KBRS22KK KitchenAid Refrigerator - Instructions
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Icemaker was not making ice and was noisy
4 of 7 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Edgar from Fredericksburg, TX
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
I first removed the icemaker pump and filler tube fron the back of the refrigerator by using an adjustable wrench and pliers. (very simple connection) I went ahead and replaced both items at that time.
Next I opened the bottom freezer and removed the top wire tray and ice container. I removed the bottom nut from the ice maker ... Read more , pulled the electrical plug lose from the freezer connection. I then just lifted the ice maker upward and off the two screws on the side wall and out it came!
I had a little trouble with the filler tube as it came into the freezer. I had to go back and forth to the back of the refrigerator and freezer a couple of times adjusting the tube, so it woiuld clear the inside freezer wall.
This was a very minor problem. I feel like if I had followed the instructions and made sure the tube came through before attaching the icemaker it would have worked like a charm!
What I really liked, was everything was in the box for the job.
Next I opened the bottom freezer and removed the top wire tray and ice container. I removed the bottom nut from the ice maker ... Read more , pulled the electrical plug lose from the freezer connection. I then just lifted the ice maker upward and off the two screws on the side wall and out it came!
I had a little trouble with the filler tube as it came into the freezer. I had to go back and forth to the back of the refrigerator and freezer a couple of times adjusting the tube, so it woiuld clear the inside freezer wall.
This was a very minor problem. I feel like if I had followed the instructions and made sure the tube came through before attaching the icemaker it would have worked like a charm!
What I really liked, was everything was in the box for the job.
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defective light switch
3 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
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THOMAS from WILLARD, OH
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
inserted a knife between the switch and the plastic interior in order to pop the switch out.
then took off the 2 wires on the old switch put them on the new switch and reinserted the switch into the plastic interior.
then took off the 2 wires on the old switch put them on the new switch and reinserted the switch into the plastic interior.
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Light switch wasn't working.. As I would close the door I would notice our frig light wasn't going off...
3 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
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David from Hemet, CA
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
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Pliers, Screw drivers
I simply removed the old switch by gently pulling down on the old switch with a screwdriver. When it was about half way out I just gently pulled down on the old switch and it popped out... I removed the two connectors attached to the old switch by pulling on the connectors with a pliers...I tried using my fingers but wasn't able to pull t
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he connectors off so I used pliers. It worked perfectly.. When pulling off the old connectors, make sure you attach the new switch to the same tabs on the new switch... It was very easy to do and took under 5 mins.....The light switch works perfect....P.S. You should unplug the frig while making the connection just in case....Safety first....!!!
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Freezer door gasket replacement
3 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Andrew from San Diego, CA
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
It was easy. I followed the video that was on the item page, and the installation went really smooth. Remember to heat the gasket up before installing.
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Divider front of fridge hot to touch Condenser fan not working
3 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
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John from Holden, MA
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers
removed back cover, removed fan motor and replaced with new one. connected new power wires. worked right away
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poor cooling
3 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
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JOHN from WESTMINSTER, CO
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
removed cover in back of freezer and observed that defrost cycle seemed to happen too often. In comparing the existing part # with the factory part, I determined that possibly the wrong part was installed previously. (it had a 6 hr cooling cycle with a 45 min defrost...spec said I should be 8 hr cool & 20 min defrost) I did research on
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applianceguru.com... well worth the 5 bucks! I ordered a timer & thermostat & purchased a special refrigerator brush to clean the coils on the bottom. Cleaned the coils, replaced the parts in about 15 minutes and WA-LA! the freezer started getting really cold, but the fridge wouldn't get below 55. but it FELT cold! I swapped thermometers with the freezer & found out the thermometer was faulty!!! I now have the cool control backed down to 5/7 & freezer to 6/7. temps are freeze 0 and cool 40. works better than since we bought home 5 yrs ago! research & troubleshooting took a bit of time, but by the time I ordered parts I felt very comfortable I had the right parts. All said, cost me about 40 bucks instead of probably $200 from tech... schematics from partselect.com were very helpful as well!!
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Refrigerator quit cooling and the freezer wasn't freezing anything
4 of 7 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Tonya from Grand Prairie, TX
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Socket set
Order the part from the Internet on Sunday, it mailed out on Monday and I received it on Tuesday. I unplugged the fan then undone 3 screws that held the fan bracket to the refrigerator pulled it out unscrewed 3 more nuts and replaced the fan on the bracket and I cut the old wire plug off the old fan and with 2 wire nuts put it on my new f
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an. Replaced the fan and bracket back on the refrigerator plugged it in and it works like a new refrigerator.
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Circuit Breaker tripped/shut down frig. every 8 hrs when time switched on
3 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
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David from Atlantic Beach, FL
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
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Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Removed timer kit (this was the second time for this part)/ replaced - this is a fairly simple job and take 5 minutes. The defrost thermostat take about 10 minutes to get to and take out the old one, replacement is a 2 minute job, unplug and replace, the longest part of this job is getting the back of the freezer off and then replaced, b
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ut it is fairly simple to do. Total time to diagnose about 15 minutes, replacement parts arrived in 2 business days, replacement time 15 - 18 minutes total. Recommend getting the thermostat and timer together. The first time this happened, only order the timer but I think the problem was the thermostat all along and the time seemed to be operating but when it came on every eight hours it tripped the circuit breaker Not sure which was really the problem, but all working fine now.
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Abnormally warm temperatures in freezer/fresh food section
3 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
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James from Westfield, MA
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
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Pliers, Screw drivers
After unplugging the appliance I needed to thaw a large ice buildup off the evaporator cover panel before I could even remove the panel. The freezer being on the lower part of the appliance has the evaporator mounted vertically and it was 100% encapsulated in rock hard ice. It took over an hour to thaw the ice and collect all the water
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with a shop vacuum, since the condensate pan began to overflow.
One thawed, I checked all wiring for good connection, checked heater, defrost thermostat, timer unit with multimeter. The defrost thermostat checked out fine after putting it into another freezer for a 15 minute cooldown, but I noticed a crack in the seal and suspected internal moisture and decided to replace that part. A simple plug in of two leads to the new part after clipping it to the evaporator, replacement of the panel, and the appliance was up and running problem free.
A workbench disection of the old part confirmed my assessment, it had internal rust and water and had failed causing the defrost cycle failure.
One thawed, I checked all wiring for good connection, checked heater, defrost thermostat, timer unit with multimeter. The defrost thermostat checked out fine after putting it into another freezer for a 15 minute cooldown, but I noticed a crack in the seal and suspected internal moisture and decided to replace that part. A simple plug in of two leads to the new part after clipping it to the evaporator, replacement of the panel, and the appliance was up and running problem free.
A workbench disection of the old part confirmed my assessment, it had internal rust and water and had failed causing the defrost cycle failure.
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did not have a ice maker
5 of 10 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Ralph from Argenta, IL
- Really Easy
- More than 2 hours
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Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench set
remove parts that were not need installed water valve , ice maker unit and hooked up water supply tested and it works fine. got the parts really quick Thank You
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The refrigerator stopped running
4 of 7 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Barbara H. from South Hill, VA
- Easy
- 1- 2 hours
-
Screw drivers
I was told to order the run capacitor and the technician thought it would repair the refrigerator; but it did not. The appliance technician had to take the run capacitor off and install what he called a "hard start" and the refrigerator is operating right now.
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The upper refrigerator section was warm, but not the freezer
3 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Douglas from Simsbury, CT
- Easy
- 1- 2 hours
-
Nutdriver, Pliers
The refrig seemed warm so I checked the temp of some liquid with a thermometer. Readings were above 60 degrees and I knew food would spoil soon. I vacuumed the dog fur off the cooling coils underneath the machine to see if that would help. Nope. I realized cold air from the freezer was not reaching the refrig. The fan was working but
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no cold air was coming out. I figured a blockage either in the air duct from the refrig or in the return duct to the freezer. I didn’t see any blockage in the refrig section. I took everything out of the freezer and removed the back wall. The cooling coils were completely frozen solid with frost. Being a frost free machine, I knew there were heaters that were controlled by a timer that melted this frost away periodically and that this cycle was no longer working. I found a schematic on the web, maybe your site, and educated myself on the heater circuit. The circuit consisted of a timer, thermostat near the coils, and a cal rod heater all wired in series. The timer was easy to get to and being a mechanical device I figured it must be the culprit. I ordered one online. I checked its operation and it worked fine. Realizing time was short, I hot wired the cal rod around the thermostat and rotated the timer to its heat position. The frost melted quickly and I put the freezer back together and ordered a thermostat. I canceled the timer order. When it arrived, I installed the new thermostat and it has worked fine for the past month. A little colder than usual as I don’t yet have the settings back to where they were. I have checked the operation of the old thermostat. It’s supposed to close at 30 degrees and open at 45. I have done a continuity check on it by putting it in the freezer, letting it cool down, take it out, let it warm up and it seems to work fine. So I have doubts if I really solved the problem. Wire connections were tight and not corroded. Maybe the timer was hung up on debris that I freed by cycling it. I don’t think this is the end of the story.
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Gaskets were damaged
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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MARVIN from EL CERRITO, CA
- Really Easy
- 1- 2 hours
-
Nutdriver
Followed the video instruction and it was fairly easy to install. Let the gaskets sit for a day to reshape itself. Started by loosening the screws then removal of the gasket was done. The only hard part was to align the Gasket evenly. Not removing the doors made the install a little more difficult for alignment.
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Not Cooling or freezing
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Walton from Rainbow City, AL
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Most difficult part was finding where they hid the defrost timer. (it is in the left front under the fridge behind the kick panel.) just unscrew the two fastener screws from the front, tilt fridge up on one side, slide timer bracket back and remove. Unplug and remove timer from metal bracket. Replace timer and remount bracket.
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Fan not blowing
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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John from Bainbridge, PA
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver
Unplug refrigerator, remove ice maker if you have one, all you need is a 1/4 " nut driver or socket. I used a 1/4" drive socket set with a1/4" socket. After the ice maker is out of the way, remove the panel on the back of the freezer to expose the fan. Remove the 2 screws holding the fan in place , and disconnect the wires that are plug
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ged on to the connectors. Remove any ice that has built up around the condenser and install the new fan. Plug the refrigerator back in to insure the fan runs. If it works, unplug refrigerator again and install the panel over the fan, and install the ice maker again. Plug the refrigerator back in and put all your frozen food back in the freezer. That's it , Simple!!
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