I removed the plug in leads from the micro switch one at a time. I did this with all three micro switches only one at a time. I reinstalled everyth ... Read more ing and plugged it in. No more fans starting when the door is opened.

Although the housing cover of the microwave had the "tamper-proof screws" described by earlier commenters, I easily removed them with pliers rather than a special screwdriver. Like others, I found that one of the two hinge posts on the plastic Door Latch Bracket had broken off. The broken bracket could be removed easily, but I had troub ... Read more le fitting the blade of the replacement part into position until I loosened one more screw on the receiving latch board to allow extra maneuvering room. Only then did both hinge posts fit into their proper mounts and snap in easily.