JVM7195DF1WW General Electric Microwave - Instructions

I replaced the switch at the bottom per instruction. I had both switches. I think it was the monitor door switch.It works fine now. Thank you Part Select .

Took the front panel off, played with the switch while it was plugged in to verify the switch was bad. I actually was able to tweak the switch just right to keep the microwave working while the part was being delivered. When it came it was just removing two small screws and replacing. Very easy.

Use a small screwdriver to depress the flexible clip on the side of the old holder while you wiggle it out of its hole. Gently hammer down the edges of the hole so that the surface is flat. This will make for a tighter fit when you snap the new holder into the hole. Just slide the new piece into position and the job is done.

Per instructions on part select.com website. But needs further repair because still doesn't heat food and pad is partially disabled.

UNPLUG MIRCOWAVE.REMOVE THE HARDWARE, COVERS, AND DECONNECT THE CONTROL PANEL. REMOVE AND REPLACE VENT THERMOSTAT. REINSTALL EVERTHING IN REVERS ORDER. WORK FINE NOW. ADVISE IF YOUR FIRST TIME GET INSTRUCTIONS ON INTERNET SEARCH OR YOU TUBE

I took the cover off, and replaced the glass-- the difficult part, was ordering the glass..on the list of parts to order-- the description of the glass was mis-leading

The new turntable shipment was super fast!!! I received it only a few days after ordering it. Installation was nothing more than placing it in the microwave oven.

GREAT Transaction!!! Thanjs!!!

Open the box that the part came in and place it in the microwave. The best is how fast it came to my home. Thanks

just set the glass turntable in and bingo it worked
no tools needed. thanks for such a fast delivery
sincerly dennis and chris delbello

I thought the thermal cutoff was out, ordered a new one. Turns out the TCO I was looking at was normally-open, and closes if overheated. My advice: No matter what your microwave is doing, start with a full inspection of each of the door switches. I did a continuity test, which initially passed; after replacing TCO didn't fix it, I foun ... Read more d that one of hte door switches was intermittent - it had failed mechanically, would appear closed if jostled just right. After replacing that door switch the problem was fixed. Next time I'll start with the door switches - they're the easiest part to find, coulda gotten it locally - is most likely to fix the prob, and if not at least you've ruled them out for future troubleshooting.

Unscrewed numerous screws holding the "body/shell" to the microwave. Removed body. I then unplugged top door switch, replaced it with new one, and "tested" the new one. I fixed our $400 convection micro with an $18 switch. NICE!

I took the cabinet off and saw where the switch had been burnt. So I remove it and order another one from your company. And I put new clips on it with heat shrinks. We might get another 30 years out it, Although I'm 80 years old.

I purchased the fuse and 3 door switches from PartSelect. Replaced the fuse first but that did not solve the problem. Then I replaced the 3 door switches and problem solved!! So fuse only cost $5.00 so glad I have a new fuse in there as well. To see how to replace door switches see videos on utube!!

If confused just go to YouTube. They can show you how to fix anything. Very simple replacement for both charcoal and regular filter. A snap.

GE slate microwave approximately 2 years old. Completely dead. Power to outlet was good, no gfci was tripped. Started checking fuses, 250v ceramic fuse good, two fuses at the bottom behind the control panel. One on the left labeled 12 on the diagram tested no continuity. One on the right labeled 13 tested good with continuity. So i figure ... Read more d number 12 was bad. Got the part and turns out to be the wrong fuse. Part number was the same but the terminals were the wrong size. Im pretty sure GE has the diagram labeled wrong because i ordered number 13 and it was the right size. Just an FYI if you are ordering those fuses for your microwave that 12 and 13 on the diagram may be reversed. Anyway received the right fuse and tested the new fuse and it tests open continuity and did not fix my issue. Microwave is still dead. There are two other fuses in the back that i need to check so hopefully i find the issue. Hope this helps someone, remember one fuse behind the control panel tests open and the other tests closed and thats how it is suppose to function.