KBRS22KVSS3 KitchenAid Refrigerator - Instructions

The installation video for condenser fan motor helped a lot to know how to disconnect the old fan motor and connect the new one. So easy just know how to remove and put back the fan gently, observe carefully where is the center and the connector position; 15 min after everything was done and the unit works well to date.

Removed the plastic frame, washed the frame and fridge, set new glass into the frame.

The switch fix but did not fix the problem. I assumed the wires go on the same way as on the old switch. Is it possible if one light Burns out, the other will not work either?

with the freezer working I knew the compressor was working. I confirmed that the actuator door in the refrigerator was working but no air was blowing out. The hardest part was removing all the freezer drawer components and the ice maker so I could remove the panel in the back covering the evaporator motor. A quick resistance check of ... Read more the motor confirmed no continuity in the motor. Take your time so that you dont break any of the snap in pieces. The motor I received did not look like the one I was replacing, but in fit in place and bolted right in. They provided an adapter wire to connect the wiring. All in all it was a fairly easy job. The video I followed was very helpful.

Checked Video online. Had to remove the 2 snap on track/gear covers. Pry out the gear with screwdriver and the gear bearing unit. Align the flat side of the bearing unit and snap in. Position the cut teeth on the gear to match original and snap into the bearing. Insert the connecting rod into the long shaft gear and then push back into ... Read more the short shaft gear. The video said to remove the drawer front but I did not and don't see that it necessary.

Motor evaporate. Replacement. Just like the video and it worked out perfect. Refrigerator works great now.

This problem is caused by a "Duckbill" rubber grommet attached to the bottom drain tube of the freezer. This duckbill opens up during the defrost cycle and allows water to drain down the "water slide" to the evaporator pan. It doesn't take much to gum the Duckbill. Once gummed up the defrost water is trapped. The Defrost Cycle eventually ... Read more makes the water flow out of the coil area to the bottom of the freezer then eventually to the floor. The repair involves unplugging the unit, removing the bottom back cover with a 1/4 nut driver, pop the power clip out to give you room, reach in and pull the duckbill grommet and the water slide, then installing this replacement drain kit. This is a p trap replacement that actually fixes the root cause of this problem. A tricky part is removing the water slide, you can see the white snap that holds the slide in place. Using a small flat blade from the top releases the snap and the unit is pulled upward rather easily. This replacement drain clip snaps in the same place. If I had to do this again it wouldn't take more than two minutes to replace. Oh, one major thing, you need to manually defrost the unit. I pulled the front door off, it is held with 4 screws ... don't remove them just loosen them and it pops off easily. I pulled the bottom tray out an it gave me room to squirt hot water with a baster into the back freezer area. Eventually everything thawed out. If I had it to do over I would have waited on connecting the tube to the evaporator pan and placed the bottom of the tube into a small sauce pan or something to collect the drain water and easily dump it into the sink. I used a sponge and that took forever. BTW, just to reiterate, use this item and not that Duck Bill for replacement, this actually fixes the root cause of this problem!

Everything went as planned except the cold temperature (freezer door switch located inside freezer) made deflection of the switch locking tab difficult to remove. Letting the switch warm up was not an option.

Watched the video that was attached with part invoice. Video made it easy to perform since I’ve never done this task before.

Removed rear cover, removed fan and than drip tray. install new tray and reassemblied

inst said,"50 pct of the time this calls for new capacitor," so we changed the capacitor. Same prob. It also said,"25 pct of the time it's the bi-metal thermostat" So we ordered it. We removed the plastic rear panel from inside the freezer comp. using small nut driver. Here we found much ICE surrounding the defrost unit, three inches thic ... Read more k. We thawed the whole mess. and the freezer has worked fine ever since. I think my habit of getting ice cubes from the inside container rather than from the ice cube dispenser, had kep t the freezer door open too much, interfering with the normal defrost cycle and allowing ice to build up over time so that it finally defeated the system. My new rule, "get ice cubes only from the front."

Not so good that was not the problem. Fan is not seized and all the lights work and display is not on but lights up as well. No start once plugged back in after 15 minutes of being unplugged. Nothing same no change.

Followed video

Used the suggested problem list here to narrow down that the repair was most likely the run capacitor. Poped the new one in and I now have better control of my compartment ranges. I have a temperature gauge in each compartment. Check them every opening of the doors.

It was easy, remove clips and install new basket hanger and then just clip on the clips.