KBFS22 KitchenAid Refrigerator - Instructions

Unplug the electric flat plug from wall. Loosen up 3 mount support screws , Change out unit. Mount Int back onto 3 support screws . Plug in electronic flag plug , It only goes in one way since the plug as a grove on it.

Remove the existing mullion rail:

- Remove the screw from the center hinged cover.
- Remove the mullion rail by pushing upward. The top and bottom hinges slide over tabs attached to the door. I had to bump it gently from underneath.
- Disconnect the three wire connector that's underneath the center hinged cover.
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Install the new mullion rail by reversing the above steps:
- Connect the three wire connector and snap it into its holder.
- Slide the new part over the top and bottom hinges. Be sure that all three hinges are correctly lined up before sliding the rail over the tabs.
- Push it down far enough that the hole for the screw in the center cover is lined up with its corresponding receptacle in the door.
- Replace the screw.

Removed the middle screw and the whole rail came of. Unplugged wires and removed old rail. Plugged in the new rail and slid top and bottom slides on and put on the middle screw. Job finished

Repair was a piece of cake. My only wish would have been a little more informed on a few other parts I could have replaced as well. It obviously would have increased my cost, but would have simplified the install process, and still would have been cheaper then calling a service guide. I would recommend buying and installing the new ga ... Read more skets when doing this. And possibly the steel support bar that goes threw the plastic shelf. Removing that bar was the most difficult task, difficult only that if you used to much force, SNAP!! and then your pissed! and have to start all over.

replaced the poorly designed "duck bill" drain with this P trap. Very simple repair done by accessing through the back of the refrigerator. The video on this website walked me right through the repair. It did however fail to mention that the ice has to be removed from the inside. I had to remove the drawer face and pull outs. Then the ice ... Read more maker and back panel are removed. I used a heat gun and screwdriver to chip and melt the ice build up. If one had the luxury of having another refrigerator to move food in to you could just unplug the unit until the ice melts.

you need to take the deli drawer out, make sure your flat head screw driver is large enough for the head of the screw as screwing into the plastic is a bit difficult. Other than that there are 2 screws and its pretty easy.

We removed the old switch, unplugged it, plugged the new one in and it was easy to do. But when we tried to put the switch back in we had a very hard time doing it. Eventually got it in, but if it had not been for the difficulty we had getting the new switch to snap in to place, it would have taken under 5 minutes.

I pulled off the old gasket and placed the new gasket in the existing groove, shut the door; problem solved!

(1) Slide out appliance and remove power source. (2) Removed lower access cover on rear of refrigerator. (3) Disconnected plug to the condenser fan motor. (4) remove blades by pulling gently forward (5) remove mounting hardware holding the fan motor (3 screws) (6) motor is now free and new motor can be installed

Removed old starter and capacitor as per your website instruction.
Plugged in new parts.
Compresser turned on

It is as easy as is shown in the self-help video. (1) Disconnect the power, (2) Roll the appliance out so you can get to the back, (3) Using a nut driver remove all the screws from the lower back panel then remove the panel, (4) Remove the tensioner wire, (5) unplug the electrical connection to the capacitor, (6) gently but firmly remove ... Read more the capacitor and starter relay as one unit, (7) preassemble your new capacitor and starter relay as one unit, (8) now simply reverse your steps for installing and you are done! These two parts saved me the cost of a new refrigerator. Almost as easy as changing a light bulb. PS: while you have the panel removed you can do a thorough cleaning with a soft brush and vacuum.

I ordered a right & left gasket but when they arrived there was no indication of which was the right or left one...so I just had to guess...I easily lifted the old gasket away from the door & removed. Then starting at the top began inserting the portion that goes into the groove with the help of the table knife, continuing down both sides ... Read more ..then sat on a stool to push the bottom section into place...Had to go back over several areas to reseat but finally closed the door to hopefully set the gasket..Drank some hot tea, then removed the left gasket & began the process all over...The extra flaps ended up on the left side of the door so I may have to remove this side and reposition...I'll check it in a few..then will blow all with a warm setting of the low dryer to continue helping the molding process..

The lining of the ice mold (Whirlpool) started flecking off (black flecks in the ice cubes), so I decided to replace the mold.
Loosen the two 1/4 inch upper nuts and remove the lower nut to remove the ice maker from the freezer. The hardest part was getting it unplugged. I used a small blade screwdriver to release the catch on the c ... Read more onnector and pull it out.
Remove the ice maker front cover. If you have a skinny enough phillips screw driver, there are two deep set screws through two holes on the lower portion of the control module (otherwise, remove the three screws on the controller, unlatch the shut-off arm from the control module, and separate the controller to access the mold screws). Unhook the shut-off wire from the end of the tray. Unscrew the two screws holding the mold and remove the mold.
Remove the plastic hardware from the old mold and install on the new mold.
Attach the new mold on to the control module.
WARNING WARNING WARNING!!! The mold I bought already had the alumilastic on it for the contact point to the thermostat. When I installed it and tightened the screws, the alumilastic was dried out, didn't squash down, and dented the bi-metal thermostat on the controller, ruining it. I had to buy a new thermostat. Be sure to check that the alumilastic is pliable. If not, take it off and buy some fresh to put on there.
Re-install the ice maker. It took a while to get the first batch of ice because the ice maker was at room temperature and I had the freezer door open for several minutes. So the freezer had to get cold and the ice maker had to chill down. Once everything got cold, it started making ice again.

I first removed the door to the freezer (my frig has a bottom freezer) by loosening the 4 screws and lifting the door up and off. Then, because I'm stubborn, I chose not to remove either of the basket/drawers. It took a little bit of effort to fit my arms/hands in there, but I was able to remove the bottom screw to the old icemaker, and ... Read more loosen the two top screws. (And disconnect the wiring harness.) I could then lift the old icemaker up and off. Putting the new icemaker in was pretty easy-- just slide it down over the two top screws and connect the wiring harness. The hardest part was getting the bottom screw back in! Because I didn't remove the baskets/drawers, I had very little room to work, and I had to "feel" for where that bottom screw went (even used a little mirror to help me). I could have just left this screw out, as the icemaker was sitting in there quite securely. But I kept at it, and after about 20 minutes, I was able to line up the screw with the hole, balanced on the tip of the screwdriver, and get it screwed in. Total repair took about 45 minutes. And no more leaky ice maker!

This could have been a 5 minute repair if the shelf frame had included the U shaped metal piece and the front curved snap on decorative piece. I had to break the old frame, slide out the U shaped piece, insert it into the new frame then carefully snap off the decorative curved piece and attach it to the new piece. You would think for $1 ... Read more 00 it would be the complete set. The shelf did not support the weight of the drawers without completing these two additional steps.