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JVM1190SYC01 General Electric Microwave - Overview

Diagrams for JVM1190SYC01

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Light Bulb - 40W 130V – Part Number: WB36X10003
$23.60
In Stock
Light Bulb - 40W 130V
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Part #WB36X10003
This light bulb is a 40 watt, 130-volt clear appliance light bulb that is manufactured to fit microwaves with small-base light bulb sockets. The light bulb illuminates the inside of the microwave while the microwave is running. You may need to replace this part if the existing one is burnt-out or broken. If the existing light bulb is broken, disconnect power to the microwave and remove the bulb base with a pair of needle nose pliers. This is a common wear item, so it is recommended to order a spare. These light bulbs are sold individually.
Secondary Door Switch – Part Number: WB24X829
$47.40
In Stock
Secondary Door Switch
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Part #WB24X829
The secondary door switch is a simple on/off mechanism that stops the microwave from operating when the door is open (normally opened). The switch monitors the door latch position, and communicates whether the door is open or closed to the electrical control board. This door switch is approximately 1 inch long, and has 2 metal prongs called terminals that extend out of its body. Common symptoms related to a faulty secondary door switch include: microwave will not turn/shut off, or the microwave will not heat properly. NOTE: Before you begin this repair, first make sure your microwave is unplugged, and that your capacitor is discharged. A capacitor stores large amounts of electricity even when your microwave is unplugged.
Monitor Door Switch – Part Number: WB24X830
$48.45
In Stock
Monitor Door Switch
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Part #WB24X830
Unplug your microwave before attempting this repair. You will need to remove the grill, which is held into place by two screws at the top of the grill (open your microwave door before doing this). Remove the grill. Remove the screw on the left holding the control panel in place. Loosen the screw behind the panel. You should now be able to lift the panel up and pull forward to detach. You will find the door switch by removing the screws to detach the switch assembly. Press on the release tab to remove the middle switch. Disconnect the wire connector to release the old switch. The door switch is normally closed.
Grease Filter – Part Number: WB6X60
$56.33
In Stock
Grille Screw – Part Number: WB01X10062
No Longer Available
Thermal Fuse – Part Number: WB27X1127
$54.24
In Stock
Ceramic Fuse - 15 Amp – Part Number: WB27X7
$21.45
In Stock
Ceramic Fuse - 15 Amp
Part #WB27X7
High Voltage Diode – Part Number: WB27X1160
$97.20
In Stock
High Voltage Diode
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Part #WB27X1160
This diode has a 1/4" female connection and an eyelet.
Charcoal Filter – Part Number: WB2X4267
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Charcoal Filter
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Part #WB2X4267
This filter is used on over-the-range units that are not vented to the outside. These are also sold individually.
Rack Spacer – Part Number: WB4X174
$17.15
Special Order
Rack Spacer
Part #WB4X174
Ceramic Tray -  White – Part Number: WB39X75
No Longer Available
Ceramic Tray - White
Part #WB39X75
High-Voltage Capacitor - 2100V – Part Number: WB27X10240
$100.27
In Stock
High-Voltage Capacitor - 2100V
Part #WB27X10240
Introducing the GE High-Voltage Capacitor, designed for microwaves. This cutting-edge component operates at a potent 2100V and a capacity of 0.86 micro, embodying both performance and power. As an essential electronic device, this capacitor holds a substantial electrical charge within the high-voltage circuit of your microwave. With utmost importance to safety, it is advised that a professional service technician performs the installation of this component as it can potentially retain a lethal electrical charge even when the microwave is unplugged. Trust in the quality and dependability of GE for your appliance repair needs. Embrace the efficiency of this 2100V/0.86 micro high-voltage capacitor, and let it enhance the functionality of your microwave.

Common Symptoms of the JVM1190SYC01

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light worked, timer and control pad worked, but no turntable, no heat, no noises of any sort, just didn't start up
320 of 387 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Marla from Arlington, TX
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Noted on partselect.com that someone else with this problem, found it to be secondary door switch. There are three door switches in this model, but online info noted that one of the three might feel "soft" (in my case, one switch clicked in a rather "jiggly" way, the other two were strong decisive clicks.) To access the door switches on this model was the only difficult part. First use a torx bit to remove the two torx screws below the latches inside the microwave. This frees the latching part inside, that holds the door switches, which you will remove after you take off the control panel. The top grill has to come off before you can remove the door panel. Remove the screws above the grill, on the microwave top cover, The grill on this model is covered with a panel that moves out when it vents. After removing the two top screws, the covered grill vent slides left to remove. Be careful, as the sliding tabs are plastic. Wiggle and jiggle it, to slip it off. Below the removed grill, is a small metal grill with one screw in lower center. Remove that screw, and wiggle that out. You'll then see the one screw that holds on the control panel. Remove this screw, and lift the control panel up to remove. Again, go slowly and gently, as the bottom tabs holding the control panel in, are also plastic and easily broken. Lay the control panel on something, (I used the coffee maker) and pull out the wire bundles tucked on the left, that are attached to the latching panel. Wiggle the latching panel gently to lift it up off of it's plastic tabs and pull it out towards you, so you can see the three door switches. Each switch (part number WB24X829) has a little black switch on it. Feel each switch with either your finger, or a screwdriver to see which one doesn't "click" strongly. The weak one is the one you will replace. The door switches are fitted into a tab, and plugged into their wires. Remove the defective switch, pull out the wires, and replace it with the new switch, plugging back the wires, and slipping it back into it's plastic tabs. Then put everything back together in reverse order. The entire job took me fifteen minutes EXCEPT for figuring out how to slide off the upper grill, which I have told you. A repairman would have cost $150, the part was $18. AND, there's a good chance, the other two switches will get "used up" in the next year or so as well, so I'll be ready next time. Thank you, Partselect, why work all day, to make money, only to give it to somebody else, for fifteen minutes of work. All I needed was the knowledge.
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bulb had broken off in base that was still screwed into socket
93 of 109 people found this instruction helpful.
  • william from san antonio, TX
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
At first I tried to use pliers to unscrew the base,very uncomfortable working position,upside down and backwards(the microwave is installed over the range top)very limited space for your body and arms to manuver and you really cant see the base,all of this took place after the breaker was turned off ofcourse,finally figured out that you c an drop the entire bottom housing of the microwave by unscrewing 6 screws and the light sockets are easily accessable once you lower it,take out 1 retaining screw ,remove the entire socket and unscrewed the broken base and replaced the bulbs,I said bulbs,there is no sense in having to replace another bulb in who knows how long since only one had burned out but they were both the same age
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Microwave Fan Turned on When Door Was Opened
51 of 64 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Bishop from Coupland, TX
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
To get to the switches you need to remove the metal cover/housing of the microwave, by first removing several screws that hold it in place, and then sliding the cover towards the back of the unit. You'll find the switches in some plastic holders above the door-open button, and it's its easy to see how the mechanism engages/disengages the switches when the door is opened and closed.

If it is not obvious which switch is bad, in our case the bad switch felt "soft" when we pressed the switch button with our fingers. A good switch has a firm "click" when pressed.

The switches are easy to replace - pop out the old switch (no tools required) and pull off the electrical connectors. Then pop in the new switch and reattach the connectors.
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