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KBRS22KF Refrigerator - Instructions

All Instructions for the KBRS22KF
121 - 135 of 383

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refrigerator was warm, freezer was normal/cold.
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • Jeffrey from Wausau, WI
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver
Removed the cover to the timer, 2 nut screws. Easy. Then emptied freezer, and took off back plate with nut driver. Replaced thermostat. 2 wire plugs that were easy to complete. Left back off, let thermostat normalize temperature, then switched to defrost setting. Worked like a charm.
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frig. missing door bushing.
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • tim from mayfield village, OH
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 15 - 30 mins
I had to cut a groove in the bushing to put the elec. wires through it, & then just remove the hinge, put the bushing in & replace the hing.
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Refrigerator warm
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • Caren from Marlboro, NY
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
First of all let me say I can't believe I fixed it! And I can thank this website for it, they also had my part at my front door in less than 24 hours. I am so amazed! I am a stay at home Mom, and because my husband is always off with the military I knew the job was up to me to fix. And because times are tough we certainly couldn't afford a repairman. After reading many stories here about the same problem I had, I diagnosed what was wrong with my refrigerator. The defrost thermostat was faulty. First thing to do was turn off the refrig and then unplug it. I then emptied the bottom freezer, used a screwdriver to remove back panel wall. Lo and behold the coils were covered with ice. I defrosted the freezer using a blow dryer, also had to empty the drip pan in the back. when it got full of water. ANd because there is no way to remove the drip pan, I actually got a small air hose from my son's old fish tank(clean one) and then siphoned the water into a pot, took all of 10 minutes! I then used needle nose pliers to remove the bad defrost thermostat from the refrig's wiring.The defrost thermostat which had a bulge in it so knew I was on the right path. I looked at the new defrost thermostat and they had different ends on it then the one I just removed, and I remember reading what another member did, and that was to cut off the connecting caps, strip the wires , use electrical tape to join them and use a crimping tool to place the old caps on to the new defrost thermostat .I then inserted the thermostat to the freezer's wiring. Hope that makes sense to everyone. WEll, everything is running great! Thank-You Part Select, you saved me lots of money!
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Condenser fan making noise
2 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Richard from North Easton, MA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Wrench set
I removed 7 screws hold the heavy cardboard cover on the rear of the fridge. The dificult part was taking the screws that hold the 3 fan motor braces on the fan out. After that it was a matter of making the wire conections and putting it back in. I did not have enough room to laydown to do the work, If i had it would have been a lot easi er to see the screws that had to be removed. All in all an easy job, and the part was a perfect fit.
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Worked like a charm. Thanks
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • Keith from Cherryville, NC
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires... Put a thermometer in a glass of water & now runs at 38 degrees.
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Circulation fan was not running
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • Ryan from Otsego, MN
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
I have a side by side Amana fridge about 12 years old. One day I noticed everything was not cold anymore. I checked the temp with my infrared thermometer and it was about 70 in the top of the fridge, 40-50 in the bottom, and freezer was the same! So after pulling out the two baskets in the bottom of the freezer and the side rails that hol d the baskets, I used a 1/4 nut driver to remove the back lower panel. After looking at the electrical schematic on the back of the fridge, I jumpered around the defrost thermostat, a little cylinder with two wires coming out of it. Bingo, the fan turned on. Well after a few days of running fine with it jumpered my new one arrived. I never really tested my old one with a meter so I did that and it tested fine, so I plugged the old one back in and it worked fine for a few days. Then one day I noticed that fan wasn't running again so I just put the new one in. I had to cut one of the connectors off as it was female instead of male and crimp cap it together, but besides that it went fine. So after connecting it I noticed the fan motor was buzzing but not spinning. I wiggled wires around and determined the connector going into the fan motor had to be a certain way to make the connection. I unplugged it, it wasn't corroded or anything but if pulled down on, it would not make connection. So pulling up on the connector proved that it would make good connection, so a ziptie keeping the wires tight in the up direction proved to be the solution. I'm pretty sure my old defrost thermostat was not the problem. So that's my story. Hope it helped.
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Freezer dripping - old gasket
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • Royce from Allen, TX
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
First let me say the part arrived much faster than I anticipated! I was able to use the box (cardboard) the part came in to cover the freezer while the door was being worked on. I did not remove the door, but did remove all the screws that held the door inner part that the gasket fits around. Like another person wrote, my insulation in the door was frozen. I took that out and put new insulation in. I then fit the gasket around it and then screwed it back on. I have an electric screw driver and without the bit, it fit these hex screws perfectly, so I was able to unscrew and screw quickly.

Unfortunately, I realized the cause for the dripping was due to a faulty defrost thermostat. I'm guessing that part will arrive tomorrow. We did need a new gasket, however, so I don't regret it.
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Freezer Cold But Frig Warm
2 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • ROBERT from LONG VALLEY, NJ
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
This is easy. Remove lower vent in front of frig to change timer. Unplug and put new one in. . . . 10 Min. To change the thermostat remove food, take off back panel, defrost ice with hairdryer and locate thermostat (to the right above coil) remove old thermostat from connectors and replace with new. One connector needs to be spliced cause it does not match. No problem just use old connector and splice and seal with shrink tubing to prevent moisture from connection. In jersey repair guy charges you 100. 00 Bucks to just walk in the door. . . Forget that. Works fine
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freezer would not defrost
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • Robert from Cherokee Village, AR
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
remove ice maker vent and back piece. Unclip defrost thermostat and unplug. Plug new thermostat in and clip to element, reattach back piece, vent and ice maker. Is a tight fit getting icemaker out, there are 3 screws 2 on top and one on bottom.
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GASKET DEFORMED will not set properly, air leakes
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • peter from New Bedford, MA
  • Easy
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Socket set
Watch video. Very helpful, followed instructions went in fairly easy. Gasket deformed, used hair dryer could not get to set straight. WAIST of TIME and MONEY. I wouldn’t recommended buying one of these twisted gaskets, buy a new fridge which is what I’m doing tomorrow.
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Original gasket was torn along the bottom
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • henry from moon, VA
  • Easy
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Removed the slide out bin and then removed the many screws that held the inner panel to the outer insulated door panel. Removed the gasket. Melted the ice and dried the fiberglass perimeter insulation in the door panel. Placed the gasket in position on the door that was lying on the table. Replaced the inner panel screws. Put everyth ing back together.

THERE IS A PROBLEM NOW. THE GASKET DOES NOT MAKE CONTACT ALONG THE TOP EDGE AND AIR LEAKS INTO FREEZER. SIDES AND BOTTOM ARE OK. DO NOT KNOW WHAT TO DO NEXT.
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Door Gasket did not seal properly
2 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Frank from Columbia, MD
  • Really Easy
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Socket set
I sealed the freezer with cardboard and duck tape and kept the door attached (I recycled all the cardboard after I was done). I didn't need to use the hair dryer to remove kinks from the gasket because I couldn't get to the repair for a week and the gasket was in good shape after I took it out of the box.

I almost installed the gasket without removing the plastic door liner (more the twenty small hex screws) but I'm glad I decided to remove it after all. When I removed the plastic liner half of the fiberglass insulation was consumed by a huge block of ice. All these years my freezer had been working harder and wasting more energy than necessary.

I removed all the insulation and replaced it with spray insulation which took longer to allow for the spray foam to cure. The reason I knew what I was doing was because all of you took the time to post your installation experiences. Thank you....

By the way, if you decide to remove the plastic liner for my model, it really helps if someone holds the liner while you attach the first few hex screws. Thank you wife. Also, I'm so glad I had a can of spray insulation in the garage so my wife wouldn't say "how many trips to Home Depot is going to take to finish the job"
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Getting the gaskets to fit under the panel.
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • Arlene from BRIGHTON, MI
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Watched the video you posted with the part and getting the gasket to fit like he did was not as easy as he made it look. Took me a few hours and before I was done the lights went out from a power failure but I was able to finish because the drill was battery operated. I may have saved money doing it myself but not time.
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Super frozen bottom freezer; very warm fridge; evaporator fan motor would work after turning the fan blades manually, but once it stopped it would not come back on on its own.
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • James from WALWORTH, WI
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Socket set
Repaired as others have described - simply component part replacement. However, the fan blade shaft on the replacement motor was slightly smaller in diameter such that once the original fan blade was placed on it and the fan was running, the fan blade slid all the way down on the shaft and made contact with the motor. I had to use duct ta pe to increase the shaft diameter and then put the fan blade on. Running perfectly now.
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Freezer, (bottom unit) frosted/froze up blocking cool air to top fridge. Found timre andc thermostat bad.
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • Gerald from MORRIS, IL
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Used information on internet as to how to check and repair unit. Due to high cost to have repair come to let me know it was broken, being handy with repairs, I took it upon myself to check the timer and therm, ordered the parts from this site , got them within 5 days, took about 40 minutes to use simple tools to remove and replace the timer and therm, used hair dryer to defrost coil unit and turned unit on, lit has been working well since then, about 2 weeks since repair. Saved lots on repair/labor cost and parts cost. Well satisfied, will use this product company again. I WAS AMAZED HOW EASY REPAIR WAS, WIFE HAPPY NOW!
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All Instructions for the KBRS22KF
121 - 135 of 383