Models > KBFS25EVMS00 > Instructions

KBFS25EVMS00 KitchenAid Refrigerator - Instructions

All Instructions for the KBFS25EVMS00
1111 - 1113 of 1113
Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Needed to replace the ice filter
Opened the refrigerator door, pulled down the filter cover, twisted the old one out and removed it. Placed the new one in - twisted it into place, replaced the cover and closed the door. It is working great!!
Parts Used:
Refrigerator Water Filter
  • Charlotte from Texarkana, TX
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Ice Tray would accumulate large masses of ice
After researching the problem (I assumed it was a leaky ice maker), I discovered it could either be the ice maker itself or the water inlet valve. I gambled and tried replacing the water inlet valve since it was the cheaper part. This was very straightforward, however, there is very little slack in the tubing, so don't trim much before re-inserting the tubing back into the valve. Although this did improve the situation it didn't wholly eliminate the problem so I knew I would need to also replace the ice maker. From here on in the instructions apply to the Kitchen Aid model I've listed. I gather that there is some difference between different vendors so my instructions might differ slightly for other vendors. From the old ice maker you will need to scavenge 1) the end cap for the ice maker, 2) the actuator bar 3) a filler tube flange and 4) the wire harness. The new unit doesn't ship with these. Clear out the freezer and disconnect the power, I don't think you want the compressor running full speed the entire time. When you pull open the freezer door you will see it is secured to the slide by four 1/4" nuts/screws. My advice is to loosen (do not remove) these nuts and remove the door altogether, this will give you more room to work. Now reach to the back of the unit and unplug the wire harness from the back wall of the freezer. At the bottom of the unit remove the screw holding the unit to the freezer. At the top of the unit, you will see two screws that secure the ice maker to the wall. Loosen (do not remove) these enough for the ice maker to be moved (up). The push up and remove the ice maker. Now remove the end cap, the actuator bar, the filler tube flange and the other end of the wire harness. Take your new unit and insert these components HOWEVER, a word of warning be sure that the plastic tab on the wire harness pops up into the slot when you insert it into the ice maker, if it doesn't pop up the wire harness may pop out during installation you may have to repeat the installation. You may need a small screwdriver to pull the tab up. Secondly it appears that the ice maker ships in the off position so you must insert the actuator bar in the off (up) position, and put it in the on (down) position after installation. The metal bracket that holds the bottom of the ice maker to the wall might need to be bent to make it fit correctly, so I would suggest dry fitting the unit until the hole in the bracket lines up with the screw hole. Once you've done that, hang the unit on the two top screws, threading the fill tube into the "flange", thread the wire harness around the tube and reconnect it. Tighten the two top screws and then re-insert the bottom screw and tighten all screws/nuts. Hang the door (tighten the screws) and you're done. Space inside the freezer is pretty limited and removing the door was a HUGE time saver, allowing much greater freedom of movement inside the unit. I first tried it with the door on and it was extremely difficult to maneuver.
Parts Used:
Pantry End Cap Kit, LH and RH Dual Water Inlet Valve
  • Constantine from Nashua, NH
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Left door not closing.
Remove one screw from vertical mullion rail, disconnect wire harness. Reverse to install. Pivot block remove two screws and replace. It took longer to retrieve my tools from the garage than to do the job. Tried to purchase these parts locally but it would take 7-10 days to receive. Plus shipping and price was $45.00 more by the time I received these parts. Total cost was $95.57 delivered to my door. Parts were at the door within 24 hrs. I saved on $100.00 - 150.00 sevice call not to mention the $45.00. Plus the time of waiting on parts. I am 56 and retired. I should get into the repair business, what a rip off. The door works better than when the unit was new. Thanks Parts Select
Parts Used:
Vertical Mullion Rail - White Pivot Block
  • David from Tulare, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
All Instructions for the KBFS25EVMS00
1111 - 1113 of 1113