KBSD612ESS01 KitchenAid Refrigerator - Instructions

Remove the ice bucket and check that the auger that turns in the ice bucket is free to turn. Cover the open freezer with cardboard or whatever to retain most of the freezer temperature. Remove the holder that supports the top of the motor shaft. Check the splines on the upper part of the motor shaft and also check the seal under the holder. Open the access the door to the motor, remove wiring connector and unbolt the motor. Check the lower splines on motor shaft for condition, clean the shaft and apply new grease to the splines. Before installing, connect the wiring to the new motor, push the door switch in, press the ice dispenser arm outside the door to make sure the motor runs. If all ok, check the motor shaft for fit in the new motor. Be careful not to install the motor shaft too deep in the motor splines, otherwise there may not be enough spline showing on the top end to engage the auger. Bolt the motor in place, close access door and install the holder and ice bucket and make sure everything works. If there is not enough spline showing thru the holder to engage the auger, take pliers and pull the shaft up a bit. This seems to be a hit or miss fit on the shaft but you can adjust the height of the shaft without taking every thing apart again. That's all, not difficult at all. But do check parts and pieces for anything else you might need, parts wise, before ordering the motor by itself like I did. Shipping is high, so try to order any associated parts needed when you order the motor. By the way, This site are great to work with!

I just popped out the old switch with a flat head screwdriver. Removed the connections and then installed new switch by reversing steps. Popped in back in and the light went on.

Just needed to replace the water filter

The repair went OK, it is done. It would have been easier if a nut driver was not needed. Plus the location of the nuts was a bit difficult to manage a removal but not impossible.

Followed the instruction video.

I had to remove ice storage compartment sitting above motor on door to expose auger gear. Then used a small socket to remove 4 screws from underside of auger motor compartment in door. Motor drops out with a small wiring harness attached. This simply unplugs and then swaps in with new motor. Auger axel was sanded to remove rust and grease applied. Motor door and ice compartment were then reattached.

Over the last several years we have had several appliance repairmen try to fix the icemaker. One replaced the entire icemaker. We bought a booster pump for the water. After spending about $1,000 over the past few years trying to fix the problem, a plumber doing routine plumbing work looked at it, and said it might be the control board. I found instructions online how to test the control boards. I ran the test, and they failed. I ordered the parts from PartSelect, followed their easy instructions, and tested the new units. They passed with flying colors. We now actually have an automatic icemaker for the first time in years.

Pried out old part with screwdriver. Unplugged. When new part came, just plugged it in and pushed the part into place.

Eased the putty knife under the edge of the switch housing and pried it off. Pulled two wires off the old terminals and hooked them onto the new one and reinstalled into the refrigerator body.

We looked up the problem online with the model number of the refrigerator. We ordered the part and followed the video installation that was sent with the order and was found online prior to purchasing

Put One card in one side and other card on the opposite side, push in on both sides to press in clips that hold light in. Once clips are in light will start to come out unplug light and plug in new light. Push light back in.

I went online and watched a U-tube video that said it was most likely the electronic emitter and receiver boards and showed how to replace them. I first unplugged the appliance (just to be safe) then, I unscrewed the screws holding the faceplate on. The board simply has a plug which you unplug with a little care and effort. I then plugged in the new board, resituated it into the hole and screwed the faceplate back on. You simply do the same for the other board on the other side. Viola! Lots and lots of ice!! The guy at sears said I shouldn't do work on such a complex appliance. Probably because I am a woman! Anyone can do this job! Winning!

After unplugging refrigerator, removed emitter and receiver cover plates on each side of freezer unit (3 screws each) and mounting screws for circuit boards. Unplugged old boards and plugged in new ones and reinstalled boards and then cover plates. Although, indicator code lights seem to still indicate a problem, ice maker has resumed operating after 24 hr.

My icemaker quit 3 years back and at that time I searched for do-it yourself repair books with no success. I found this parts place web site and people having the same problems as myself. I purchased the parts as others have and problem solved! Ice all the time, woo hoo!

I replaced the Electronic control boards because the indicator lights were letting me know that there was a problem, but!!!! when that did not fix the problem, I took the ice maker out and removed the control module from the end of the icemaker only to find out that water had gotten in there and corroded the electronic contacts... this may have been why the indicator lights were not working on the emitter and receiver. I was going to purchase just the module, but the entire ice tray was beginning to de-laminate and plastic was flaking off all over. To make a long story somewhat shorter, I purchased a new icemaker and it works fine... one caution though... My icemaker did not come with any information that told me I had to flip the icemaker to the "on" position from vacation mode by inserting a screwdriver in the back of the module inside of a small white ring. This hole is where the shut off arm WOULD go if my model had one.