KBRS22KW Refrigerator - Instructions

Unplugged wire, loosened two screws on top took out lower screw.Lifted the ice maker up and out it came. The wiring that came with the new part was to short so we unplugged ours from the old part and used it:) was really easy and works great now no leaks

First I unplugged the appliance, then I took the two screws out that hold the cover over the temp. control knobs,then I removed the cover from the fan and thermocouple probe end. Then I unplugged the two hot wires from the thermostat,and then the ground wire. Then removed the two screws holding the thermostat in place and removed old ther ... Read more mostat. Installed new thermostat following steps in reverse order.

Pop off vent cover remove 2 screws removed cover housing and foam. Removed damper by unclipping tabs on left and right side of control lift up and out. Unplugged power wires reinstalled in reverse order.

We snapped the new one on correctly this time.

I simply removed the old switch using 2 small screwdrivers and the old switch case popped out. I then upluged the wires from the old switch and reversed the process. Didn't take longer than 5 minutes begining to end! Thank you for the great service! Duncan quaid

Easy fix, it's right in the back of the fridge under a cover that just clips in, a piece of foam, and two screws. The hardest part is getting the clips free without breaking them. After replacement it's silent instead of making a grinding noise regularly.

The repair didn't get done, because both times that I requested a 25-Watt Light Bulb, I received a 3.6 Watt bulb instead & neither one worked. So I tried testing the original bulb in a table lamp & it worked. So I sense that the problem may be in the switch that allows the light to turn on when the drawer is opened & shut off when the d ... Read more rawer is closed.

1.unplugged the refrigerator.and took off 2 knobs, and 2 screws to remove the cover from the back wall of the refrigerator.Next I unhooked 3 wires,and removed the mounting bracket by removing 1 screw. I had to use a file to slightly modify the bracket, since the thermostat was not the exact same model as the original,due to the age of the ... Read more refrigerator.(40+years) I reassembled in the reverse order, and it works great

Failure detected as Damper Control at upper rear of compartment would continuously open/close, would never stay open or closed. Sometimes the main board would turn it off (maybe a low thermistor limit?), but it would stick open a bit, and keeping letting freezer air into fridge. Could have potentially been control board, but as it turns ... Read more out after disassembly of the defective damper, the internal microswitch was stuck in the closed position so it wouldn't shut off the motor. Easy fix by gently pulling the cover off the damper control, pull out Styrofoam encasement, then a phillips to remove the damper assembly. Gently push tabs to release wire connectors. Reverse the process and you're done! If I really wanted to go on the cheap, I could have just changed the microswitch, but that looked like a shaky maneuver at best. This site saved me on this one, so happy to share my experience with this Maytag and its nasty habit of freezing my milk and eggs!! :)

I removed 1 bottom screw and 2 upper screws useing a 1/4 inch socket nut driver. then useing a flat edge screwdriver i incerted in slot to remove wiring cluster. to install just reverse process. you maye have to cut u-shape slot for water spout to sit in.

Popped off the control panel at the top behind the door. Found the thermistor and replaced it, cutting the wires and splicing the new one in. Immediately the warm section of the refrigerator was getting below freezing temperature readings, so the cooling vent was not opening. I put the old one back on and the temperature readings went ... Read more back to being accurate. So this was not the problem. I believe now that the fan somehow is not blowing enough cold air up. So now I'll probably buy a fan motor and maybe a blade and try that. Otherwise the computer module I priced at $500 so I hope it isn't that. I replace the fan motor a few years ago already.

Removed the old timer from the housing. The replacement came with good instructions. I followed the instructions corresponding to the color wires in my unit. The first time it was installed, the fridge did not come on and the temperature rose after a couple hours. Looked at the part and realized the defrost cycle must have kicked in. Need ... Read more ed to slightly turn the gray slotted part to initiate the timer so it would stop the defrost and start the fridge. That did it! It must have advanced the timer so it could accumulate run time. Whole repair saved us $3000 in a new fridge.

First, I removed the two thermostat knobs, then the snap-on plastic cover. Then, I removed the 4 screws holding the housing for the timer, thermostats, etc., and dropped it down enough to remove the timer and the wiring harness going into it. Installing the new one was the same process, in reverse. Quite simple!

Replaced refrigerator cooling control. No luck. Replaced freezer cooling control. No luck. Coils were icing up. Unplugged frig and allowed coils to defrost. After more poking around, found that condenser fan was not spinning. Touch it and it'd start. That was definitely in need of replacement. Replacement was easy. Refrigerator is ... Read more now running as it should.

Remove rail and removed broken black plastic spring mechanism with new one and then replace rail.