KBFS20EVBL8 KitchenAid Refrigerator - Instructions

Turn water and refrigerator off, use hair to thaw the ice maker filler tube, then remove the filler tube inside the freezer. Next remove the water supply line cover plate in back of the refrigerator. Now remove the speed clip at the white pvc elbow and pull out the supply line. Next, grasp the pvc elbow with pliers and pull hard to remove. The new filler tube is a 1 piece design (filler tube and elbow combined) and needs to be cut to the proper length. Mark it inside the freezer, remove it and cut to length. Now coat the outside flange with caulk or PU glue and snap into the opening. Put the speed clip on the elbow first and center it. Ensure that the spreader insert is in place in the plastic tube, then slide the supply line into the elbow untill completely engaged. Replace cover.

This product comes in a bottle with a brush like Liquid Paper. It goes on incredibly easy. A second coat might be needed. I wanted to prevent rust from setting in so I covered the scratches and dings. The paint is a little brighter since my washer is 10 years old but it still looks great.

First, I removed the drawers at the bottom of the fridge and then I removed the three hex head (7/32) screws that hold the end cap on. Then I disengaged the slider which connects to the temperature control for the pantry drawer. Then, unscrewed the drawer slides with a Phillips from the old end cap. Also the slide push rod has to be disengaged from the clips on the back of the endcap.

Then, I reinserted the push rod to the new end cap and reattached the drawer sliders and the slider itself. At this point I realized I SHOULD have unscrewed the temperature slider at the back where it covers the cold air outlet. The screw had slipped out. I replaced it with a slightly larger wood screw. Reinstall the drawers, all done.

Since the crisper didn't come with a front, the old front needed to be removed from the broken cripser and attached to the new one. The easiest way to take off the front is to remove it from the bottom of the crisper. Once the pressure is released it comes off easy. Snap the front on the new crisper by starting with the top and snapping the bottom.

Popped out old gasket and popped in nwe one. This is where things get interersting, the new gasket
Does work as well as the one I replaced. I think the maganet is not strong enough. If anyone has had the same problem please let me know. This model ( Maytag- French door ) has been a lemon.

Freezer would get cold at bottom and some of the refrigerator. Took of freezer back panel and located freezer fan. Took a meter and saw power was getting to it, but not working. Removed fan and replaced with new on, working like a charm. Cold air was not circulating enough throughout the unit because fan was not working. It was not the thermostat or adapter control.

This is the 2nd part I have bought for this refrigerator from Part Select. I wish the parts came with some kind of instruction. I had to re-use parts from the original equipment each time. After studying the replacement part I was able to figure out what I needed to do, but it would have been nice to have a little more information. There were 3 pieces which I needed to remove from the damaged piece and add to the replacement part. I would gladly pay more for a complete replacement part.

Watched Partselect video of P-trap installation.Removed water line & back cover& disconnected wires to water solenoid .Removed old drain tube & old problematic rubber funnel. Used contact cleaner to clean rubber residue from drain line and used a little silicone to aide reassembly. Job went well thanks to video.

changed the starter connected to the compressor

First, I removed the Climate control drawers, the lower shelf pieces and the Chef's Pantry drawer so I had room to work.

Next, I unfastened the two screws that held the pantry drawer gilder on the broken righthand end cap and removed the glider.

With a socket tool, I unfastened the three socket-head mounting screws that held the endcap to the refrigerator wall.

The righthand endcap has a climate control adjustment mechanism which includes a finger slider and an extenson bar snapped to the backside of the endcap. This extension bar connects with another bar mounted to back inside of the refrigerator.

I carefully disconnected the climate control mechanism fixed to the refrigerator from the endcap.

With the endcap out of the refrigerator, I next had to disconnect the climate control slide and extension bar from the broken endcap by unclipping several snaps holding these pieces in place.

Now with the new endcap, I clipped the extension bar in place, snapped the finger silder in place, and reconnected this assembly to the climate control bar in the refrigerator and clipped the mechanism to the rear of the endcap.

The socket mounting screws were used to fasten the endcap to the wall. The pantry drawer glider was attached to the endcap with it's screws. The shelves and climate control drawers were put back. Finally, I carefully snapped the Pantry door to the hinge pins on both the left and the (new) right end caps and put the pantry drawer back.

First and foremost shut off the water supply to the Ice maker. Some recommend unplugging the refrigerator or disabling the circuit breaker to the refrigerator. Then after emptying the freezer remove the freezer door by loosening the four hex head screws and lift the door straight up and set it off to the side.You can then remove the lower basket. Now locate the clamps located at the rear sides of the inner basket and use a small flat blade screwdriver to gently push the tabs toward the outside of the side clamps while pulling up at the same time and releasing the clamp. Now repeat this procedure on the opposite side of the inner basket. The inner basket can then be pulled out being careful to not damage the roller tracts or gear rollers. Three hexhead screws secure the ice maker to the wall. The screw under the ice maker must be removed while the two on top just loosened. The electrical plug is removed by depressing the tabs on the top and bottom of the plug and then pulling outward. Carefully lift the ice maker upward and out from the two upper hex head screws. You can then install the replacement icemaker by reversing the procedure.

Turned the old one to unseat and replaced with a new one in the reverse order.

The repair seemed simple, I just needed to remove the old bracket -- 4 screws -- and slip the new one on.

The tricky bit is that the roller bracket holds the weight of the fridge. So in order to make sure that the fridge did not fall over, and to keep the installation point off the ground so that I could align the screw holes, I needed to shim up the side of the fridge that I was working on.

To tap in the shims, I used a hammer and a spare chunk of wood. I ultimately used 3 shims, and kept tapping until the roller wheel could roll freely. Then I knew that the fridge was high enough. After that, it was pretty easy to remove the 4 screws, align the new bracket, and replace the screws. After that, in order to get the shims out I could just extend the foot brake as it was designed, and that lifted the fridge enough for me to easily slide out the shims. After that I just had to level out the fridge by adjusting the two feet.

Took the new door seal out of the box, layed it out as straight as possible heated it with hair dryer 4 1hour took the old 1 out by hand and replaced it with new one no tools needed 10 min job

tested bulb good ,replaced door switch first(least expensive)then ordered light socket and circuitboard.If clicking sound is heard replace circuitboard first to save on return shipping because the switch and socket where ok