KAWE74 KitchenAid Washer - Instructions
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would not change steps during washing cycle
15 of 20 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Timothy from St. Petersburg, FL
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
1. unplug washer
2. move washer out from wall.
3. remove 4 screws that hold control panel; 2 screws on face and 2 screws an back
4. lift control panel to reach plug for lid switch
and unplug old switch
5. open lid and remove 2 screws that hold lid switch on top opening; remove nut that holds ground wire from lid ... Read more switch
6. remove old lid switch
7. new lid switch needs to be modified to fit in position,i.e. break tube surrounding wires of lid switch to be 1/2 length.
8. plug in new switch at control panel
9. screw in lid switch at lid opening and reattach ground wire.
10. screw control panel in place
2. move washer out from wall.
3. remove 4 screws that hold control panel; 2 screws on face and 2 screws an back
4. lift control panel to reach plug for lid switch
and unplug old switch
5. open lid and remove 2 screws that hold lid switch on top opening; remove nut that holds ground wire from lid ... Read more switch
6. remove old lid switch
7. new lid switch needs to be modified to fit in position,i.e. break tube surrounding wires of lid switch to be 1/2 length.
8. plug in new switch at control panel
9. screw in lid switch at lid opening and reattach ground wire.
10. screw control panel in place
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improper or no hot water flow
16 of 23 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Cynthia from Manchester, MO
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
After taking the entire washer apart one time, we learned that we could take the top and front of the machine off only to repair it. I found Part-select online and with the model number locating the part was easy. It arrived within 3 days and with instructions I could easily replace the old part with a few tools. I spent dollars inst
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ead of hundreds for a new machine.
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Agitator moves freely in both directions
14 of 18 people
found this instruction helpful.
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James from NAPERVILLE, AL
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Wrench set
First I removed the softener bin by pulling it up and off, then I removed the plastic seal by pulling it up and out, then I removed the 1/2 inch bolt with a ratchet and extension, then I removed the upper and lower agitator assembly from the machine and seperated the two by putting my feet on the lower agitator to hold it to the floor and
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pulling the upper agitator fast and firmly.
Sitting on top of the lower agitator I found the dog ear assembly. I pulled the dog ear assembly off and removed the yellow cap and existing dog ears.
Assembly was reverse.
Sitting on top of the lower agitator I found the dog ear assembly. I pulled the dog ear assembly off and removed the yellow cap and existing dog ears.
Assembly was reverse.
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Wash machine, wouldn't spin dry the close. The pump still worked to drain the water.
17 of 27 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Matthew from Albany, MN
- A Bit Difficult
- 1- 2 hours
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
Unplug power from wall.
Disconnected water lines
Tip Unit on it's side. (Recommend turning so motor is to the top side)
Disconnect Electrical connector and Hoses from the pump and motor.
Disconnect metal straps used to retain the motor to the transmission. (screwdriver to pry)
Remove old coupling pieces from trans ... Read more mission/motor(used a long screw driver, rock back and forth)
used air compressor to clean up electric motor
replace new coupling on motor and transmisison (may need hammer to tap into place)
set rubber bushing on transmission side (transmission shaft should be facing up at this point)
replace electric motor into place, making sure to line up bushing and motor mounts.
replace metal strap connectors between transmission / motor (this can be tricky, as the one in the back is hard to get at.)
replace electrical connectors and hoses
connect washing machine power and water and test
Disconnected water lines
Tip Unit on it's side. (Recommend turning so motor is to the top side)
Disconnect Electrical connector and Hoses from the pump and motor.
Disconnect metal straps used to retain the motor to the transmission. (screwdriver to pry)
Remove old coupling pieces from trans ... Read more mission/motor(used a long screw driver, rock back and forth)
used air compressor to clean up electric motor
replace new coupling on motor and transmisison (may need hammer to tap into place)
set rubber bushing on transmission side (transmission shaft should be facing up at this point)
replace electric motor into place, making sure to line up bushing and motor mounts.
replace metal strap connectors between transmission / motor (this can be tricky, as the one in the back is hard to get at.)
replace electrical connectors and hoses
connect washing machine power and water and test
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would not spin properly even with new coupling
16 of 24 people
found this instruction helpful.
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david from o, AL
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Removed capscrew in end of agitator shaft took cover off machine-[ unscrewed two screws holding down control panel, hinged back, pryed retaining clips out, rocked back machine cover.]
Removed motor mounting clips and pump hoses, swinging motor and pump out of the way. Removed 3 capscrews holding transmission, pulled transmission towa ... Read more rds me removing agitator shaft, disassembled clutch assembly - removing one cirlip then another, installed new clucth parts in same order
Removed motor mounting clips and pump hoses, swinging motor and pump out of the way. Removed 3 capscrews holding transmission, pulled transmission towa ... Read more rds me removing agitator shaft, disassembled clutch assembly - removing one cirlip then another, installed new clucth parts in same order
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Washer vibrates excessively on spin cycle
13 of 15 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Glenn from PROVO, UT
- A Bit Difficult
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
I followed the online instructions to remove the shell and attempted to remove the drum, but not having the special wrench to remove the special nut, tried using a screwdriver and hammer, which failed to loosen the nut. I then started examining the the undercarriage and saw that I could replace the springs without removing the tub and di
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d that. In the course of replacing the springs I discovered I could also access the wear pads by lifting the drum off of the undercarriage and placing a block to hold it above the pads. I was able to pop the old pads out by tapping underneath them with a hammer. The new pads were then installed and the weight of the drum popped them in. It was necessary to lift the drum assembly three times for each of the three pads.
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water leaking during run cycle
13 of 15 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
michael from weymouth, MA
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Pliers
flip machine back remove two spring clamps and hoses remove two spring clamps and water pump save $500.+on a new washer
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Will Not Spin
13 of 16 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Daniel from Temple, TX
- A Bit Difficult
- More than 2 hours
-
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
This is a relatively new washer and failed early. My previous whirlpool washer lasted 20 years without any repairs. 1. First inquired about the spin problem in partselect. Machine will not sping unless manualy forced then it will take off but weak. 2. Partselect suggested a clutch problem. Ordered the part that came fast. When I tr
... Read more
ied removing the shaft hub with a hammer and chisel it will not get loose so I opted ordering the special wrench to loosen the tub hub. 3. I put the machine on its back and loosened the pump retaining clips. Do not remove the hoses from the pump. Move the pump away from the motor shaft. Remove the motor electrical connector and set aside. 4. Remove the three bolts holding the gearbox-motor assemply and pull it out of the tub. 5. Put the assembly on a towelwith shaft up and remove the separator washer from the old clutch that is sitting on the gearbox. Then remove the c-retaining clip from the shaft. 6. Pry out the wire retaining clip from the clutch and pull the old clutch out of the shaft. 7. The clutch kit I ordered came with a plastic brake to clutch cam so I replaced it too, just remove the retainig clip from the brake that is at the bottom of the tub and replaced the part. 8. Installed the new clutch and the retaining clips in reverse order. Replace all parts that came with the kit. The new clutch spring was already in place. 9. Put the assembly back into the tub and re-install all the other items in the same order. It spins good now! 10. While replacing parts, methodically clean all the lint from the motor and from under the machine. The gearbox showed signs of leaking oil so its a question of cost. I left it there until it fails then I'll buy a new machine.
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Noisy, clunk at end of spin cycle, spin cycle wobble, leaked
14 of 19 people
found this instruction helpful.
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GREGG from LIVONIA, MI
- A Bit Difficult
- More than 2 hours
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
Followed instructional video, you guys have the best repair videos!
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Scratches in Surface
83 of 227 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Michelle from Richardson, TX
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
This product comes in a bottle with a brush like Liquid Paper. It goes on incredibly easy. A second coat might be needed. I wanted to prevent rust from setting in so I covered the scratches and dings. The paint is a little brighter since my washer is 10 years old but it still looks great.
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Lid Switch failed
13 of 17 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
David from Roanoke, VA
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
I didn't think this would be particularly difficult but it was easier than I expected.
UNPLUG THE MACHINE
Remove the two screws (one on the right , one on the left) That allows the control panel to swing up.
Lift the panel up.
There is a plastic wiring connector that is secured in the top of the washe ... Read more r housing. Press the sides of the top of the connector and remove the top connector. (The bottom part of the connector will still be secured to the housing)
There will be two clamps one on the right side under the control panel, and one on the right.
Use a screwdriver to pop out these clamps. This is where I used the washcloth to place between the screwdriver and the washing machine body to avoid scratching the surface.
Once you pop out these clamps, the housing is free from the tub frame.
Twist the housing just a little and tilt it forward. IT will just slide off the frame.
You can now take the housing wherever you want to more easily get to the switch. It is mounted in the housing.
Take a good look at the way the switch is mounted and the wiring tube is secured because you will need to at least have an idea how to put it back into place.
There will be two clips that hold the wiring tube in place. One on the side and one on the top. Use a screwdriver (and the washcloth if necessary) to loosen and remove the clips.
There are two screws that hold the switch to the housing. Remove these and keep the screws. You will need them to attach the new switch.
Now the only thing keeping you from removing the switch is the connector which you saw earlier before removing the housing. Squeeze the sides of the clip and free it from the housing.
Mount the new switch into the housing and route the wiring. You may have to use a small pair of pliers to squeeze the clips back together to hold the wiring tube to the housing.
Attach the green ground wire to the housing frame just like the one you removed to get the wring tube off the housing.
Push the connector end through the hole designed for it until it snaps into place.
Replacing the Housing back on the frame:
Let the housing all the way down, and slide the front lip of the housing UNDER the front brace of the tub frame.
Carefully let the housing lower onto the side rails (the housing will go on TOP of the side rails).
You may have to gently twist the housing to let it fall into the proper place.
Take the clips and secure the housing back to the tub frame.
These just POP back into place with applied pressure.
Re-connect the lid switch to the control panel wiring connector.
Swing the control panel back down into place and replace the screws on the left and right sides.
PLUG IN THE MACHINE
Viola!! You are ready to perform your favorite laundry task.(Yeah RIGHT!!) Or just yell "HONEY the washing machine is ready for you." Anyway, after the swelling in your eyes go down you will see that your washer is ready to use.
This took me about 40 minutes but some of that time was spent understanding just what to do. With these instructions, you may be able to do it in 30 minutes.
I hope this helps you. Kudos to the Whirlpool Engineers who made this machine easy to work on. This is the 3rd repair I have done on mine. (Rebuilt the agitator drive and replaced the timer) For 18 years of use.. that ain't bad. I think it is good for another 5 years at least. Total cost for this repair: Part=$37, Shipping=$7, Time spent=40 minutes. Not bad considering a serviceman is going to charge $90 labor for the first hour plus parts.
UNPLUG THE MACHINE
Remove the two screws (one on the right , one on the left) That allows the control panel to swing up.
Lift the panel up.
There is a plastic wiring connector that is secured in the top of the washe ... Read more r housing. Press the sides of the top of the connector and remove the top connector. (The bottom part of the connector will still be secured to the housing)
There will be two clamps one on the right side under the control panel, and one on the right.
Use a screwdriver to pop out these clamps. This is where I used the washcloth to place between the screwdriver and the washing machine body to avoid scratching the surface.
Once you pop out these clamps, the housing is free from the tub frame.
Twist the housing just a little and tilt it forward. IT will just slide off the frame.
You can now take the housing wherever you want to more easily get to the switch. It is mounted in the housing.
Take a good look at the way the switch is mounted and the wiring tube is secured because you will need to at least have an idea how to put it back into place.
There will be two clips that hold the wiring tube in place. One on the side and one on the top. Use a screwdriver (and the washcloth if necessary) to loosen and remove the clips.
There are two screws that hold the switch to the housing. Remove these and keep the screws. You will need them to attach the new switch.
Now the only thing keeping you from removing the switch is the connector which you saw earlier before removing the housing. Squeeze the sides of the clip and free it from the housing.
Mount the new switch into the housing and route the wiring. You may have to use a small pair of pliers to squeeze the clips back together to hold the wiring tube to the housing.
Attach the green ground wire to the housing frame just like the one you removed to get the wring tube off the housing.
Push the connector end through the hole designed for it until it snaps into place.
Replacing the Housing back on the frame:
Let the housing all the way down, and slide the front lip of the housing UNDER the front brace of the tub frame.
Carefully let the housing lower onto the side rails (the housing will go on TOP of the side rails).
You may have to gently twist the housing to let it fall into the proper place.
Take the clips and secure the housing back to the tub frame.
These just POP back into place with applied pressure.
Re-connect the lid switch to the control panel wiring connector.
Swing the control panel back down into place and replace the screws on the left and right sides.
PLUG IN THE MACHINE
Viola!! You are ready to perform your favorite laundry task.(Yeah RIGHT!!) Or just yell "HONEY the washing machine is ready for you." Anyway, after the swelling in your eyes go down you will see that your washer is ready to use.
This took me about 40 minutes but some of that time was spent understanding just what to do. With these instructions, you may be able to do it in 30 minutes.
I hope this helps you. Kudos to the Whirlpool Engineers who made this machine easy to work on. This is the 3rd repair I have done on mine. (Rebuilt the agitator drive and replaced the timer) For 18 years of use.. that ain't bad. I think it is good for another 5 years at least. Total cost for this repair: Part=$37, Shipping=$7, Time spent=40 minutes. Not bad considering a serviceman is going to charge $90 labor for the first hour plus parts.
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The Dryer stopped working completely.
13 of 18 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
Elyse from Chicago, IL
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
I looked up the procedure to remove the switch in a repair book, removed the broken switch. Then I reconnected the wire leads, put the part in and closed everything up. The part arrived so quickly and there were even instructions with the part which made the repair go so easily.
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Pump but not spin-oil leaking-agitation noise
11 of 12 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
Alvaro from CLEMENTON, NJ
- A Bit Difficult
- More than 2 hours
-
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Replaced AGITATOR DIRECTIONAL COGS (4) looking instruction video . Replaced CLUTCH LINING KIT following video of this site "WASHER REPAIR-REPLACING THE CLUTCH ASSEMBLY". Replaced SEAL, GEARCASE COVER and NEUTRAL DRIVE ASSEMBLY as follow: 1)CLUTCH Assembly and motor removed, took the GEARCASE on a bench vise to hold in place and the lo
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ng shaft up side. You can get help from other person to hold secured in place instead a vise.2)Following a youtube video I tested gearcase with a reversible drill using DIRECT DRIVE MOTOR COUPLING PART next To transmission side instead of electrical motor. Drill turning counter clockwise drive the long shaft oscillating (it agitate via agitator cogs). Drill turning clockwise run the exterior sleeved part around shaft (upper side of metal gear inside gearcase and fixed on top to clutch to get washer spin). My experience was didn't rotate so we had to take apart gearcase cover.3)Unscrewed and removed gearcase cover. Cover was sticked by old seal gasket so a screwdriver helped me to remove it.4)Cleaned joint removing old gasket.5)Repeating drill test I realized big nylon gear did'nt rotated and removed uppercut clip with pin pliers with care for not lose the pin. Removed the next washer, the plastic gear and found a plastic part with a tooth broken. This part is with NEUTRAL DRAIN ASSEMBLY so replaced assembly following part instructions. I recommend take pictures in order to reassemling and use ALLEN WRENCH 5/32'' inches.6)Fill up to half of gearcase with 16 ounces (about 1/2 of case) of gear oil supplied by PARTSELECT or automotive gear oil SAE 85w90 or SAE 90.7)Replaced SEAL, GEARCASE COVER. HARD TO REMOVED AND REPLACE! Take care not break!. I had to use a piece of metal tube and a vise.8)Applied automotrice black seal gasket silicone around the cover joint and case.9) Replaced the cover and reversal instruction video.THANKS to this site I get excellent service and Enjoyed with my toy.
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Plastic holding the Lid Switch screws broke
11 of 13 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
Ronald from North Brunswick, NJ
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
Removed the 2 screws holding the control panel.
Tilt the control panel back to expose the spring clips.
Disconnected the Lid Switch Harness plug from the control panel.
Pry out the 2 spring clips, each located on either side of the top of the cabinet.
Openned top lid, placed one hand into the lid openning and pulled th ... Read more e cabinet forward.
Disconnected ground wire. Installed new switch while cabinet was off. Reconnected Harness connector after re-installing the cabinet.
Tilt the control panel back to expose the spring clips.
Disconnected the Lid Switch Harness plug from the control panel.
Pry out the 2 spring clips, each located on either side of the top of the cabinet.
Openned top lid, placed one hand into the lid openning and pulled th ... Read more e cabinet forward.
Disconnected ground wire. Installed new switch while cabinet was off. Reconnected Harness connector after re-installing the cabinet.
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Washer was leaking.. determined it was center gasket
10 of 10 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
Diane from BALTIMORE, MD
- Very Difficult
- More than 2 hours
-
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
Completely dismantled washer per video , replaced gasket and spanner nut, then re-assembled washer. I’m a 58 year old female. It was tough. Main issue was that video was for dif. Model washer. Had to figure out some things myself.
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